Albie 0 Posted August 27, 2007 Hi all. I have agreed to take on the task of seeing if there is interest in collecting as many of the engine torque settings as possible to make a master Wiki entry for this engine, (only!) If you see this and can help with even a single entry please post in this thread and I will collate them and take it from there. Everyone knows that there is a shortage of a good affordable reference manual for the average Corrado owner and finding and remembering torque settings is one area which is a constant pain to the uninitiated, (like me). To have a full list of engine torque settings on hand would be really helpful to many of us. Please note, we are only talking about engine settings here, not the whole car! If you see any you disagree with please post too, not to argue the point, but to question it, clarify it and get things right. Also, if you can offer an alternative setting for some pieces of kit, like maybe a different type of bolt used on some models, please give us the alternative and be a bit specific about what it relates to. Remember, I know "my engines" but not necessarily "my engine". I can only post info as accurate as you give me. This is a bit of an experiment but could turn into something useful if we all pull together, and if this succeeds maybe others will take on the other engine codes. 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted August 27, 2007 Ok, let me start you off. 1) Head bolts on mine are 40lb, then 60lb, then 90deg, then 90deg. This is for the type which do have a washer under them. I know there is another without washers but I'm not sure what these need. 2) Cam bearing stud nuts 11lb, according to the Autotech document which I posted a link to elsewhere. This seems to be the subject of a few opinions and is very awkward to set in my experience. 3) Exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt 48lb. 4) Inlet manifold support brackets 15lb. 5) Inlet manifold joint bolts 15lb. 6) Big End bolts/nuts 22lb, then 90deg. 7) Valve cover bolts 7.2lb. (How are you going to torque that?) 8 ) Timing belt tensioner nut 33lb. 9) Additional information, timing belt should be tightened until there is only 45deg of play. (This is different to the usual 90deg on 8V engines). Could anyone please confirm that these settings are correct? I will not assume they are until one or two others have posted agreement. Most of these have come from the useful Autotech doc I mentioned earlier. There are lots more to add, please help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted August 27, 2007 8. Timing belt tensioner 45nm (33ft-lb) should only be for the stud thats the same width on both ends 25nm (20ish ft-lb) For the stud that is wider at one end... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted August 27, 2007 not sure this will work but we'll see2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDoc1.doc[/attachment:340ca]Doc2.doc[/attachment:340ca] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted August 27, 2007 Woah there! Easypops you are a star. I'll pull the settings out of your 2 screenshots and start a document which can be transferred to Wiki straight away. I don't think you have every combination in there, I notice your big end bolts are the non-renewable types for example whereas mine are the stretch type, so everyone else please keep posting info, even if you duplicate stuff it will make sure we get as much as we can. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted August 27, 2007 We need to know a few more specific things now. There are 2 types of cylinder head bolts. Do the settings, (40lb ft, 60lb ft, +90deg, +90deg), apply to both types? Do variants of the big end and main bearing bolts exist, ie "must renew stretch" and "re-usable non-stretch"? Anyone have figures for the crankshaft pulley/damper bolt, (BIG!)? There are variants in this for sure. Anyone have figures for the flywheel/driveplate bolts? What about distributor to Head bolts? Although this has proved to be much faster than I had imagined it would be, any more info would still be useful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted August 27, 2007 I thought the point of a Wiki was accuracy! The head bolt torque setting is 40 Nm, then 60Nm then 90+90 degrees. If you torque them to 40 lbft that is 55.25Nm and 60 lbft is 81.34Nm so by the time you have applied 180 degrees you will have exceeded the yield point of the head bolt. The head bolts are differentiated by ridges on the head of the bolt so bolt A is for composite gaskets and bolt B is for metal gaskets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted August 28, 2007 Absolutely right Crasher, we must have accuracy. But aren't you missing the point whereby posting the settings in this thread first was meant to sort out any inaccuracies before posting it in the Wiki! I could have just started entering directly into a Wiki page and let it grow there but I share your desire to keep things right. Thanks for your input, it is clearly needed to keep everything correct. Easypops posted his 2 documents which gave a great listing of most of the values needed. His doc clearly shows 40Nm and 60Nm, it's completely my mistake in listing them here as 40 and 60 lb ft, but it is a typo and not in any way a finished form. But that just proves how much we need others like yourself to check things out and clear them, and nothing will be finally entered until it has been fully cleared. Also, there is the ability of other members to edit and clarify anything which ends up on the Wiki. So that's one major correction and a useful piece of additional information about the head bolts which we now have. Maybe I could send you a final draft to proof read when we reach an end point, I would appreciate someone taking on that job. Just a careful read through of the list and a nod of the head would be sufficient. Thanks. Now in the interests of increasing that same accuracy, we can differentiate between those smooth and ridged head bolts. Smooth non-ridged bolts are for composite and those with ridges round the edge are for metal gaskets? I know there are some which take washers and some which do not, where do they come in the picture? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted August 28, 2007 Run the list by me by all means, I would be only too glad to help. Info for the 9A can be awkward to come by. The head bolt washer (056 103 377) question is confusing as I have never bought any like that new but have removed them from earlier KR engines. When I buy new head bolts (I always use FEBI), they always come with integrated non removable washers. If you ever get onto head bolts for the ABV and metal gaskets, that can get confusing as different manufactures have different opinions as to whether or not there is a difference between bolts for composite and metal gaskets although in this case they are referring to the Sharan/T4 VR6 engine. I forgot to mention the bolt part numbers, 027 103 385 C for composite gaskets and 053 103 385 for metal gaskets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted August 28, 2007 That's more great info Crasher. Thanks for your help. I will start pulling things together for the Wiki in a day or two and we can get you to check over the finished info. It looks as though the best way of getting it into the Wiki proper will be through the moderators, so the document you check will be the finished one that gets submitted. That seems safest, (in other words I can't make any further mistakes if I don't edit anything after that point.) I hadn't thought of including part numbers but that is a great idea where we can. I don't know whether people like yourself who are experienced with the 9A will be able to access the Wiki doc and add more info directly, but it would be useful if you could. That way it takes away the problem of having more info constantly dribbling in needing to be included, and having to bother moderators all the time, (I'm sure one or two actually have lives to get on with!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted September 7, 2007 ... 7) Valve cover bolts 7.2lb. (How are you going to torque that?)... I've just very gently nipped them up with a spot of threadlock on the threads, if you do them to the correct torque they seem to undo themselves! perhaps due to the fact they are squashing down a thick rubber gasket and it's such a low torque setting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albie 0 Posted October 14, 2007 Just resurrecting this idea as I am sure everyone who was initially so helpful has assumed I have just forgotten it. Sorry to have been out of touch for so long but work sent me abroad for weeks and an overseas holiday also got in the way. So I have had a good period away from internet access. I haven't dropped the search, I just haven't had much time to collate everything and put it into a document for checking. Supercharged very kindly gave me access to a lot of info but none of it is absolutely specific to the 2.0L 16V Corrado, just the 9A engine as used in the Passat, so I'm sifting it very carefully before assuming things are the same. And I have only managed to find some of the settings for ancillary stuff in a Corrado general 4 cylinder source. I'm working on it now and hope to have it finished in the not too distant future, (work permitting). In the meantime I will soon be posting a list of settings I haven't been able to find yet which should round the info off. Thanks for your patience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites