Neuspeed 160 Degree thermostat questions

[Son of a Beesting 0]

Hiya

 

Just wondered what peoples opionions of these were? I am going to replace the thermostat so is this better than O.E.?

 

The engine is pretty much standard but I want to look after it in the long term.

 

Is there a better termostat to get? Where would people recommend I get it from, awesome gti?

 

Thanks

[Crasher 3]

Why do this if you don't have a problem? The standard thermostat opens at 80°c (which is low compared to other VAG cars) and the Neuspeed one opens at 71.11°c.

[RS VR6 0]

I have it in my car...runs fine. I noticed a drop in oil temps too.

[eatthis 0]

i thought the stock stat opened at 90?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Why do this if you don't have a problem? The standard thermostat opens at 80°c (which is low compared to other VAG cars) and the Neuspeed one opens at 71.11°c.

 

Agreed, no need for the Neuspeed one.....unless you live in extremely hot climates.

 

The ECU will over fuel the engine if the coolant temp is too low, especially in winter.

[Crasher 3]

i thought the stock stat opened at 90?

 

ETKA syas 80.

[eatthis 0]

do the fans come on at 90 or something then?

coz my water temp goes straight to 90 over a few minutes then never budges

[Crasher 3]

The switch closes at 95°c and goes off at 84°c for speed one. The second speed comes in at 102°c and goes out at 91°c inside the operating range of speed 1.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

And speed 3 is triggered at 120 degrees (black sender in stat housing).

 

You should never hear speed 3 under normal driving.

 

Such is it's redundancy, I wired it up to an override on the dash and flicked it on in heavy summer traffic when the needle started climbing disconcertingly.

 

Speed 3 is the proper effective one, the other speeds just fart on the radiator and pretty cr@p to be honest. The amount of current the motor draws on 3 is slightly alarming. The VDO volt gauge drops to 11V when that kicks in, so I removed the whole over engineered, over heavy pile of junk and fitted a pair of 11" spal slimline fans instead. More efficient, quieter, weigh hardly anything and MUCH cheaper to replace when / if they fail and MUCH less current draw.

[PeteC 0]

80 Deg. is fine for the standard engine. The 70 Deg. items are avaliable primarily for track applications or for high power road motors where the combustion chambers will be running much hotter than they would during normal road use. Same thing really goes for plugs, std. are fine/best for normal use but one grade cooler is very usefull when combustion temperatures are up from std.

One thing I've realised in the short time that I've been adding coment is that the 'what's best' question really needs to be clearly defined wrt the state of tune and application, otherwise it's easy to upset a generally well ballanced OE solution.

[BeavisJem 0]

don't want to hijack the thread but my water temps never go higher than 85, normal driving it sits around 75-80. It used to sit at 100 all day long before the coolant change.

 

Is this something to be concerned about?

 

Its just a standard gsf stat

 

Cheers

 

Beavisjem

[PeteC 0]

You need to clarify whether you just changed the coolant or also the stat. Old stats tend to corrode and stick a little so it's not a surprise to see slightly elevated temps such as yours, a new stat would explain the temp changes. If it's only the coolant you've changed then I would speculate that the change is because the anti corrosion additives have cleared a restriction in the system, stat or rad probably.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Highly unlikely to be 75.

 

Clean the terminals for the dash sender. Yellow 4 pole sender in stat housing.

 

If in doubt, use an indepedant temp gauge.

[BeavisJem 0]

cheers, back to son of a beesting's thread :)

[Son of a Beesting 0]

cheers, back to son of a beesting's thread :)

 

Thats alright got a regular one now.

 

Glad you got your issue sorted as well though :D 8)