VR6 Cooling questions (Major Breakthrough - Last Page )

[Goldie 2]

Right, quick update on the cooler stat....

 

Not god update im afraid, on a long run im seeing temps oil 100, which is good but water only 75 which i reckon is too cold... I drove 350 miles last night with no stops and averaged 31 mpg, im used to getting 34-5mpg, doesnt sound a lot but its a drop of 10%...

 

So, i reckon for this type of driving its too cold... I have a feeling i may be onto another stat very shortly... Intend to see Jimmi in the next couple of days and have a look at my original stat and take it from there....

 

So watch this space for progress, still no fans but fingers crossed ill solve that problem at the same time.....

[fla 9]

Let me know how you short this out as i think speed 1 is a redundant speed. It should really only be speeds 2 and three, which i want to wire sup so they come on at 90 and 105C.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So you're saying that if you bridge both the red and red/black wires with the ignition on, neither speed comes on? As you've already tried another controller, you must either have fecked wiring or the fan motor itself is fecked.

 

Every VR6 owner would be doing themselves an enormous favour by ditching the ridiculous stock fan system and just running one SPAL fan direct off Speed 1. That's all you need....and shift 10Kg off the car's nose at the same time.

[Goldie 2]

I intend to try another fan motor in the next few days...

 

running one SPAL fan direct off Speed 1.

 

Tell me more.....

 

So you're saying that if you bridge both the red and red/black wires with the ignition on, neither speed comes on?

 

Thats right, i get nothing apart from the run on pump.... (ignition off)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You pull out the factory fans and fit one slimline SPAL fan instead. Much more efficient, much quieter, much lighter, much less current draw.....all gains, no drawbacks.

 

You won't get any fan activity from speed 2 or 3 with the rad switch bridged and the ignition off. Only speed 1 is direct to battery.

[Goldie 2]

You pull out the factory fans and fit one slimline SPAL fan instead. Much more efficient, much quieter, much lighter, much less current draw.....all gains, no drawbacks.

 

When it comes to wiring one of these up then what temp should it be kicking in??

 

Any suggestions on a good place to get one of these??

[fla 9]

Any suggestions on a good place to get one of these??

 

yes, ebay, for between £25 and £50. You can get either an 11" or 12" fan (I've got the former) but there is not much in it in terms of volume of air moved.

[Goldie 2]

Ill keep my eyes peeled then...

 

Is the wiring easy??

[Goldie 2]

Ive typed SPAL into ebay and there are loads of them..

 

Is there a particular type i should be looking at and how does it connect the original plug???

[double-6s 0]

Did you take the fan/temp control unit thingy off my blue car in the end mate?

 

You wouldn't believe my luck - the one on my black car died yesterday :(

[Goldie 2]

Did you take the fan/temp control unit thingy off my blue car in the end mate?

 

I did mate.Its no good for my car, its got a different number of connections..

 

Its in my garage in Pompey, soon as a i get back ill bring it back..

[M15 VW 0]

Goldie, did the fan control module that we gave dan for you work?

[Goldie 2]

Goldie, did the fan control module that we gave dan for you work?

 

Ive yet to try it Nikki, the stat me and Dan out in has made the car run too cold so the plan is to change that (3rd stat in a week) and then with Jimmis guidance am going to try and sort the fan side of the problem out..

 

If it doesnt change anything ill post it back to you so you can sell it on.. If it does work then i owe you the going rate. I appreciate the loan of it, i reckon the problem is onlt gonna get sorted by trying bits until it goes.....

[M15 VW 0]

yeh no problem. If you want to try any other parts out and we have them just say. No bother about getting it back to us, can always meet you at a no rice or something.

[Goldie 2]

Have you got another 95 storm i can try please????? :D

 

Im up north at the minute but will be at the May no rice..

 

I think the bits i need to try is another fan motor itself and a load of the cables, nightmere.....

[DanVW 0]

lol :-) think your wiring is ok mate its the fan itself thats faulty you want one of these,

 

http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.asp ... ectricFans

 

have a word with Darren ;-)

[nickeboy 0]

hey, i had the same prob on my vr, always at 110, overheated in traffic a water bubbled over, checked thermostate etc, when it got to 112 the wapping stage three fan came on and it sounded like a hoover craft but then when of and temp climed again,

 

in the end i took the main water pump out the one that runs of the engines belt, i did not think it would be this as it had been replace at 80.000mile, but took it out and there where no blades on it, not one, the only pump must have been the aux pump, because even at idle water came out into the expantion tank and it was circulating, anyway put a new one in and it works a treat, stage one and two fans come on fine, infact it never realy gets that hot around 90 then the fans cut in and never goes higher, oil temp perfect now too, hope it helps

 

nick

[Goldie 2]

Interesting stuff nickeboy, this is a check i havent done...

 

I am right to say its on the left hand side of the block looking under the bonnet? Is it easy to open and check it? How much was a replacement?

 

Thanks for your help...

[dr_mat 0]

That sounds like the bunny. The water pump is cheap enough, but you need to jack the engine up slightly to remove it so that it clears the chassis leg. If you're going to do that you may aswell replace it anyway.

[Goldie 2]

The water pump is cheap enough,

 

How much is cheap enough??

 

Would it be a case of remove the filter box, jack the engine up and then undo it??

[nickeboy 0]

i think it was around 20-30 pounds from german swedish, and actualy about the same from v dub wow! its on the left hand side of the engine as you look in the engine, there is a guide somewere on this site expaining how, pic's as well. v dub used a pump with plastic blades at first which i gather are garanteed to break so it is very comon for a pump to go, most i guess have been replaced with a metal one by now, but mine had not, the only thing i would say is when you jack the engine up, it has to go up quite a long way, i thought it would break the exhaust but it was ok, and the old pump can be a bit of a pain to get out, i tapped mine with a hammer and end of a screw driver to loosen it then it came out,

 

good luck

 

nick

[Goldie 2]

So when you did this Nick how did your fans come back to life??

 

Mine is the original pump so i reckon it may be worth changing it anyway.

[Goldie 2]

Ok, put another stat in today, its the original one, that makes 3 in six days..

 

Car no runs between 90 and 100 degrees water which is too hot, again!! Oil temps seem perfectly fine at just over 100..

 

This stat used to run at 90 on motorway drives and today it is sitting at more like 98...

 

Not really the outcome i was wanting....

[nickeboy 0]

i dont know why the fans started working, maybe the aux pump is not enought to pump the water properly and trigger all the sensors, but it definatly solved the prob, why do you keep changing the stat, if the bootom hose gets hot its working,

look how much water comes into the expansion tank, mine was a steady trickle before which i thought was ok, but a good stream after, trust me if it has not been changed, it is prob broken, change it and then at the least you know, if you keep runnig it hot you risk warpping the outside cylinders,

 

nick

[VR6 South 0]

Maybe your radiator is knackered? My VR struggles to get to the temp needle moving since I fitted a new one.