Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
flusted

Bleeding brakes and clutch

Recommended Posts

Can someone tell me the correct proccedure for bleeding my brakes and clutch?

Ive had my front calipers off and the engine out so will the rears need bleeding?

Do i bleed the clutch first?

I dont have abs

 

Hoping to do it tommorrow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As you don't have ABS it's dead easy...

 

Brakes- Rear right first, then rear left, then front left, and finally front right on the brakes (working on longest pipe run first to shortest pipe run last)

 

Rears may not need doing if you've only messed with the fronts, depends on how much fluid you lost doing it - personally, I'd take the opportunity to do a complete fluid change to DOT5.1 so you can safely know that it's been done recently... 8) If you do do the rears, try not to jack the car up else the bias valve will stop most of the pressure getting to the rear brakes meaning that it'll take ages to bleed 'em through... :|

 

Do the clutch after doing the brakes. You'll need two people to do the clutch as someone will have to push and pull the clutch pedal while the other person opens and closes the bleed nipple as a self bleeder won't work on the clutch system for some odd reason....

 

NEVER LET THE SYSTEM RUN COMPLETELY OUT OF FLUID - it won't damage anything, it's just an utter pig to bleed the system through if you do! :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Do the clutch after doing the brakes. You'll need two people to do the clutch as someone will have to push and pull the clutch pedal while the other person opens and closes the bleed nipple as a self bleeder won't work on the clutch system for some odd reason....

 

I used an Eezi-Bleed kit, worked a treat on both the G60 and mk4 TDi engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bled my system yesterday (with ABS), one word...

 

Nightmare.

 

And it's still not quite there...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did my system with ABS the other week with an eazibleed, no major problems, bleeding the master cylinder is what sorted my pedal out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

whats the difference with abs then ? is it a different procedure ,ive got to do this soon ,hope you dont mind me asking flusted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

with ABS you need to have the ignition switched on and pray a lot that you don't get any air bubbles into the pump else it's an utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter utter pig to bleed through...

 

I forgot to add in that the brake master cylinder should be bled at the very end after the clutch is done... :oops:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might have go air in mine I reckon.

 

I'm going to leave it a few days and try again. Have read a couple of threads where folks have found their pedal magically firming up after a few days...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bled my ABS system with the ignition off, I think its only the American ones that need the ignition on, hence why it says ignition on in the Bentley Manual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep it is US spec with the valve block and MC in one that need the ignition on, our ABS systems should really only be pressure bled, any air goes into the pump and vagcom is needed to sort out with over 200 presses of the brake pedal!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ah, so that also applies to all NON RHD corrados then as well as the Golf G60s which have the same brake system...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To bleed the brakes at the master cylinder, do you have to press the brake pedal down in the same way as you press the clutch when bleeding at the slave cylinder?

 

The Master is located under the tube beneath the MAF and throttle body isnt it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
To bleed the brakes at the master cylinder, do you have to press the brake pedal down in the same way as you press the clutch when bleeding at the slave cylinder?

 

The Master is located under the tube beneath the MAF and throttle body isnt it?

 

Bleeding the master cylinder is just the same as bleeding at all the other nipples, you just need a smaller spanner, 6mm IIRC. It's easier if you remove the plastic pipe between the MAF and the throttle body first as it gives you more access.

 

Not quite sure why everyone has so many problems bleeding the brakes, I did all four wheels, the ABS pump and the master cylinder on my own with the car on axle stands. I started with a completely empty system as I'd had all the calipers off for painting and it took about 1 1/2 hours tops. Only thing to look out for is putting a G clamp across the rear axle bias valve to allow full flow to the rear cylinders. Plus if you have no assistant you'll need an eazi-bleed.

 

I've never tried pressure bleeding as I don't have the kit but then never had need of it either. The theory about having the ignition on and pumping the pedal loads is a myth caused by the fact we have no UK manual to refer to, the Bentley manual was for US brakes which were totally different from ours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...