bristolbaron 10 Posted April 20, 2006 I've had a problem over the last week with my car idling badly. its sitting between 1500-2000rpm when cold, and when the cars running [say dropping down from 5000rpm] the revs drop very slowly. A mate thought it may be down to the ISV and cleaned it through, but it hadn't helped. With the plug on the left hand side of the ISV unplugged, the idle is fine. I took it to a 'VW specialist' today, who charged me £30 to tell me he thinks its the microswitch on the throttle body. Ive checked with VW today, and a new switch costs £82+ vat. im reluctant to buy a new one, as im still not sure that this is the cause of the problem. Does anyone know if theyre available cheaper elsewhere? I've thought about getting a 2nd hand one [i understand they're a common fitment] but i dont like using 2nd hand parts as you can never tell how much life they have left! If anyone could shed some light it would be great! Thanks in advance Baz. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted April 20, 2006 How did he test it ? Put a multimeter across the pins and check the contiunity - You will not be able to buy this part new from vag unfortunatly. You Would be best to source a 2nd hand throttlebody Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted April 20, 2006 is this the switch that lets you put the pwer down?? or am i getting confused with the throttle cable? sorry just trying to learn oops! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted April 20, 2006 This is interesting. What with my recent throttle body woes. I sourced a used body of Ebay. Since fitting it my idle has been a little erratic. Floating around thw 1500 mark and dropping back to 1000. I tap the cable arm and it drops down to 750. I will swap over my micro switches tomorrow and let ya know how it goes. I actually posted about this in the week, members thought it may be a sticky cable also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted April 21, 2006 I used to get symptoms like this on my Golf during/after trackdays. The tickover screw was coming out. It took the ECU quite a while to shut the ISV far enough to get the tickover back within limits. Winding it back in fixed it. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted April 21, 2006 This is interesting. What with my recent throttle body woes. I sourced a used body of Ebay. Since fitting it my idle has been a little erratic. Floating around thw 1500 mark and dropping back to 1000. I tap the cable arm and it drops down to 750. I will swap over my micro switches tomorrow and let ya know how it goes. I actually posted about this in the week, members thought it may be a sticky cable also. Is you microswitch actually being activated ? you may need to adjust it slightly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted April 21, 2006 Hi there. I was wondering that. The arm seems to be a slightly different design to my old arm. Not the cable run but the small arm that touches the rear micro switch. I was going to start tinkering with screws. Reminded me of teenage days of carbs n mini's. Oh now my carb does'nt work anymore!! So I left it. Is it just a case of breaking the paint seal on the screws n winding em till the arm touches the switch?? Oh I got the RSR kit yesterday all on and running :-P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted April 21, 2006 morning again to the man of G. My tickover seems to be soughted. I got out my old throttle body and looked at the screw settings. Very slight difference's between the two. I matched the settings and tickover on start u seems to be good. Suffereing a sticky starter motor now :roll: Can't win. Turn the key and .....silence! Swift use of large hammer shaft seems to sought it :lol: have to take that off and grease it all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest 0 Posted April 21, 2006 As Darren already said, put an Ohmmeter across both switches on the TB (the idle switch and the WOT switch). Then activate the switches and see whether they work. I myself may need a new idle switch, as it does not measure infinity when opened, but that doesn't seem to cause any problems yet as far as the ECU is concerned, as the ECU seems to use a threshold value, above which it assumes the switch to be open. Having looked at how to replace just the switch, it's a case of ordering a special format switch (typical) from the likes of RS, as the switches used are no bulk-standard 10-a-penny-microswitches as commonly used in other areas of electronics. I still do have a spare complete loom with both switches lying around (2nd hand) but will need that myself one day, sorry. They should still be easy to source from scrappies etc. Tempest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bristolbaron 10 Posted April 22, 2006 was checked using a multimeter.. so annoying, i could've done it myself :mad: will be buying a 2nd hand TB next week and will update the thread if it works! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted April 22, 2006 was checked using a multimeter.. so annoying, i could've done it myself :mad: will be buying a 2nd hand TB next week and will update the thread if it works! Should of Call'd me Baz i could of saved you £30.00 :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites