How much is this bolt going to cost me?!?

[Henny 0]

AARRGGHH!! Can my luck get any worse?!? :cry:

 

After having the front lights and grill of my G60 smashed by a hit and run in a carpark, and then having the fan motor pack in causing the engine to overheat and take out the head gasket costing me £360 for a hire car and £1500+ in bits (inc. a flow'd and ported head! :lol: ) I have had another bit of bad luck that I need your help with...

 

The bolt that holds the cambelt sprocket onto the crank has sheared off on the way home tonight... (see pic.) This was at 20MPH in traffic at about 1500rpm... :shock:

This has resulted in the crank-charger belt pulley, crank P/S belt pulley and sprocket coming off in one lump and the cam-belt also becoming slack meaning that the crank has been turning while the cam was stationary... :shock: :?

 

I need 2 pieces of information...

 

1) Does anyone know, FOR CERTAIN, if the valves on a standard G60 (PG engine) do or do not hit the pistons when a cam-belt snaps. (I really hope not, I've not yet bedded in the new flow'd head fully yet... :cry: )

 

2) How the hell do you get a snapped crank bolt out of the crank?!? :(

 

Please help... It's starting to look like this may be the end of the road for this engine's internals and I may have to spend £2K+ on building something a bit more interesting somewhat sooner than I planned :? on... :roll:

[Majik 0]

Erm, the engine is classed as an 'interference engine' which means that valve damage is likely to occur with timing failure, however if you were doing 20 mph, then i guess your revs were fairly low, unless you were in 1st/2nd!

The head will most probably have to come off, and if your lucky only one or two valve may be bent.

Could ber worse, could be a high speed cambelt failure on a 16v :lol:

[Henny 0]

Erm, the engine is classed as an 'interference engine' which means that valve damage is likely to occur with timing failure, however if you were doing 20 mph, then i guess your revs were fairly low, unless you were in 1st/2nd!

The head will most probably have to come off, and if your lucky only one or two valve may be bent.

Could ber worse, could be a high speed cambelt failure on a 16v :lol:

 

Drat... I had a feeling as much... :roll: I was in 3rd at the time, but I tried to start it again a couple of times after she stalled so could have done lots of damage then... :?

 

The head's only been back on for a week and a half... :cry:

[Majik 0]

i doubt you can do anymore damage by trying to start it, had a cambelt failure (caused by tensioner) on my 205 gti at a similar speed, only one valve was damaged luckily

[steveo29 0]

i dunno how you get the bolt out...try asking on the g60 forum on vw vortex.com...ive seenit mentioned on there before

[Jim R 0]

Had a cambelt tensioner sieze on my 16V a few years ago, I was idling in traffic too!. Had the head rebuilt (2 bent valves) and refitted only to find that the contact between valves and pistons had caused some damage to the big ends, something you may have to look out for, the engine died a few miles later (symptoms were a knocking noise which got worse then seized). Fitted a new engine, kept the old one, may take it to bits for spares, the head had only done about 150miles after the rebuild so will come in handy eventually!!!

[scottgroovez 0]

I've seen this crop on a couple of occasions, should this bolt be replaced after xxxx miles/x years?

[stevemac 0]

1) Does anyone know, FOR CERTAIN, if the valves on a standard G60 (PG engine) do or do not hit the pistons when a cam-belt snaps. (I really hope not, I've not yet bedded in the new flow'd head fully yet... :cry: )

 

I've spoken to a friend with extensive VW experience - he says that the G60 will USUALLY only wipe out some of the hydraulic lifters - your valves SHOULD be okay. YES your valves MAY catch the pistons but the weakness is in the hydraulic lifters & not the valves. I changed the cambelt on my G60 a few weeks ago and turned the crank over 3 times with no damage whatsoever to the valves or lifters. Compression test may be a good idea.

 

2) How the hell do you get a snapped crank bolt out of the crank?!? :(

 

Depending on the hardness of the bolt, you may be able to drill down the centre of the bolt & hammer a multi-splined allen key into the hole. This should then just unscrew. The remaining section of the bolt in your crank should be loose and SHOULD come out fairly easily.