Rebuilt/Reconditioned VR6

[Fanjita 1]

Hi all, i'm looking for a bit of help here.

 

Basically my rado has covered 130k and im looking to either rebuild or get a reconed engine. Can you tell me what would be best? how much am i looking to pay to get this done roughly?

 

also does anyone know any places in or around Norwich that can offer any service like this? I'm fairly new to this all so any help would be appreciated, just not very sure on what to do!

 

its a 1994 VR6 2.9 just want to get it running like new again!

 

cheers,

Jim

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Is there any obvious problem with the engine? 130k may seem a high mileage, but unless it is burning a lot of oil or has horrible rattles, such as timing chains, then it's probably quite sound.

 

A top end overhaul might be of benefit. Stealth Racing do a timing chains/tensioners, clutch and head refurb for about £1500. A rebuilt bottom end will probably be an additional £2000 (guessing there, someone will know better)

 

More likely problems will be associated with faulty sensors such as the MAF, the water temperature sensor, or the lambda probe; rebuilding the engine won't cure those.

 

So long as they are looked after, by which I mean regular oil and filter changes and no overheating, these engines will go on for a lot longer than 130k. Mine is currently on 206k.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[ziderapple 0]

I'm currently doing a rebuild on my engine, mine has 127k on it, it was fine untill I added a supercharger then it started to smoke. I got hold of a head off a Golf which had only covered 40k so thats going on, head gasket set, piston rings, big end bearings and head and rod bolts, all OE parts (not main dealer though) parts cost around 500, add another 300 if you need new chains and clutch ( I did mine 3k miles ago). The reason I'm doing this work is because my engine needed it, if I was running a stock engine with a good service history that has no knocks, rattles and is not smoking then I would leave it (prob be wise to do the chains et al though).

 

As said above with care, stay below 3000rpm untill warm etc, then the VR6 engine will stay happy for many miles.

[dukest 0]

how much work are you expecting all that to be for you Chris?

[Fanjita 1]

sorry i didnt really describe my situation. firstly im used to quiet engines, my previous car was a 2002 astra sri (1.8), so I may just be fussy here. It's developing a tapping noise on the drivers side at the top. Now i know not much work has been done before, the guy told me it's had new tensioners + Pulleys and he says the cylinders are in very good condition, no signs of wear or anything when the head was off to change the gasket. It's not exactly loud, you probably couldnt pick it up on a camcorder, but its still there, if you get me. Might even be worth me trying to record it to see what you all think though!

 

It runs beautifully, the power is still there and it roars like nothing else, but partly due to the tapping at idle, and partly for peace of mind, i think it could do with a bit of work. I saw a guy selling a reconed head which had been ported and polished on this forum, im considering just buying that and getting a garage to fit it? I would do it myself but time isnt really with me at the mo. Do you think just doing this would be ok? obviously we all want to save money, my end goal is to supercharge it, as i've been reliably(I hope) told that the cylinders and bottom end are immaculate, maybe just replacing the head would be sufficient?

 

Jim

[Mike Edwards 0]

What oil are you using? If it's not 20w50 semi-synthetic at the moment, try it and see what happens.

 

New tappets are the next think to try, and are a lot cheaper than a full rebuild.

[Fanjita 1]

not sure about the oil. I understand its probably just the tappets, but id really like to give it all an overhaul, so if there's a rebuilt head going, my thoughts are why not?

 

unless you would disagree, I mean in the term of things there's a lot more going on in the head than at the bottom end, so maybe leave that one for a bit and get the head sorted?

[Mike Edwards 0]

Check the oil 1st.

 

Too thin an oil will make the head clatter like a very clattery thing (I worked hard on that one).

 

If this fixes it, leave it alone unless you're planning to do something serious.

[ziderapple 0]

how much work are you expecting all that to be for you Chris?

 

Enough.... viewtopic.php?t=54505

[Mike Edwards 0]

You've done all that - the tappets are easy.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Most VW heads from the 80s/90s get a little tappety as they get on a bit. Replacing the tappets doesn't always fix it unfortunately and you won't ever get it totally silent. Lift up the bonnet of a MK5 GTI when it's running and you might think your VR6 is quiet by comparison....and BMW M engines are hardly a paragon of refinement in the noise department either.

 

A thicker oil might help a little as already mentioned, but I'd rather you used 10 or 15W/50. 20W/50 is like pumping treacle over the winter. Actually, we don't get winters any more in this country....sod it....go for the 20W/50!

[dr_mat 0]

Try replacing the oil pump and/or the water pump. Any rattles in those can be transmitted up the block and sound like they're coming from the head.

[mattkh 0]

Hi

The noise could even be the serpentine belt tensioner.

[Fanjita 1]

when i bought it the guy said its had tensioners + pulleys replaced? i hope its not that!!

[mattkh 0]

Hi

Any chance of a recording

[Fanjita 1]

yeah ill sort one out soon, will my photobucket account host videos?

[rixy 0]

im the one selling the ported/ polished vr head you mentioned.

 

I have just had a complete engine rebuild, no nut / bolt or screw untouched, and used all genuine VW parts from main dealer. Only the best for the storm, lol.

 

Parts cost me over 1400.00 on their own, then machining work on engine cost about 800 quid, that was for rebore (2.8 block to 2.9), re ground crank x 2, skimmed head x 2, new valve guides in 2 heads

 

Then labour cost me about 700.00 to strip my block, acid dip it, paint it, rebuild it, including one head fully rebuilt and ported.

 

So thats over 2900.00 for a complete rebuild. And my god is it nice to finally drive the damn thing again, lol, i missed the vr growl.

[StormchargedVR6 0]

im the one selling the ported/ polished vr head you mentioned.

 

I have just had a complete engine rebuild, no nut / bolt or screw untouched, and used all genuine VW parts from main dealer. Only the best for the storm, lol.

 

Parts cost me over 1400.00 on their own, then machining work on engine cost about 800 quid, that was for rebore (2.8 block to 2.9), re ground crank x 2, skimmed head x 2, new valve guides in 2 heads

 

Then labour cost me about 700.00 to strip my block, acid dip it, paint it, rebuild it, including one head fully rebuilt and ported.

 

So thats over 2900.00 for a complete rebuild. And my god is it nice to finally drive the damn thing again, lol, i missed the vr growl.

 

 

You could bought a 3.0 Motor from states for that :?

[rixy 0]

yeah, but its not the same, wanted to keep a 2.9 and deffo wanted to keep to 12 valves.

 

I dont consider it as that expensive really, seen as i plan to keep the car for eternity, and now i know the inns and outs of the whole car, everything is new, and it should last for another 150k miles at least :D

[Fanjita 1]

Here's the video of it. I swear my mobile has made it sound louder!! never seems that loud!

We had the intake off earlier so i thought i might aswell get the rocker cover off, pics also.

 

http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m110/Fanjita_2006/?action=view&current=MOV00166-0.flv

 

see what you all make of that!!

[steve @ 0]

Doesn't look to be much oil in there.(looks clean though has it been refurbed?) Might be wise to get the oil pressure checked.

[Fanjita 1]

see i was thinking that steve, but my old man insisted it was fine. Surely if the oil wasnt being pumped up properly my warning light would be on?? how much to get it pressure tested? Jim

[jagr 0]

see i was thinking that steve, but my old man insisted it was fine. Surely if the oil wasnt being pumped up properly my warning light would be on?? how much to get it pressure tested? Jim

 

If you see my thread here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59951

 

Mine was'nt getting enough oil to the head and no Oil Warning light came on.