Solid Brake Lines

[Supercharged 2]

Heeello

 

Can anyone explain the difference between the different materials that you can get for making up the solid brake lines as I keep getting conflicting info..

 

Copper, Steel etc - anything else better? - I've noticed they seem to look painted on some cars, SEAT's seem to use green ones... best place to get them?

 

I assume fitting is easy (just plumbing) but i've never done it before - what's needed to do them? Is it just pipe flaring tools or do I need a tool to bend them into shape? - any other speacial fixings needed from VW like the end nuts etc??

 

TIA

 

Soup

[ZippyVR6 0]

Copper and they can be bent with a pipe bender. If you give cafco a shout they should be able to bend some into shape for you on the spot. I got some done for a mini and they fabricated them in 5 mins.

[Supercharged 2]

Cheers, how do they know the dimensions tho - do they have a diagram to go from?

 

Also what size (diam) are the VAG ones?

[Skimask 0]

Brake pipes - its horses for courses:

Copper is good - easily bent into shape and doesn't rust. Bad points - they are too soft - If a year down the line you have to replace the flexi brake pipe adjoining it - then more often than not its siezed to the nut and twists.

 

Steel (more like a rust resistant alloy) You've more chance of removing the connection in one piece - not so prone to seizing, harder to bend into shape.

 

If you're making them yourself then start with copper its easier to work.

The male and female connectors can be obtained from any good motor factors - but take along a union with you to get the correct size\thread.

 

You will need a quality flaring tool - there are cheap ones ~ £15 but are crap.

 

If you get someone to make them up for you, more likely they'll ask you to bring along the old pipe and they use that as a guide to bend it into shape.

 

Worst of all is brake fluid - the most flammable liquid in the car! Not good for your skin either, and very messy.

[Supercharged 2]

Skimask, cheers mate...

 

I'll be changing the lines too as i'm fitting new calipers (fronts), done fluid changes before with Eezybleed so fine with that.

 

I have access to a decent tool i think - does it need to be a certain size?

 

The pipe bender I have is for house plumbing, do I just need a smaller version of that - ie slots inside the pipe?

[Crasher 3]

I make my own ridgid pipes using a Sykes Pickavant ( http://www.sptools.co.uk ) flaring tool, a propriety pipe cutter and Kunifer10 (90% copper, 10% nickel) pipe and M10x1 male steel ends, easily available from any local motor factors in rolls and boxes respectively. Brass ends are available but I find they can chew their threads very easily so we use plated steel ends with ally paste inside the end on the outside of the pipe and spray wax over the top to prevent corrosion induced pipe twisting in years to come.

[dinkus 10]

Scruffythefirst made all of the brake lines up for his Dax - I think all you need to bend the pipes is a suitably sturdy piece of larger diameter pipe to bend them around. They're pretty soft, so not too hard.

 

Just don't try bending them 'freehand' cos you'll kink 'em...

 

 

No idea bout ends and wotnot tho :)

[Skimask 0]

Supercharged: the flaring tool should cater for different sized pipes, as long as it grips the pipe without crimping it, and leaves a good flared end. Try making a couple of pipes, if it doesn't look right - or like the original then bin it and make another, brake pipe is pretty cheap.

 

As for bending the pipes - I usually just use my thumbs to bend it! As long as you take your time and don't kink the pipe or flatten it - then its OK - just use common sense.

[ZippyVR6 0]

8m/10mm/12mm pipe bender is the best thing to use. Can be bought from screwfix. or maybe 2nd hand on the bay.

[Trig 0]

When I did mine I got a local garage to make them up for me using the old ones as templates. If you do that you need to make sure they use the right connectors (convex or concave), they go on before flairing so if they're the wrong ones you'll have to cut the pipe & re-flair it.

 

Other than that it is just plumbing, you can make minor bends to the pipes with your hands. Obviously use copper grease on all connections. I had axel stands on the rear but it becomes quite a tight job when you're clipping them in just down from the engine bay. ;)

 

TBH I found removal considerably more tricky with seized connections. :roll:

[Kezbo 0]

Hi,

 

Sorry to jump in. My VR6 has just failed on MOT because one of the solid like under the car is showing excess corriosion. So im going to replace them all. Does anywhere sell complete kits, all ready cut and flared etc? I know GSF do them for older vw's (campers etc) do they or anyone else do a kit?

 

Cheers for your help, couldnt find anything in search.

[Bobby 0]

i need to do the ones on my valver, heard the compensator valve is the hardest part.

[Trig 0]

Yeah it is a bit fiddly getting some of the rusted connectors off. There is one bit of solid line that's only 2 inches long.