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catch_twotwo

Another cold start problem

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Well I was hoping some things we did yesterday at G-werks would solve this, but today same problem.

 

Basically, when cold (as in left overnight) the car takes 3/4 tries to get ir going. Sometimes it'll start and then die straight away. It makes no difference if you give it some gas... as this tend to make it stall quicker if anything.

 

So had the ISV cleaned a few weeks back and seemed to fix the problem for a week.... but this could just be a red herring.

 

So tonight I tested the hall sender. With the ignition on I got nothing from pins 1 & 3 on the voltmeter.... but the car refused to start with this off. So it must be working. Gonna recheck this later.... I also checked my blue temp sender and was getting 600 ohms. The black temp sender though (new from GSF yesterday) was sending 1400 ohms. Is this difference right or should they send the same :?:

 

So, any thoughts on what this could be..... The cars fine except for this little niggling problem....

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Ok... just an extra bit of info.. but when it's warmed up it runs like a dream. When cold though the above starting problem occurs, and sometimes I get it reving high and then dropping down when I'm at the lights. Rather annoying as everybody things I'm a boy racer.....

 

Also on starting it just now it started second time (car was used a few hours ago so not really cold) but whenever you pushed the accelerator to get it to rev it almost cut out totally (this was out of gear)

 

Problem with the fuel pump maybe :?: how can I check this....

 

Also to anybody who's checked their hall sender before. Can you explain the process as I can't get a thing out of it on my multimeter on ACV or DCV.

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Well the Bentley manual says you can test with a voltmeter across pins 1/3.. although it mentions removing the "power output stage harness connector"

 

I can't seem to see this though... which is a problem. Unless it's the rubber seal around the plug, but that seems a little odd.

 

Did some tests on the ISV and blue temp sender just now.

 

If you unplug the ISV and start the car it idles very low (about 500rpm) the same if I remove the blue temp sender when the cars at idle....

 

So I guess both of these are working fine.....

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BTTT

 

Please... any suggestions. I'm worried that if it's having problems at 3 degrees, it might not even want to start at -13 degrees (Austria Temp this past weekend)

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I've got the same problem with my 1.8 16v, can't work it out at all. It started on FRIDAY 13TH!! and has been a pain in the arse ever since.

 

It runs sweet once its started, or from warm, but coughs on first turn of key from cold and then is reluctant on 2nd go. If I hold key for 30 secs and pump pedal it eventually fires. I'm going to try new fuel filter and if no luck a new fuel pump.

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swap the blue and black plugs on the temp sensors in to top hose. i know you may think they are working but i had all sorts of issues with starting mine form cold, changed the sensor and she started easy

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i had and still have the same problem, i even had to get RAC out few times due to its dying on my at random places!

 

He took the air intake pipe off the throttle body and opened the butterflys and then gave it a good clean, removed loads of black crap!

 

Altho i've also been thinking maybe its something to do with the fuel pump, i had the filter done and hasnt made any difference.

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Please, I'm getting deserate now. It took me 10 minutes to get her to fire up this morning and it seems the colder it is the worse it gets. So at -13 I'll have a nice big paperweight as it'll never start.

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Ok, trying to source an urgent ISV replacement as this could be the culprit....

 

Any views on removing the ISV alltogether till I can get one and fit it :?: any benefit in solving my problem. I tried disconencting the ISV's wiring and the car didn't want to start anyway, so this makes me think that removing it might not help at all.

 

Opinions :?: :?: :?:

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