Crazy Daves Bog Standard 16v :)

[CrazyDave 0]

Cheers guys :)

 

Seen some nice short 'sport type' cats today. Standard fit on quite a lot of modern Audi V engines, going to try and get some part numbers. But some of them might not be available yet? Development engine stuff.

 

The Corrado cat is just far to long, no room to get it in with the downpipe orientation. Even VW struggled looking at the angle of the lower three stud joint.

 

The oil drain isn't ideal cos it may get some oil washing around when accelerating. I can't get my normal drill in behind the engine with it in place and I don't have any air tools (those nice short air drills). Can maybe borrow a right angle drill which would do the job, something for the future?

 

I was thinking of re-positioning some of the probe bungs. I noticed the VW one is at an angle of about 45 deg to give better cable clearance. Seems like a plan for a least one of them.

[blue95 0]

Awsome work, looks damn tight under there...hardly any room to wiggle a screwdriver!!!!!!

 

There are some sports cats for sale on 034motorpsort website for about $149 is this a good price?

 

"Race Catalytic Converter, 3" Metal Core $149.00

 

3" race cat with metal maxtrix core for high flow, effective catalyzing and long lastinig use. 409 Stainless steel body with integrated heat shield, 3" ID.

 

250 cell per inch. Overall length 9", Body 5" wide by 4" tall, flowed at over 580 CFM, recommended for applications up to 600HP. "

 

http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... cts_id=599

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dave, is there not a grommet in the bulkhead close to where you need to drill the block? :lol:

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Its nice being a tester and your car not needing a cat ... :wink:

[CrazyDave 0]

Dave, is there not a grommet in the bulkhead close to where you need to drill the block? :lol:

 

But then I'd need a really long drill bit and I ain't got one of those either :lol:

 

Cheers Blue95 I'll have a look.

 

On the cat front, I had a site visit to a leading design and manufacturer of cats yesterday.

 

Apparently you only need 3" of cat length to pass an MOT. This will remove enough CO and HC to meet it easy. So it's bandsaw and welder time! The length is for getting the NOX levels down which isn't an MOT requirement. 8)

[Guest]

does the bulk head have to be modified inorder to fit turbo ???

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nope.

[CrazyDave 0]

OK, I've been looking at lots of production turbo engines on test beds this week. The turbo oil drains on quite a few of them are into the sump, and a few (a real beauty of a V6 twin turbo 480hp) are really low in the pan, with no oil smoke problems.

 

So I'm pretty happy with the location of mine now.

 

Time to crack on with the inlet pipework. Finish the exhaust. Get everything TIGed together and build it all up.

 

Still got to order a charge cooler and bits.

 

Then I've got to design and build an inlet manifold. Lots of ideas, just need to crack on with it all!

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

The drain will be fine Dave,but looking at alot of turbo diesels at work they are always drained above the oil level ?

 

So you are making a manifold? Good luck with that i just could not be arsed :lol:

 

Ive had mine out for a spin,so smooooooooth compared to the charger and sooooooo quite! 8)

 

I love it and you will aswell bud get cracking!! :twisted:

[CrazyDave 0]

Finally got the exhaust and wastegate finished today, just needs TIGing together.

 

Started on the inlet pipework. Tacked up the sections for the turbo outlet around the engine bay and down by the gearbox. The charge cooler will sit down near the gearbox running towards the front of the car and picking up on the inlet manifold (still TBD). May move the battery into the boot, not sure yet, depends on space.

 

Finished the sump and drain pipe off, all fitted back on now.

 

I need a few more bits of pipe to finish the inlet side, and yes I'm keeping the standard airbox, should nice and quiet. I may drill the bottom out and fit a pipe into the wheel arch via the carbon canister hole?

 

Removed all the turbo and manifold etc and lagged all the rear of the engine bay, brake pipes, steering rack, column gaitor etc (didn't get a pics of this though).

 

The 'bay' with quite a few bits chucked back in to look at clearance.

 

Air inlet needs a few bits of pipe to finish.

 

Downpipe with external wastegate pipe fitted.

 

The rest of the 'zorst' with v band section for cat.

 

Boost pipework and Tial BOV, the only noisy bit!

 

Stainless heat sheild for turbine side of turbo.

 

James Yep, making my own manifold seemed like a good idea at the time, but now I just want it finished! Especially after reading about another VRT running 8) .

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Looking good Dave,the inlet noise is very quite and im running a 4" to turbo! All you can hear is the turbo whistle on boost :twisted:

 

So what manifold are you going to get then? That looks like a Billet fuel rail that the SP manifolds have!? Have you got something to say? :wink: or is it a surprise? :D

 

and that BOV is super quite aswell,its just a very quite set-up!

