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The Forced Induction 16V Thread

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hi any one know or have one of these covering the abf 16v engine need some specs

 

will buy borrow steal etc lol

 

in english would be good

what specs do you need?

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hi dude

 

torque settings erm bearings 1st undersize + any useful bits

 

i have a v.a.g service book for a g60 (engine and digi 1) and that was well helpful when i built my last couple of g60s

 

ordered h-beam and W

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Yeah the boost return section of the G60 TB should fit the Passat one ok.

 

Yes I do indeed intend to run digi and an ISV, especially as a function of the ISV in the boosted setup is to act as an overboost controller. You could get around it by using a blow off valve, I think BBM do a boost pipe kit with that option.

 

You are probably going to need to tap some feeds/takeoffs into the 'rocco inlet manifold, the ISV need to have the return as close as possible directly into the inlet mani.

 

I figure I need the following connections:

 

1 x 3.5mm take off for FPR (Going to tap inlet manifold)

1 x 3.5mm take off for ECU (Pressure sensor inside Digi ECU)

1 x 3.5mm take off for MFA (Using existing take off from the brake servo connection on manifold)

1 x large bore take off for brake servo

1 x large bore return for ISV

 

Got the taps (generic engineering taps to suit airline connector thread sizes) and the connectors (company called airlines) just need to order the correct size drill bits.

 

So you going to make 3 holes and t-off the other two connectios a-la g60!?

How do you make these taps air tight Yan?

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Heh, missed a tap too another 3.5mm is needed for the boost pressure gauge but will probably T-piece another union for it.

 

Just going to drill the manifold and tap a thread/s into it. A spot of PTFE tape on the way in should ensure it is air tight.

 

If that does not work its wet assembly with some high temp silicone stuff.

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hi be carefull where you put tap for ecu signal

i had to add this on my 16v turbo running s2 manifold and thottle i will check if it needs to go just before or just after butterfly in thottle as i got it wrong first and it ran super rich like a pig

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hi be carefull where you put tap for ecu signal

i had to add this on my 16v turbo running s2 manifold and thottle i will check if it needs to go just before or just after butterfly in throttle as i got it wrong first and it ran super rich like a pig

 

I would have thought it would need to be just after for a MAP sensor no?

 

I have left my mark3 haynes manual at work.

I'm off at the mo but should be passing in there at the end of the week.

I remember thinking that the later Haynes manual has quite alot of technical data about the abf engine so ...

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hi be carefull where you put tap for ecu signal

i had to add this on my 16v turbo running s2 manifold and thottle i will check if it needs to go just before or just after butterfly in thottle as i got it wrong first and it ran super rich like a pig

 

Yeah the G60 pickup is off a tap on the TB housing so Digi will be mapped to use the pressure that is generated from there.

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For those mounting their alternators under their chargers.What ribbed belts are people using on their 16v g's?

 

Standard belts?

 

cheers.

 

bump 8)

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I will be just using a standard 6 rib poly belt.

 

As for length that is going to vary depending on number of idler pulleys and location, as well as alt location and tensioning.

 

Best thing to do is build it up and then wrap some string around the pulleys, mark the correct length without pulling it too hard and then measure. Still a bit of a guesstimate but it will put you fairly close.

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i bpught one for my mate,its ok for the money,but its cheap cos it states its 100% stainless but get you magnet out and its a part mild steel and stainless...but it works and is still working after 3k of abuse!

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fair enough for the money cant be all that bad if people want stainless i can supply equal lentgh manifolds like these below for 16v ?

 

very very good quality see below

 

pic is of 20v but just for idea

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What do people think of this exhaust manifold? Is it likely to be poo? Is 321 stainless steel any good for this application?

 

321 and 321H are the best materials for the runners and 12mm thick 304 is fine for the flanges.

 

That particular one looks a bit weedy. The runner bore is good though as you need small bores to pulse the turbo faster, but I suspect the gauge of the tube at that price is going to be very thin. A point further emphasised by the use of bracing. Good manis don't need bracing.

 

The fact of the matter is a GOOD tubular manifold will not break. It's the crap ones that do and then everyone tars them with the same brush.

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Hi guys -

My name is Kevin, I'm from the states and I'm new to the forums. I found this website by way of VWvortex and I have been sneaking around here researching information for my engine build. I currently have a 90 G60 with the standard mods that I have owned for almost 11 years, but now I want to build a 16v turbo. This is my first engine build and I have some questions. I have a 2.0 ABA block with oil squirters and I have a line on both a 1.8 and 2.0 16v head. Is there a difference between them? What cams should I get? Also, what am I going to need for pulleys and other miscellaneous parts to complete the build. I haven't decided which turbo I'm going to use yet, I want it to boost fairly quick and make decent power.

 

There is a lot of great information here, I have some studying to do!

 

Thanks in advance for the help,

Kev

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