STORM 2 0 Posted April 7, 2006 its taken me six hours to get halfway through the nearside 1.nightmare getting the caliper carrier off (usual) -what kind of pleb decides to use a hex allen socket bolt to fix something that is bound to seize within weeks? In the end the Irwin bolt grippers did a fine job - They are rapidly becoming my favourite bit of kit 2.wheel bearing issues - had to use a hell of a force to get the front and rear bearings into the disc - just hope I havent damaged them -heyho 3.ABS cage- damned if I had a clue I needed these - so I just whacked the old one off and stuck it on to the new disc (asking for problems later) 3. MK4 calipers - job arrested here - caliper piston would only wind in a certain distance so tried winding it out first - but it easily popped out the piston. NOW I CANT GET THE BLOODY PISTON BACK IN! Admittedly I dont have the caliper winding tool and was trying to do the job on the cheap buy using pliers. Why wont the caliper piston thread back into the housing?? 4. given up with the hope of popping down to GSF tomorrow and getting the proper tool to see if that helps. will keep the forum updated - I know this is on the list of a few of you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 7, 2006 The tool is cheap and you'll need it in the future, the 'haynes' method is only really viable on brand new calipers... when setting up the calipers make sure you have as little play as posible between the pads and discs, this seems to be crucial for brake pedal feel even tho the calipers should self adjust... I wouold buy new ABS cages and carrier bolts too if you can... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davebirl 0 Posted April 7, 2006 I cleaned my ABS cages with a wire brush and they came up like new. All they do is give a magnet a signal..........right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted April 7, 2006 i popped a piston out on mine....right job to get back in, id suggest you buy the tool , it needs to to turn and push in..maybe crack the nipple open abs cage should be okay as long as you didnt bend it too much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted April 7, 2006 You can get the brake winding tool from either Halfords or GSF for around £15. ABS cages can be re used, and as davebirl says - they just pass through a magnet to give it a signal. but if you bend them then the ABS light will come on and you'll have to fit new ones. They're only a couple of quid each, so could be worth doing - it's just a matter of how far you want to take things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted April 8, 2006 right - an update got everything on but the usual problem of slack pedal and slack handbrake bled the two new rear calipers until there was no bubbles but still very little pedal pressure when i drove the car I heard a grinding/rattling from the rear nearside and I think the ABS cage has come loose (this one wasn't replaced new) Im off to get a new ABS cage and Im going to adjust the handbrake cable at the front end. I've also bought an easibleed kit from Halfrauds to rebleed the system. Anthing I'm missing? I hope I get it sorted today cos Ive gotta get up to the rolling road tomorrow!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted April 8, 2006 i had to bled mine alot to get a decent pedal, and i also changed to mk4 pads and they made it better due to the fact theyre wider Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted April 8, 2006 i had to bled mine alot to get a decent pedal, and i also changed to mk4 pads and they made it better due to the fact theyre wider Im using MK4 pads, just gotta get bleeding UPDATE: used Easibleed system to bleed all four calipers in sequence as well as getting a new ABS rotor sensor for the nearside rear. ABS and noise problem seems to be resolved but I'm not impressed with the brake pedal feel. The bleeding seemed to only trickle out brake fluid when its meant to be a pressure bleeding system. Should I have bled the system with the ignition on? What else can be done - do I need to bleed the master cylinder/reservoir? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 8, 2006 If you let the master cylinder resevoir run empty during the bleeding you will have to bleed the whole lot. It's definitely why the pedal is cr@p, you still have air in the system. On the side of the MC there should be a nipple, connect the easibleed to that and blast the fluid through and keep the resevior full at all times. Best to do it with the engine running. The easibleed is quite low pressure, you can't use more than 20psi, so make sure the wheel you're using is deflated to that pressure. It can take ages to get all the air out, so keep at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted April 8, 2006 cheers Kev I think I'll be OK to get up to Stealth tomorrow - and have a go at the MC next week Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 10, 2006 also make sure that the car is on it's wheels when bleeding the rear wheels as the brake compensator will mean that air can get trapped in the line if the car's weight isn't on the rear wheels as normal... ;) Stick it up on a path, or on ramps so that the compensator isn't fully closed as it would be with the wheels up in the air. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PeterMunns 0 Posted April 10, 2006 Henny, Good point...!!! Just got my self some rear Mk4 calipers. STORM 2, If still no joy with the pedel feel try unbolting the calipers so the bleed niple is as low as poss. then get a mate to pump the brake with the easy bleed thingy you got. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted April 10, 2006 oh another tip....c&r suggested i put ptfe tape on the nipple threads, theyre designed to be loose threads cus there was siezing probs..the loose threads let air in when bleeding Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davebirl 0 Posted March 22, 2009 can someone confirm a part number for the MK4 calipers i need to do this on my VR6 Corrado? And do I need a longer handbrake cable? What new brake lines do i need? Good ridge part number? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IG88 0 Posted March 22, 2009 can someone confirm a part number for the MK4 calipers i need to do this on my VR6 Corrado? And do I need a longer handbrake cable? What new brake lines do i need? Good ridge part number? Thank you! There's some useful info in here mate: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=72885 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted March 22, 2009 calipers- 1jo615423 1jo615424 handbrake cables are corrado -1HO609712E you need new hoses, goodridge do them -SVW0506-2P its meant for a mkii conversion to mk4 i did mine last month, good luck there is a thread on here by 3CORSAMEAL very informative Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites