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Stan 24v

Anyone recon'd a VR gearbox???

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Has anyone ever reconditioned a VR gearbox? Its just something Ive been thinking about lately. Ive got a nice new shiny engine but my gearbox is 13 yrs old. I know places will do it for about £500 but I was wondering exactly what is involved, what prices and whether it should be left to the pro's or not?

 

So, tell me ;)

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It's not difficult but you do need specialist tools and knowledge.....mainly in the diff float. Get that wrong and the gears will shred themselves to peices in a matter of minutes.

 

If the box isn't in anyway excessively noisy and the synchros are all good, leave it. 02As can do 200K easily....

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Im losing 60 BHP between the fly and wheels Kev, thats why I was thinking about the box. It had a new clutch when the engine went it, but saying that I think it was just a standard VR one. What you reckon?

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Ah but what would you rather have, a higher crank hp figure due to high trans losses, or a lower hp figure due to low trans losses? ;-)

 

That's basically the crux of it!

 

VR6 losses usually are high, averaging around 55hp on stealth's plots. 60hp does sound a smidge on the high side.

 

My trans losses are low at 38hp, but that's largely down to the light wheels and brakes..... but it does mean my crank hp figure is 20hp lower than everyone elses as a result :lol:

 

I doubt your box is the problem, could be anything in the drivetrain....brakes, wheels, tyres etc etc

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Should I be losing that much though, especially considering the relatively young age of the engine?

 

The wheels are standard speedlines, and they have Toyo Proxes T1_Rs on them.

 

It still pulls like a train btw ;)

 

As Dinkus said when I took him for a drive:

 

"It sounds like a V6, but revs like a valver" 8)

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It's nothing to do with the engine mate....

 

The rolling road measures the drivetrain losses against a brake as it coasts down (hence the term Brake hp) and those kind of losses can only come from the drivetrain as the motor isn't in gear, so that's brakes, driveshafts, tyres, geometry etc etc....

 

You should get last month's PPC if possible as it explains rolling roads in great detail and dispels a lot of myths too ;-)

 

Glad you're liking the 24V. They do rev up quick 8)

 

55hp to 60hp is about right though mate......unusually low readings of around 35 (mine 8) ) and high readings of 65-70 are quite rare....but they're out there. At the end of the day, the higher your losses, the higher your crank hp figure will be :lol:

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OK, I think Im getting it now. So theres nothing really wrong with it then?

 

Im gonna start doing some reading I think :oops:

 

Thanks Kev

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It's not difficult but you do need specialist tools and knowledge.....mainly in the diff float.

 

With the diff float, can you not check this with the other end of some verniers? Usually you can measure to 0.1mm and iirc you need to measure a float of about -0.4mm? I'm looking at a "general" refurb to change the main bearings in my box as it has unknown mileage and would appreciate some pointers too. Doesnt SEEM too difficult (famous last words), as long as you dont go about stripping it to the last seal. Anyway, in light of the unknown mileage on my box i'd welcome any suggestions on the bearings and seals worth changing. Just called my local VW and they didnt have a clue which ones needed to be changed, forget about bearing part numbers.

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You should get last month's PPC if possible as it explains rolling roads in great detail and dispels a lot of myths too

 

What a top magazine, I look forward to that as much/more as PVW and I am a true dub head

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