My Clutch on my Corrado 1.8 16v

[reading_corrado 0]

Hello,

 

This is my first post to this site and I could really do with some advice as i try to diagnose the fault with my clutch on a newly purchased 1.8 16v.... :(

 

I have been to see various people, (garages) and been told several different things, but i can't really trust anyone and I don't know enough to be able to believe anyone, so I am hoping someone from here can give me advice i can trust and maybe even advise someone i can go to in the Reading area (BERKS) that wont rip me off, and who knows their VW's.

 

The problem I am having is when I change gear (particularly at speed) into 3rd gear it crunches, (which is quite a problem, obviously!) and it is also difficult to push into 1st sometimes. I have noticed a mechanical 'click' when I push the cluctch right in, almost like it is catching on something, this happens when I change into most gears and only when i push the clutch right in, which I seem to need to do to avoid crunching on 3rd.

 

I have been told (worse case scenerio) gearbox rebuild and quoted £1300...(YIKES), or clutch replacment, £350, but then others have told me maybe the synchro is out (?) and may just need cluctch fluid replacing. I do know it is a hydraulic cluctch so there is no cluch cable to replace, but I am fairly limited on funds right now, (I have about £400 to spend) and I also need new shocks and possible springs as well!! (although I may get away with springs)....

 

Can anyone suggest the best thing to do, or will anyone be prepared to look at it for me? I will drive to places in and around Reading, or call anyone (mobile or landline) for a chat about this....

 

Thanks in advance :wink:

 

Peter

[blue95 0]

Firstly welcome - always great to see another valver on the forum!

 

I had a similar prob with mine, turned out it was the front engine mount, it had completely split.

 

Replaced with one form GSF, difference in gearchange was unbeilveable afterwards! Plus it was a DIY job!

[reading_corrado 0]

Yes, one guy told me that it might be the engine mount.....

 

How can I be sure? Well, I don't suppose I can...

 

I am going to chat to a local mechanic (that works from home) later tonight who has been recommended to me...and i will mention this. or is is something I could do myself???? YIKES again!!!

 

I am willing to 'try' and learn, but I am no mechanic..... :shock:

 

thanks ever so much...

 

and yes, I am very proud to be an owner, but I worry so much....haha

 

peter

[blue95 0]

Visually you can't tell, you can rev the engine and see how far back the engine moves. Watch to see if it lift of the front mount.

 

I only saw how bad mine was after it was removed, it was in 2 pieces (not good). It is probably the cheapest option and worth replacing as it is a known weakspot.

 

To change the mount you need axle stands, trolley jack, good socket set. Plus you need to be confident what you are doing. If not it is not a massive job and should take any mechanic no more than 30 mins

[reading_corrado 0]

Ok.....

 

Thats brilliant. I will will do just that (but not myself!) as i dont have any of those tools...

 

I know the engine is loose, because I noticed it and so did some chap who test drove it the other day...

 

I guess all I can do is try this first, it seems cheap enough for the parts

 

Thanks, I will be back in touch if it makes no differnce to see what I can do next!

 

much appreciated....

 

peter

[davidwort 0]

as blue95 says, plus these boxes are pretty rugged, they take a lot of punishment and it's usually only 2nd gear (synchro) that wears and gives changing problems.

If the worst came to the worst and you needed a new g-box, a good 2nd hand one should be no more than 150 quid.

I'd also put some new gearbox oil ino it, VW stuff from the dealer is only about 4 quid a litre at the moment of which you need two, and it's just 2 17mm drain plugs, very easy to do.

 

bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is a good idea too, it uses the same fluid as the brakes, from the same reservoir, one bleed nipple just down from the reservoir and one near the slave cylinder on top of the gear box, same process as bleeding the brakes.

[reading_corrado 0]

thanks blue95 and davidwort..... you have both been very helpful

 

I will follow your advice and take all these steps first, and see if it makes any difference

 

if no joy, then maybe will have to resort to a new gearbox

 

so you definately don't think it will need a new clutch?

[davidwort 0]

thanks blue95 and davidwort..... you have both been very helpful

 

I will follow your advice and take all these steps first, and see if it makes any difference

 

if no joy, then maybe will have to resort to a new gearbox

 

so you definately don't think it will need a new clutch?

