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andiG60

16v wet and very very bad

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Hey all. help needed badly with my 2l 16v!

 

Yesterday there was loads of water on the road. so i went through slowly, in the middle, with revs up, all was fine, drove at speed down the motorway for 40 miles. car running perfect.

 

Stopped for 5 hours during work. Then car was hard to start. Thought it was damp, it started, i drove (hard) for about 30 mins to dry her out. Now DEAD :cry: wont start. when i turn the key, and pump the pedal, there is a swith on top of the engine which i think the throttle cable is connected to, it open full and the car feels like it should catch but wont????

 

Any ideas?

 

A few months ago, i had major problems and i had a number of things wrong. i changed ECU, lamda, plugs, and module on the metering head which cost like 150 quid alone, as well as some sort of plug at the bottom of the engine was knackered

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Hey all. help needed badly with my 2l 16v!

 

Yesterday there was loads of water on the road. so i went through slowly, in the middle, with revs up, all was fine, drove at speed down the motorway for 40 miles. car running perfect.

 

Stopped for 5 hours during work. Then car was hard to start. Thought it was damp, it started, i drove (hard) for about 30 mins to dry her out. Now DEAD :cry: wont start. when i turn the key, and pump the pedal, there is a swith on top of the engine which i think the throttle cable is connected to, it open full and the car feels like it should catch but wont????

 

Any ideas?

 

A few months ago, i had major problems and i had a number of things wrong. i changed ECU, lamda, plugs, and module on the metering head which cost like 150 quid alone, as well as some sort of plug at the bottom of the engine was knackered

 

You need to narrow it down, electrical or fuel related?

 

(1) Does it turn over? - think you say it does (starter solenoid can go)

(2) Have you checked for a spark? (hall sender on dizzy can die) pull a plug put it on top of cam cover and see if you get a spark on cranking.

(3) have you got fuel pressure to the injectors?, does the under car pump buzz?

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did you have the plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm changed when you had problems before? sounds like a spark issue to me, and if they've not been done they'd be the first place I'd look.

 

-edit-

 

sorry just noticed its a 2.0 16v, not a 1.8... did they still use a dizzy/rotor setup or did they change?

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it does turn over, i will check for spark when i get back after work. and the pump does prime when turning the key

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Bugger... would've been nice if that sorted it. Sounds electrical to me, let us know how the spark check goes mate.

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yeah check spark, but dont rule out an ignition switch, mine went after a bit of fiddling my car :lol:

 

just a coincidence but i was sure it was cos of me

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Just a bit of pointless information here as im bored and have itchy fingers.

 

WD40 - the "WD" stand's for Water Displacement.

 

So there you go :lol:

 

R7

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another use for WD-40 according to the ppl themselves

 

• Removes a Boa Constrictor stuck in engine compartment of cars

 

always wondered how you did that

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right! think i solved it.

 

i got the the car running but within a few seconds of starting, it would run super weak and start backfiring from the front end!. as i changed the acuactor last time the car was playing up, i disconnected it and then ran fine??, so, im assuming a fault with the signal from the lamba as,dispite changing this just before xmas, when ecu and actuator changed i cant think of anything else??? andy ideas?

 

0000, and i tried another acuator and ecu on the car, but same symptoms

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The Lambda probe works in open-loop mode when the car is cold so if you've got running problems on a cold start it won't be that. For cold-running fuel enrichment the temperature sender signal is used by the ECU I believe. It makes sense that the car runs fine for a few seconds as that's about as long as the cold-start injector will be operating.

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I hear the G60 ECU does a lot of fuelling based on this mysterious 1m-long vacuum hose.. Best check that's *exactly* 1m long too..!

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But if i disconnect the actuator (when cold) the car will start, she does not like it very much but will start. when up to normal temps, if i kill the engine and restart, same problem. so it happens regardless of if the engine is hot or cold.

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