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The Forced Induction 8V Thread

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my m8 very kindly has offered me his standard turbo from his coswroth (well least i think it is) for £30 should be more than enough to power the 60 lump i imagine? and he offered me the standard injectors for nothing, will these even fit on mine :confused4:

 

cheers mick

 

if I recall the injectors are the same type, but you would be best to get new seals top and bottom

 

well cool, reakon theyll fuel more than standard ones? and surely the turbo is adequate :norty:

 

again if i recall they are 400cc injectors so should be plenty of room for extra power

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sounds cool to me got em for free, so saves me money, i tryin to do the conversion cheap as possible, i wanna try and run standard managemnt, just upgraded i dotn see y it should have problems, same events occuring merely at different time

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sounds cool to me got em for free, so saves me money, i tryin to do the conversion cheap as possible, i wanna try and run standard managemnt, just upgraded i dotn see y it should have problems, same events occuring merely at different time

Yes and no,..but yeah digifant can cope quite nicely albeit with a re-map.

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cool ive had a word with SNS about it see what they say back, at worst all i can think is the engine wil be woudering y theres no boost low down, then its come into its element once it develops i trying to do te full conversion just shy of wha i sell me charger for. its bound to give an instant power gain as the engine is no longer throwing the chargers pulley around

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Stick up the Bosch part number of your Cossie injectors and we can get the flow rate details.

 

I would check to make sure the Cosworth injectors don't have a split spray pattern, since it has a 16V head. The 8V head needs a single cone or you'll just blast your V power at the intake walls instead of blasting it at the intake valve.

 

The G60 already has high quality injectors of reasonable flow rate, which could be increased with more static rail pressure.

 

And with the turbo, again, need more details. Some old T3 cossie turbos only had 270 degree thrust bearings and are only good for 10 psi. Other cossie T3s had 360 degree bearings and can do 30psi, so quite a difference! Ford fitted quite a few variants of the T3 over the years.

 

Sorry if that's confused you, the parts maybe be perfect for your application, but it's better know for sure before bolting them on :D

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Stick up the Bosch part number of your Cossie injectors and we can get the flow rate details.

 

I would check to make sure the Cosworth injectors don't have a split spray pattern, since it has a 16V head. The 8V head needs a single cone or you'll just blast your V power at the intake walls instead of blasting it at the intake valve.

 

The G60 already has high quality injectors of reasonable flow rate, which could be increased with more static rail pressure.

 

And with the turbo, again, need more details. Some old T3 cossie turbos only had 270 degree thrust bearings and are only good for 10 psi. Other cossie T3s had 360 degree bearings and can do 30psi, so quite a difference! Ford fitted quite a few variants of the T3 over the years.

 

Sorry if that's confused you, the parts maybe be perfect for your application, but it's better know for sure before bolting them on :D

 

 

damn rite nned to check before they go on, ill hopefully have the turbo by tomoro and the injectors so ill have to post then as my charger finishes on ebay in about 25 mins so see wha price i get :D

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A bit of confusion here peeps,

The green Bosch g60 has injectors have 4 holes,i.e split pattern jobs,so that means that the O/E injectors

Would have done the same thing?,i've used weber (385cc)4 hole split pattern injectors on both 8 and 16 valve engines

without any problems and most cosworth fords had weber yellow injectors standard equipment.

All cosworth motored fords fitted with Garret turbos never had 360 degree bearings fitted

by Garret,they all had bronze coloured 270 degree thrust bearings exept the T3/4 Escort

which had an uprated sintered 270 degree iron bearing.

A T3 can run 18/20psi(peak) for quite a bit without problems.

The most important thing to do on any injector is to check the

injector's resistance because if you don't you instantly fry the internal drivers

inside the Digifant ecu and as soon as you try and re-start your corrado it will piss

fuel into the sump.

Remember,Digifant works with high imp.injectors,i.e 13/14 ohm.

Cheesewire,i'm not trying to undermine you,my post is in no way aimed at you in a bad way mate.

