Ronan 0 Posted July 16, 2006 If you've seen my post in the wanted section, you'll know that I'm rebuilding my G60, to a 1.9. It's been getting slower and slower, and I know the previous owner cracked a piston, so I thought I'd just bite the bullet and throw a load of money at it, and rebuild it. I've been asked what kind of power I'm going to get out of it, and to be honest, I have no idea! Here's the spec, tell me what you think.... JE 82.5mm pistons (1850cc I think) ARP Head Bolts ARP Rod Bolts Crank/fly balanced and possibly lightened R1 Charger Ported/polished head Full s/s system stainless 4 branch Looking at a cam too, so probably a piper? Also looking for a new inlet manifold... SWG Twin inlet kit Toothed belt kit/68mm pulley FMIC Intercooler What do you reckon? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big_chris1981 0 Posted July 16, 2006 245090303049503493049039405 bhp. but thats just a conservative estimate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronan 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Haha, Walesy, your an idiot! Thanks for the help guys, I can now let the guy who asked know that it will be somewhere between 161 and 245090303049503493049039405 bhp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Did you find out what was wrong with your engine then? Or are you rebuilding another one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronan 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Nah not found out what the problem is, so just biting the bullet really. I can pick up a bare block for 80 quid if need be, so I can use one of those instead of mine if mine is wrecked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 17, 2006 around 210 to 225bhp would be my estimate... (unless the head's a superb one or a CNC jobbie) Porting and polishing the throttle body will help too, and make sure your exhaust is good and free flowing... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronan 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Ahh yeah, I shall get the TB done as well, thanks Henny! I've been offered a full Supersprint system as my current Milltek one is wrecked, it has a Supersprint manifold on it too - would this be a wise move? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeavisJem 0 Posted July 18, 2006 unless the head's a superb one or a CNC jobbie Would you expect much more with a cnc head Beavisjem Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 18, 2006 BeavisJem, yeah, I gained around 30bhp just from swapping from a JMR/Racepower flowed/ported standard-sized-valve head and standard cam to one of G-werks' CNC heads and it's associated custom Newman cam... When you see the flow figures for the CNC head they're just silly in comparison to the standard head... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peteTDI 0 Posted July 18, 2006 BeavisJem, yeah, I gained around 30bhp just from swapping from a JMR/Racepower flowed/ported standard-sized-valve head and standard cam to one of G-werks' CNC heads and it's associated custom Newman cam... When you see the flow figures for the CNC head they're just silly in comparison to the standard head... 8) standard size valves again or the over sized ones? and what if you chuck a 2l stroker crank and longer rods at it at the same time what bhp can you expect then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 18, 2006 I had oversized ones put into my CNC head... but the standard valved CNC head flows as near as dammit the same as a 16V head! 8) 2litre stroker crank and longer rods may give more power, but it depends on what the throw of the crank is and how much longer the rods are... I know of some 2 litre engines which make substantially less BHP and torque than my 1940 engine and are nasty to drive at high RPMs just because of what they've based the engine around... Longer throw also needs more machining to the block/oil squirters and could push the cost up substantially... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peteTDI 0 Posted July 18, 2006 whats the best way to get more low down torque as my car is just dead under 3k and just a bit better over that and its showing 1580 on the mfa thingy? the bottom end is rattling at around 2.5k so i'am look at a full rebuild anyway? ps sorry for the hijack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted July 18, 2006 Go for 35-mm exhaust valves and a Piper 270 cam, easy to live with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy 0 Posted July 18, 2006 I managed 242bhp with my spec, and thats with standard bottom end... ok with a 65mm pulley but... :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigTartanJudge 0 Posted July 23, 2006 I would have thought it would make at LEAST 225BHP with that spec. I made 244.5BHP with the following spec on the standard bottom end.....and was running 68mm pulley then...... standard PG bottom end lightened / balanced crank ported / polished head with big valves flowed / polished inlet manifold ported and polished throttlebody full s/s exhaust (no cat) Schrick 268-276 degree asymmetrical cam SNS stage 5 chip 68 mm pulley Porsche 944 Turbo 3.5 Bar FPR Bosch red-top injectors FMIC with 2.5" alloy piping Cheers and HTH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kongo127 0 Posted July 23, 2006 Can you guys put all this power on the floor? Don´t you get wheel spinning easily? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaggy 0 Posted July 23, 2006 yeah of course we can..... :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigTartanJudge 0 Posted July 23, 2006 Bit of torque steer and for scrabbles for grip in 1st / 2nd ATM but that will all change with the new gearbox that's going in soon hopefully............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kongo127 0 Posted July 23, 2006 I agree! For better results a gearbox to match that power is a MUST! :) The original ATB G60´s gearbox seems to be the better box to get if you don´t want to go for a gearbox rebuild service. It´s final drive is much better for those kind of power / torque instead of the CBA. I have tested both in my G60, you can really notice the huge difference! :) The ATB final drive is very similar to the VR6 ones... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 24, 2006 No problems getting 250+ down through my modded ratio G60/VR6 hybrid box... The Quaife ATB Diff and Goodyear Eagle GSD3s handle it well... 8) 1st's a bit pointless to be honest though, I only tend to use it for hill starts normally unless I'm trying to prove a point from a set of traffic lights/junction... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites