camshaftg60 0 Posted June 10, 2006 hello I just fitted in a new crank bolt with thread lock in when my torque wrench couldn't go pass 70 ft lbs when 86 ft lbs was need, also thread lock gel dried up, so now I can't tighten down or loosen bolt. what should I use to torque or remove bolt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 10, 2006 ideally you need the car up on a ramp or something and a big breaker bar. you can manage otherwise though,if you can get the car up high enough on axle stands and wotnot,and someone/something jammed on the break pedal or in the flywheel (carefully) if you get the bolt out id clean the thread up and reapply thread lock (guessing you are using mk1 dx bolt?) and welcome to the forum,neil. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 To be honest, it'll be just fine, i had a hell of a job getting mine undone and i've retorqued it to wheel nut type of tension, it's a harmonic balance wheel on the VR6, not sure which engine you are talking about but if it's in there and is stuck, you'll be fine. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camshaftg60 0 Posted June 10, 2006 thanks everyone! sorry its a 1990 g60 :D , the crankpully seems wobbly, should I tighten it down? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 10, 2006 If the pulley seems wobbly, the face of the crank where the cam belt pulley bolts up to is damaged or has contamination from dirt or thread lock. If you run it like this, the pulley bolt WILL fail eventually and wreck the valves. You hold the crank still using VW tool 3099, which bolts to the pulley and has sliders that react against the sump. The face of the crank can be resurfaced in two ways. Remove the crank and have a machine shop reface it or reface it in situ with a special tool, which works 99 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 Crasher, that's a whole lot of blurb, are you copying and pasting this or have you done these things? Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted June 10, 2006 steve creswell of C&R Fame.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 C&R? Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted June 10, 2006 click on his www box and all will be reveled Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 10, 2006 Chris, No I'm not copying and pasting. What do you mean by "blurb"? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 Info, tech stuff etc, blurb you know? Like when you go to a dealer of car, hi-fi etc and ask if they have any blurb on that? It wasn't a slur but a normal expression. Chirs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 10, 2006 I normaly call what I crank out BBB, you know BS baffles brains. :wink: No offence taken by the way, I forgot the smilie thingy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camshaftg60 0 Posted June 10, 2006 can't I just replace the bolt and sprocket? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 11, 2006 Replace with a NEW one yeah - the originals are stretch bolts! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 11, 2006 If the damper pulley is wobbly and it's already tight you have a problem with the crank to pulley mating face and you need to take a look to see what's wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted June 12, 2006 its not quite as simple as this crasher,, when the engine is on a slow idle you may very well see the pulley wobbling about as the harmonic damper is doing its job, take the rev`s up to about 2000 rpm and then look at the pulley,, if its still wobbling then you may have a problem,, if not its probably fine,, cant be too safe with these crank bolts as they are a known problem on these cars,, so posters your right to be inquisitive on here,, do a search on G60 crank bolts there is allot of usefull information regarding them,, think there is an old thread i replied to ono here somewhere,, i`ll hunt it out,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted June 12, 2006 Describing the amount of wobble on a pulley by text isn't easy but as far as I'm concerned, there should be no visible movement even at idle. The one I am just servicing at the moment has no visible radial or axial run out. The only true test is to remove the damper and use a dial gauge to measure run out on the toothed belt face. I have seen so many of these fail on various VAG products that I don't take any chances. The in situ re-facing tool saves hours. If you want to tell him to tighten it up a bit more and see how it goes, be my guest. The first picture is of a damaged (16v G2 in this case) crank and the second picture is of the alignment pin used with the face cutter and the surface of the crank nearly restored. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 13, 2006 'lo Steve, good to see a well known person on here... 8) (giving good advice too! 8) ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted August 25, 2006 I've just noticed that my G60 crank pulley is wobbling by about 0.5 - 1.0mm at idle, but looks fine on fast idle (or does it just appear truer because its moving faster??) Does a wobbly pulley mean that the crank bolt or pulley has been removed at some point in it's life, or can it happen to engines that have been untouched? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites