G60 RUNNING SUPER RICH

[flusted 0]

My 60 is running so rich when first started it wont rev up :(

Its ok after about 5mins but spits flames on gear change and the exhaust pops like mad.

Ive changed the chip and blue sender,and its still the same so presuming lambda?

 

Need advice as im new to all this digi malarky :x My 60 is running so rich when first started it wont rev up :(

Its ok after about 5mins but spits flames on gear change and the exhaust pops like mad.

Ive changed the chip and blue sender,and its still the same so presuming lambda?

 

Need advice as im new to all this digi malarky

[Spykee 0]

have you checked the timing? mine was miles out and it caused exactly the same problems for me, it also made the accelleration feel really flat as if the car was gutless.......

 

another possibility is knackered HT leads causing firing problems? does it start ok?

 

the lambda would be a good bet to try though because if its not reading the exhaust gasses correctly it could be causing all sorts..........

[Crasher 3]

Check that the vacuum pipes on the back of the throttle body aren’t the wrong way around.

[flusted 0]

Ok ive checked the vacuum pipes and replaced the ecu pipe and made sure it was exactly 1m long.

Tried another lambda that i know was ok from a mk3 gti and the prob is still there.

On gear change you can see a big black cloud from exhaust when gunning it.

Car isnt performing as it should either.

Car starts perfectly but after 30secs of running,it starts to go lumpy then bogs down for about 3 mins then clears whether engine is warm or not

 

Really annoying me now, but its a learning process aswell

[Henny 0]

could be a dodgy CO pot, or connection to the CO pot...

 

My CO pot went wrong and as a result the engine was flooding and wouldn't start at all... :|

[flusted 0]

How do i check the pot? read something about 500 ohms but theres 3 pins on it,so which pins do i measure across?

[flusted 0]

is it poss for me to get some of the plugs around the wrong way on the engine loom?

Like the gearbox plug and co pot round wrong way?

If yes,can someone tell me the right colours for the items

[Henny 0]

measure across the outer two pins and you should get 500ish ohms

Then measure across the middle to outer pin and you should get a resistance, blow cold air across the sensor and the resistance should change... if it doesn't, it's dead.

[flusted 0]

Briiliant,thanks henny.

Could it be the device at the end of fuel rail with brown plug on it?

Other end to fuel pressure reg?

[Crasher 3]

The device on the fuel rail is an excess pressure sensor to kick in the fuel pump with the engine off. Unfortunately, most do not work, as the standard way of immobilising a car is to cut the fuel pump feed, so no pump run on! To check the lambda, measure the voltage on the signal wire or even easier, just disconnect it to see what happens. Is the Co excessive at idle?

[flusted 0]

Havent checked the co,but the fact it stinks of fuel and struggles to rev unless you floor it,then it clears momenterally.

[flusted 0]

Checked the co pot today and its 440 instead of 500,do you think this could be the prob? i drove around without it plugged in and it was the same.

Can these be adjusted?

If yes,how

[flusted 0]

ok,set the co pot to 500 and its still the same.

Someone on here must know the digi system??????

If i unplug the blue sender the engine trys to stall so im guessing thats working,i press the WOT and car runs even rougher so that must be working.

Can anyone else advise on any other checks i can do as this is really cheesing me off now

[zacon 0]

All I can tell you is that the CO-pot thingy is also the inlet temperature sensor. I have no idea whether it is the temperatur sensor or the potentiometer that had broken in Henny's case.

 

If you measure between pin 1 (blue) and pin 3 (brown/white) you will get the temperature reading. By measuring between pin 2 (blue/white) and pin 3 (brown/white) you will get the potentiometer value.

 

I wish I could help you more.

[flusted 0]

co pot is working when you blow across it.

Could the ecu be in limp mode?

Ive got an extra earth strap on ecu to body,all earths have good voltage as checked with multi meter.

I think problem wasnt there in donor car,so must be something ive missed.

How do you check wiring to lambda with multi meter?

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Adie,have you mixed up the vacume pipes on the throttle body?,ECU's pipe goes to the upper brass nipple.

What chip are you running?,injectors?,fuel press. been checked?,holes or splits in any small vacume hoses?,broken/perished/heat cracked lambda wiring?,faulty lambda probe?,faulty FPR?,air filter choked?,small brass nipples on throttle body blocked? oh and any news on the 90mm spoiler??????.

[flusted 0]

Was running amd chip,i changed to sns and the prob was still there.

Got brand new filter,lambda wires seem fine,havent checked fuel pressure although i did think im using the 16v pump,would that cause any probs?

The 90mm spoiler i have is cracked both sides?

 

What controls the cold start? as when engine is first started in mornin,its not so bad as car needs "choke" as such,but soon as its warmed up,and i turn ignition off and on again,it goes into cold start mode and drowns :cry:

[flusted 0]

Checked vacuum to ecu whilst engine running and theres plenty there,also checked and replaced pipe to fpr.

When i unplugged ecu vacuum,engine idled better but wouldnt rev up?

[flusted 0]

Could it be because im using the 16v fuel pump?

[VEEDUBBED 0]

No mate because i've got a golf 2 16v bosch fuel pump inside my G60 fuel tank,fitted inside the O/E pump housing,check the fuel press. with a mechanical fuel press. gauge on start-up,should shoot up to 3 Bar as soon as you hear the pump's relay kick in.

Ignore my last post about the spoiler,i read this post afterwards.

[flusted 0]

Yeah but i have a 16v fuel pumnp under the car aswell as in the tank

[zacon 0]

The first G60s came with both a lifting pump in the tank aswell as a primary pump under the car by the fuel filter. The newer ones had only one - which was inside the tank if I'm not mistaken.

 

It's really easy to measure the fuel pressure on the PGs, just connect a fuel pressure gauge in place of the pressure thingy you were talking about earlier. I'd suppose too high pressure could cause your problem, but I'm really not that sure.

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Two high press. fuel pumps???,if i understood that correctly i don't see the need for 2 pumps unless your running a 550+hp Garret GT-35/40 equipped VR6,T4 turbo 16v,8 injectors etc.

Total overkill on a G-charged mill regardless of what mods are done,try disconecting 1 of the pumps and see if it makes any difference.

Also,if your running two hp fuel pumps i assume you've also installed bigger fuel lines?.

[zacon 0]

The first one in the tank is only a tiny primer pump (that tends to break by the way) I don't know why the system is made that way. I have the same set up in my '92 2.0 16V.

[flusted 0]

yeah, we have a small lift pump in the tank,then a main pump under the car.

The g60 the engine came out of has 2 pumps but im sure i read somewhere that the 16v undercar pump is higher pressure.

Would the fpr just send fuel back to tank after it reaches 3bar?