[CrazyDave 0]

No surprises really, the fuel rail is from SP.

 

The bit of manifold you can just see it a standard VR lower section cut down and machined flat. The plenum chamber will be made up of laser cut ally welded together with some profiling around the port runners to give smooth flow and sized to give about 0.8 of the engine capacity for the chamber.

 

TB on right hand of the engine to pick up the air from the charge cooler. 8)

 

Glad to hear it's quiet. The Jetex I had fitted before starting all this work was about the limit of the noise I like, just fussy I guess.

 

Just noticed my turbo manifold is going rusty, be grass growing on the car next it's been in the same place for so long :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Coming along very nicely. Loving the quality of the pipework, all looks excellent.

 

Did these OE turbo oil pan drains have an oil pump collector behind the return line like the 1.8T does? That's how they get rid of the return obstruction on that engine, which returns at drain plug level.

It's not such a major issue with a journal bearing turbo as the input and output oil flow are much greater than a GT turbo. You should be OK though.

 

I've got a 24V sump on mine and is worth a look as they are baffled, which could be advantageous for oil returning. Also stops surging under acceleration and cornering ;-) They seal much better than the pressed steel one too.

 

Yeah as James says, they are quiet engines....especially the exhaust!

Mine makes a loud sucking noise on boost though....need to run the air filter down into the inner wing me thinks!

[CrazyDave 0]

I had a closer look and the V6 Turbo today, and it has something strange with a breather hose from the rocker covers that must be appying crank case pressure to some kind of venturi?? Most strange?

 

I'm pleased with the pipework so far, still got a fair bit to do though. Thanks for the info on the sump, that sounds like a very good idea.

 

Did you get your injector problem sorted??

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That sounds odd, but kind of cool at the same time!

 

I will need to get some nice one piece pipes made up like that at some point as it's nicer and neater than loads of silicon joiners, well done!

 

Forgot to ask, is that shield on your turbine housing the one from ATP? Looks neat! I've heard the jackets can cause cracking so took mine off, but they do do a good job!

 

Not sure on the injector yet. The engine is currently out with a scratched no6 cylinder. I'm not sure if the injector was duff, washed the bore and killed the rings, or if the injector was fine all along and some mechanical problem scratched the bores..... it's not a nice one to investigate as there can be any number of causes!

[CrazyDave 0]

The turbine cover is from ATP, thought I'd give it a go (about $60 if I remember rightly), not going to be as good as a full jacket but in addition to that I'm going to try and create a heat shielded tunnel to try and encourage the heat down and out underneath the car. Don't know if it'll work but everything will be insulated as much a pos anyway.

 

Real bad luck on the engine. Set me thinking about how you could have detected it. But I guess the only way is to run EGT on all cylinders. Which isn't that difficult, drill and tap the manifold. Fit 8 thermocouples and some signal conditioning to monitor the difference between the temperatures, any more than a few hundred degrees puts a hugh red light on.

 

I still might need to move the battery to get the charge cooler in, again not much of a problem but just more work. Note to self : "Don't start cutting corners now Dave".

[mic_VR 3]

Man alive I've just read all through this thread and you, and the other guys who have turbo'd their VR's, have put in some serious amounts of work! :shock:

 

I'd love to do mine but I just don't think I have enough mechanical knowledge, it seems like such a huge job.

Do you have a mechanical background or work for a garage or something?

 

Great job so far though :mrgreen:

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Nice work Dave,when money allows im going to have more pipe and less silicone hose! How long to the D-Day?

 

Im a mechanic and found turbo-ing the VR not so difficult,think its just time and money which stops lads doing this sort of thing!

 

More pics Dave!!!

[CrazyDave 0]

Cheers all!

 

Shouldn't be that long now, I have one big task to finish, the inlet manifold. I need to draw the short manifold in AutoCAD and design the plenum chamber. Then send the files to the laser cutting man. This will all need welding up with the rest of my bits of pipework. Should be ready for a tootle up the road then! :lol:

 

mic_VR I'm a control systems engineer (electronics) and I design engine test cells during the week. The pipework is the worst bit, as knowbody does a turbo kit for a RHD Corrado. But if you can weld or like me know somebody who does, then it's all nuts and bolts really. Oh and a big old dollop of help from the guys and gals on the Corrado Forum!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The turbine cover is from ATP, thought I'd give it a go (about $60 if I remember rightly), not going to be as good as a full jacket but in addition to that I'm going to try and create a heat shielded tunnel to try and encourage the heat down and out underneath the car. Don't know if it'll work but everything will be insulated as much a pos anyway.

 

Yeah it looks good, I might invest. Vince was saying a LOT of heat gets pulled out from underneath and is why so many cars with plastic fuel tanks end up getting melted on the dyno if there's hardly any fuel in there!!

