16v performance upgrades

[samwell 0]

Got a 16v on a 112,000. it used to smoke a bit but is now taking the wet.

Instead of just replacing the valve stem oilseals would it be worth replacing the head for a performance one. How much will this cost, and will it be worth it............ Also Im a web designer and would be willing to do a dogs bollox site for anyone willing to swap skills.

cheers

[h100vw 0]

Doing the stem seals will only give a short respite from smoking. At or around that mileage the valveguides will be in need of replacement. You might get away with doing the exhaust ones on their own but a complete job would be better. Of course you are into £40-50 for a gasket kit, plus oil and filter, antifreeze and then some other stuff like, water outlet pipes, which would be high on my list of consumables.

 

When you add the cost of having someone do the guides at £5 each, you are a long way up the modified head road moneywise. You could easily find a secondhand head and get it modded up/fettled and then do a swap in a day.

 

I don't need a website but I might be able to help you out with a spare head, if you want to go down that road. Getting it to Stoke probably wouldn't be tough.

 

Gavin

[samwell 0]

Nice one , I think I will go down the replacement head road. it seems the best way to keep the car on the road in the long run, plus it might free up a few horses if its a performance head. Im on a tight budget with this, is there any other performance mods that would be cost effective seeing as the head would be coming off. if so how much would I be looking at.

I have the usual k&n filter and a straight through exhaust.

thanks for your help

[samwell 0]

ps how much would the fettling cost. And what do u reccomend getting done

[davidwort 0]

ps how much would the fettling cost. And what do u reccomend getting done

 

I think you'll be looking at at least 600 quid for a fully rebuilt and gas flowed head for a 16v, takes a lot of time and skill to do properly.

Get a respected head machinist to do the job as a well flowed head can realize over 15bhp on a 16v.

Definitely the best investment for a 16v, standard manifold and downpipe are perfectly adequate, but it's worth getting the inlet and exhaust manifolds ported and polished while the head is off.

Don't forget to budget for new hydraulic tappets too.

engine will pull very smoothly and strongly to red line with a good cylinder head, 2.0 bottom end won't give much more pwer than a 1.8, maybe 6 or 7bhp but does improve torque.

I can e-mail you the power and torque plots if interested (my 1.8 with 2.0 bottom end and gas flowed head)

 

David.

[Henny 0]

At this kind of milage, as soon as you rebuild the top end without touching the bottom end, you're gonna get oil passing the rings from the increased compression a new head will generate over a worn one... You'll find that once the new head is on the old block you quickly start burning MORE oil than before as it'll start passing the rings faster and faster as it can't escape through the valve guides any more so there's more pressure on the rings causing earlier failure... :? :shock:

 

I don't want to sound like a messanger of doom, but on both of the 1.8 KR 16V engines I've had, working on the head has caused the (highish milage) bottom end to start burning oil....

 

So, what I'm trying to say is that while you've got the head off, it's worth doing the rings and re-hohning the cylinders to make sure this doesn't happen... It shouldn't cost you much depending on if you're doing most of the mechanical work yourself. The parts are not expensive, it may just be the labour that hurts... :roll: :(

[samwell 0]

I can e-mail you the power and torque plots if interested (my 1.8 with 2.0 bottom end and gas flowed head)

 

Yes please and also could you recommend anyone to do the work as well and how much will it all cost as I dont have the time or knowledge to do this type of work . Im in stoke but dont mind travelling for a good job.

Thanks guys all info appreciated.

[Henny 0]

There's a great engine place in Burslem who I've used for lots of engine/head work while I was a mechanic... He did the valve guides/seats on my KR 16V and IIRC it came to about £100 all in... :) You do have to take him the head only, so you'll need to strip it yourself...

 

DAVE RUSHTON (Engines) Ltd, Unit 2 Maplehurst Close, Hot Lane Industrial Estate, Burslem, Stoke on Trent ST6 2EJ Tel: \ Fax +44 (0)1782 822353

 

http://www.daverushton.co.uk/

 

Be warned that he can be a miserable sod at times, but his work more than makes up for it! :? :lol:

[morpheus20170 0]

I saw someone in PVW or was it the Golf had a 18 16V with a 2.0 bottom end, where do you get the 2.0 bottom end from, that is my question?

And, while I am at it where do I get a new head from?

I'm in Brighton, any help would be great.

Cheers,

Paul

[andycowuk 0]

Try

 

http://www.grantmotorsport.co.uk/heads.asp

 

I haven't used them myself, but have heard good stuff.

 

Nice prices thats for sure :)

 

There are 2 main 2 litre bottom ends

 

ABF - tall block - from MK3 2l 16v

9A - Short Block- from corrado/audi 80 & coupe

 

The ABF block has a 15mm longer stroke, so has a bit more torque throughout the range giving a smoother power curve.

The 9A is the same stroke as KR but a bigger bore, so has the same power curve, just higher numbers!

 

If you are going for really big upgrades you should consider:

ABF has longer strock so in theory should not be able to rev as high as 9A.

The ABF does have a knock sensor though, which is a benifit.

 

My 2litre golf has the ABF makes for really easy driving - and with KR cams, makes it pretty fast!

 

The ABF, 9A, and KR all use the same head.

 

Hope this helps.