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andiG60

16v very ill PLEASE HELP

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Hi all. Slight problem with my 93 2l valver. Starts on the key fine, idels perfectly for about 45 seconds and then all hell breaks loose in the engine :cry: :cry: the car is backfiring, it sounds like a shotgun from the exhaust wont rev above 2k and the engine looks like it will break the mounts??? :( any advice??? its totally standard bar exhaust. i have given it a good bit of wd40 because i thought i was damp due to heavy rain, done cap arm leads coil etc. got the AA out, the guy used to work for VW and told me he is stumped????

 

anyone????

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monster airleak? Check all the induction pipes. I don't like WD sprayed everywhere. Clean it all off so the leads, cap etc are dry.

 

Gavin

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wd coming off. i have checked the pipes, as best as i could anyway, what i couldnot work out was why it would run, or not as the case may be, after starting up perfectly, and then just go undrivable. weird

 

thanks gavin

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Could be a failing fuel pump maybe but best to start with the cheap stuff.

 

Listen for airleaks is maybe the best option.

 

Does it start readily each time you try or does it run once, play up and then stay broken for a while?

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i think the pump is ok, priming up nicely each time, i will check the pressure tomorrow, how many bar should it be for a valver?. it does playup if i turn off and immediatly start up again, ok for a few seconds and then crap???

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Throttle switches can cause problems too. Listen for them clicking as you open and close the throttle from unser the bonnet.

 

Gavin

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Another one to check could be the lambda probe and its associated wiring? Remeber Erics G60 when it had an iffy lambda and a faulty one of those can produce some spectacular effects.. rough rough idle, black smoke, spluttering engine, total lack of power...

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VAGCOM can't do much on the 9A IIRC.

 

One is for wide open throttle, the other for a closed throttle.

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i dont know if it makes a difference, but when the car is running bad and backfiring, the black air intake from above the filter to the throttle body expands? i assume this the backfire? right or wrong? should this happen

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That shouldn't happen normally. I wonder if the cam timing is out or maybe the bottom pulley has moved??

 

The pulley bolts are dodgy on all 4 cylinder VWs of this era.

 

Maybe you should start from scratch and check the physical timing of teh crank and cams.

 

Gavin

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Hey up

 

I noticed you said its standard bar the exhaust, my mate had an RS turbo and put a massive exhaust on, it ran closer to the fuel lines and as soon as it got warm caused the engine to run crap. Worth a check??

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Another one to check could be the lambda probe and its associated wiring? Remeber Erics G60 when it had an iffy lambda and a faulty one of those can produce some spectacular effects.. rough rough idle, black smoke, spluttering engine, total lack of power...

 

my old valver had the exact same symptoms, starting ok then all hell breaking loose, and it was an issue with the lamda probe from when the exhaust had been replaced.... might be worth a try, took the VAG specialist garage I took mine too hours to figure out thats what it was... they tried a new lambda and it was fine!!!

 

good luck!

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cheers valver, will check it before i take it into a garage, i was going down the line of dodgy dizzy, but after checking it it was fine. im on the case.

thanks again

andi

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sorry for the delay in reply. it only happens from cold as the car does no have time to warm up. literaly, a minuite or two from running and ideling perfectly to backfiring and spluttering and the engine rocking back and forth :cry:

 

very strange

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I had similar probs with mine.It ran like a bag of spanners and i tried everything.Got it put on a machine to check it and it turned out to be the lambda.Changed it and it was fine.

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mine also did this.. change the coil pack and the king lead... it turned out my coil was earthing out and breaking down and failing.. causing loads of airbox popping action, misfiring and general engine armegeddon.. the other problem mine had was a knacked hall sender... take the dizzy cap off and look for debris... and oil deposits.... the seal goes on the back of the dizzy and it just coats the hall sender in the dizzy with oil and crap.. also check the 3 wire connection to the dizzy, this is prone to getting all mucky etc.... but the fact the car runs for 45 odd secs sounds like its the coil.. as it breaks down when it gets warm, as its earthing out... so go to it! :wink:

 

 

and if your anywhere near brighton and want a hand... or ideas etc... let me know!

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cheers mr dog. if the lamba dont work i wil check coil pack next, to be honest with you, i hadnt even thought about that. i checked the dizzy first of all and bypassed to check for no spark or spark and i was fine, doesnt mean to say that i dont have a indifferent hall sender mind you, thanks for the advice

andi

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If you have a distributor you also have a bog-standard (and cheap) coil...not a coilpack. I thought I'd just make that clear before you went off and spent £130 on a coilpack you don't have!

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