I also cut a slot in my scuttle rubber seal to allow air to be pulled out from the bonnet too. Seems to work. Not had any heat related issues at all, other than the ruptured oil line :lol:

 

Real bad luck on the engine. Set me thinking about how you could have detected it. But I guess the only way is to run EGT on all cylinders. Which isn't that difficult, drill and tap the manifold. Fit 8 thermocouples and some signal conditioning to monitor the difference between the temperatures, any more than a few hundred degrees puts a hugh red light on.

 

Just one of those things I guess. Slightly annoying in that there is no obvious cause. We suspect we just ran it on the dyno too soon after the build, never mind. Unfortunately I didn't wire in the EGT until after the mapping session, which is a shame, but your idea sounds like a good one!

 

I still might need to move the battery to get the charge cooler in, again not much of a problem but just more work. Note to self : "Don't start cutting corners now Dave".

 

I would get one of the little Braille ones from Schimmel's site (or equivalent) as they're really really handy ;-) Mountable at any angle and no concerns with acid fume venting. In fact I'm thinking of mounting mine under the rear arm rest......keeps the weight between the axles too, LOL!

[chargecooler 0]

I have it on good authority that those PWR cores have quite a big boost loss and the Bosch pumps are known to fail. I could of course, have said nothing and let you buy from there, but my conscience won't allow it, sorry!

 

 

Strange, Ive never had a single pump returned, and you can bet your bottom dollar 99.9% of them came from me :wink:

 

The pump is a magnetic drive, so no physical connection from the motor to the inpeller, so there is no way it can leak, no shaft to break, no seals to rupture, no odd loads on any 'bearings' that can fail, no way it can go 'out of balance', it doesnt affect it if it 'runs dry' etc etc.... The only thing that could go wrong, is if simply the motor simply decides one day to stop, but as the motor is designed to run at 100% duty, and is a beefy unit that doesnt even struggle under high loads, this is highly unlikely...

 

As for the pressure drop, its one of the lowest, sub 1.5psi, even when maxing out the rated flow of the core at 20psi + ...

[CrazyDave 0]

Been a few weeks since my last updated, so here goes.

 

I've now finished the pipework, phew! It's all going off to be welded up now.

 

A few changes to the boost pipework to get the chargecooler to fit nicely, no big deal just a bit of hacksawing and filing :) .

 

Well I decided to go for the PWR in the end, nicely made kit it is too. It's the 4 x 10" unit, with the alloy rad, cooling fan, header tank and pump.

 

Kev, I'll just have to see how it goes. I fitted some pre / post cooler measurement points to the pipework, to see how it performs. Don't think boost loss is going to be a problem for me, this turbo is capable of way to much for me anyway :lol: .

 

PWR chargecooler from chargecooler.co.uk

 

Nice thin fins inside the chargecooler, should get the heat away.

 

I had planned to put the CC just above the gearbox, but it was much nicer up top.

 

Pipes swing just past the battery and into the TB. I ditched the airbox in the end, just couldn't get the pipework clearance good enough. So now I've gone for a cone in the wheel arch.

 

Loads of clearance! Should get a set of MSD coilpacks in here as well, cheers for the info Kev!

 

Front panel fitted to check CC rad clearance. It's tight, might have to trim a bit off.....

 

First bits of the inlet manifold.

 

Fits in the gap OK. Main radiator cooling is now with an 11" SPAL fan. Should be more than enough. And the weight saving is amazing, the standard fans must weigh about 5Kg, SPAL one is about a 1/5th of that. Pipe is for the CC water return, it's now routed underneath out of the way.

 

I put some nice curves on the inlet runner plate and matched the ports with some careful grinding. All this lot now needs welding up.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Thats looking good Dave,loving the intake fab,always wondered how that charge cooler would work under the hood of the Raddo! and you dont have to relocate the battery!

[chargecooler 0]

Looking good, but be wary of any airlocks in the top section of the cooler due to the way its angled/situated. As the core is very high in the engine bay, you really want to have the water inlet/outlets facing as vertically as possible (so air does not get trapped in the core, though it may still get trapped in the pipework if looped back down on itsself) and the tank needs to be the highest part in the system (which may be tricky.. - where are you going to put it?)

[CrazyDave 0]

Cheers James, it all fits really nice. I may move the battery still, will see how heavy it all feels on the road.

 

chargecooler, I was going to ask you about that. I had planned to angle the pipes up as much as space will allow. the header tank will go as high up as bonnet clearance allows, next to the main header tank, which should be just enough. I want to add a bleed screw to the top hose to get all the air out. When the manifold is in place it will all sit pretty level and I need to fab a support bracket to keep it all in place.