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camshaftg60

Crank sprocket bolt with thread lock?

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hello

I just fitted in a new crank bolt with thread lock in when my torque wrench

couldn't go pass 70 ft lbs when 86 ft lbs was need, also thread lock gel

dried up, so now I can't tighten down or loosen bolt. what should I use to torque or remove bolt?

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ideally you need the car up on a ramp or something and a big breaker bar.

 

you can manage otherwise though,if you can get the car up high enough on axle stands and wotnot,and someone/something jammed on the break pedal or in the flywheel (carefully)

 

if you get the bolt out id clean the thread up and reapply thread lock (guessing you are using mk1 dx bolt?)

 

and welcome to the forum,neil. :)

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To be honest, it'll be just fine, i had a hell of a job getting mine undone and i've retorqued it to wheel nut type of tension, it's a harmonic balance wheel on the VR6, not sure which engine you are talking about but if it's in there and is stuck, you'll be fine.

 

 

Chris

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If the pulley seems wobbly, the face of the crank where the cam belt pulley bolts up to is damaged or has contamination from dirt or thread lock. If you run it like this, the pulley bolt WILL fail eventually and wreck the valves. You hold the crank still using VW tool 3099, which bolts to the pulley and has sliders that react against the sump. The face of the crank can be resurfaced in two ways. Remove the crank and have a machine shop reface it or reface it in situ with a special tool, which works 99

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Info, tech stuff etc, blurb you know?

Like when you go to a dealer of car, hi-fi etc and ask if they have any blurb on that?

 

It wasn't a slur but a normal expression.

 

 

 

Chirs

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I normaly call what I crank out BBB, you know BS baffles brains. :wink: No offence taken by the way, I forgot the smilie thingy.

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If the damper pulley is wobbly and it's already tight you have a problem with the crank to pulley mating face and you need to take a look to see what's wrong.

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its not quite as simple as this crasher,,

 

when the engine is on a slow idle you may very well see the pulley wobbling about as the harmonic damper is doing its job, take the rev`s up to about 2000 rpm and then look at the pulley,, if its still wobbling then you may have a problem,, if not its probably fine,,

 

cant be too safe with these crank bolts as they are a known problem on these cars,, so posters your right to be inquisitive on here,, do a search on G60 crank bolts there is allot of usefull information regarding them,, think there is an old thread i replied to ono here somewhere,, i`ll hunt it out,,

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Describing the amount of wobble on a pulley by text isn't easy but as far as I'm concerned, there should be no visible movement even at idle. The one I am just servicing at the moment has no visible radial or axial run out. The only true test is to remove the damper and use a dial gauge to measure run out on the toothed belt face. I have seen so many of these fail on various VAG products that I don't take any chances. The in situ re-facing tool saves hours. If you want to tell him to tighten it up a bit more and see how it goes, be my guest. The first picture is of a damaged (16v G2 in this case) crank and the second picture is of the alignment pin used with the face cutter and the surface of the crank nearly restored.

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'lo Steve, good to see a well known person on here... 8) (giving good advice too! 8) )

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I've just noticed that my G60 crank pulley is wobbling by about 0.5 - 1.0mm at idle, but looks fine on fast idle (or does it just appear truer because its moving faster??)

 

Does a wobbly pulley mean that the crank bolt or pulley has been removed at some point in it's life, or can it happen to engines that have been untouched?

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