 

can't say you won't need a clutch, but doing the mount and bleeding the clutch circuit wont do any harm, it could be the slave cylinder itself, worth removing and looking at, it's just a couple of bolts and it slides out of the top of the box, you soon see if fluid is leaking out of it although it does have a rubber boot that you'll see when you remove it which might hide leaking a bit. good idea to check it out though, if it is shot a passat one will do the job, get one from a scrappy, tenner at most.

[reading_corrado 0]

Ok....cheers guys

 

You are a great help!!

 

Pete

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

Have been searching lots of posts about replacing the front engine mount. This one is the most relevant (for a valver), but I need a bit more help!

 

I've got a 2.0 16v, and it's the front engine mount by the oil filter that's gone. Andy at PSI said he could get a new one for about £30 I think it was (for a hydraulic one), and half an hours labour, so around about £60 I think. I reckon this is something I can do myself though...

 

So - is this correct?

 

1. Jack up the engine (where do I place the jack, axle stands???)

 

2. remove the engine mount

 

3. replace it, lower the car

 

Seems too easy! Any help greatly appreciated - I don't want to jack the engine up in the wrong place though and screw it up. Also, I read on another thread that I might have to remove a few other things (lights, etc.) to get at it, but that was on a VR. Not sure if it's the same on a valver...

 

Cheers.

[davidwort 0]

that's basically it, just be careful not to jack too far and damage anything, e.g. radiator and fan

 

remove the top (13mm?) nut that holds the bracket to the mount top first, the engine just sits on it anyway it wont go anywhere, then it will separate from the bracket as you lift the engine

 

block of wood between sump and jack is good

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

Cheers mate. Just to clarify - I place the jack under the sump, with a block of wood on top, and then jack this up, and this will be ok to support the weight of the engine whilst I replace the mount? No need for axle stands then..?

 

Thanks for the picture. Have ordered a copy of the Bentley manual in PDF myself. Waiting for it to arrive!

[davidwort 0]

Cheers mate. Just to clarify - I place the jack under the sump, with a block of wood on top, and then jack this up, and this will be ok to support the weight of the engine whilst I replace the mount? No need for axle stands then..?

 

Thanks for the picture. Have ordered a copy of the Bentley manual in PDF myself. Waiting for it to arrive!

 

 

I needed to jack the car up, put it on axle stands and then use the jack on the sump (protected by the wood), it can't go anywhere as there's still the rear and gearbox mounts in place, but you obviously need to lift the engine a bit to slide the mount out.

You're right, I doubt even a standard ride height car you'd be able to get any jack under the sump without sitting it up a bit on axle stands first, even a very low slung trolley jack.

[Toad 0]

If you can find some nice solid blocks of wood. drive the car onto them to get the clearance. makes it a bit more solid and safe to work on then too.

[jonnyboyo 0]

I finally had my front engine mount replaced 3 weeks ago as it had split all the way around. I got one from Gwent VW in Newport for £33 incl delivery, and its a Febbi one which from reading a previous thread are one of the better makes. GSF wanted £37. My local spanner man charged £20 to fit it.

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

Thanks for the tips. really want to have a go at this myself, even though it's a cheap job for a garage to do. Most of the stuff that's gone wrong on my C so far has been big stuff that I can't do, and I'm itching to get under the bonnet with some spanners...

 

Is it safe for me to drive around with the front mount knackered? I've been driving super smooth so the engine doesn't jump around too much. Want to go to the Corrado Summer Scorcher on Saturday, and won't be able to fis the mount before then as I'm waiting for the new part to arrive. It's an hour and a half journey according to Multi-Map, mostly motorways. Any ideas?

[jonnyboyo 0]

I was driving my car around for at least 6 months with the goosed mount. Did plenty of trips back up north (430mile round trip) and the like with no probs. I asked a mechanic if it was safe to drive and he said it was. The car just gave a small thud when setting off in first gear and was generally less nice to drive with the pooped mount. I didn't drive the car hard though as i didn't want to break anything else. However i'm not sure this was best practice though :)

[staffs_til_i_die 0]

Cheers mate. So if my engine falls out, I'll direct the insurance claim to you...

 

Just kidding! It's been knackered for a bit. I just didn't realise. I thought my gear changing had just gone a bit crap. Will be getting it fixed next week.