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Oh i forgot,

I used an SNS stg.5 chip,Garret T3/4 .48 .60 turbo on 1 of my

old 8valve motors and the chip worked a treat,especially as it got rid

of the horrid digi-lag,lethal for a turbo mill.

In comparison ibought a chip off eBay from Germany already mapped

for a turbo 8v mill and it was shiyte.

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just out of interest is the modifications to the inlet manifold just for clearance of the exhaust manifold, heat shield or turbo?

 

do you need the Mk4 MAP sensor or is that just for the Haltech system? This is one area I am unsure about and wouldn't mind some advice on, I have been looking at a Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, but to start with is a stand alone engine management system required or will a remap be enough to get started with a turbo conversion? Is the polo crank position trigger wheel to give the Haltech system a better idea of where the engine is at any given time? Sorry if these are newbie questions but I have only just started researching the engine management.

 

The mods to the inlet manifold are to clear the turbo and exhaust manifold, basically cut off the support bracket for the original exhaust on the inlet.

 

No you do not need the mk 4 MAP sensor initially if i remember right, the Haltech runs its own MAP sensor so i now dont use the mk 4 sensor.

 

A remap will be suffice enough for now, i ran my curent engine on digifant upto 300bhp 300lb/ft.

 

The crank trigger wheel is for the management to know when to fire as its now been converted to run wasted spark ignition to try and iron out some ignition issues i was having but you dont need to.

 

then its come into its element once it develops i trying to do te full conversion just shy of wha i sell me charger for. its bound to give an instant power gain as the engine is no longer throwing the chargers pulley around

 

I doubt very much your going to do it for what you sell the charger for though mate.

 

It will def give an instant improvement though, a standard engine should see 220bhp and 240lb/ft as a guideline depending on parts used.

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my m8 very kindly has offered me his standard turbo from his coswroth (well least i think it is) for £30 should be more than enough to power the 60 lump i imagine? and he offered me the standard injectors for nothing, will these even fit on mine :confused4:

 

 

There were different turbos as well on the cossies so which 1 is it do you know?

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ill find out which turbo it is off soon as i get the numbers of it, and i kno its going to cost a bit more but i want to at least have a manfold, intercooler and piping so i cant get a start on the car anyway, basical little bits and bobs i kno im going to have to buy but i hoping i can get the main bits as i already have a turbo lined up :D, so then i cant fit 90% up and its just litle fiddle bits i need 8)

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The green Bosch g60 has injectors have 4 holes,i.e split pattern jobs,so that means that the O/E injectors Would have done the same thing?,i've used weber (385cc)4 hole split pattern injectors on both 8 and 16 valve engines without any problems and most cosworth fords had weber yellow injectors standard equipment.

All cosworth motored fords fitted with Garret turbos never had 360 degree bearings fitted

by Garret,they all had bronze coloured 270 degree thrust bearings exept the T3/4 Escort

which had an uprated sintered 270 degree iron bearing.

A T3 can run 18/20psi(peak) for quite a bit without problems.

The most important thing to do on any injector is to check the

injector's resistance because if you don't you instantly fry the internal drivers

inside the Digifant ecu and as soon as you try and re-start your corrado it will piss

fuel into the sump.

Remember,Digifant works with high imp.injectors,i.e 13/14 ohm.

Cheesewire,i'm not trying to undermine you,my post is in no way aimed at you in a bad way mate.

 

No worries mate. I never claim to be 100% accurate :D

 

I've been thinking about buying a 2 Door Sierra Cosworth and did a bit of reading up on them and what I said was regurgitated from various Performance ford magazines, but you're probably right!

 

Nearly all the Bosch 150 series injectors are 4 hole, including the VR6 ones, but it's not the holes that determines the spray pattern. At home I have 210cc, 359cc, 440cc Bosch 150s and they're all 4 hole with single cone atomiser plates. Split pattern will show as two distinct streams on a flow bench. I don't think VW would use a "snake tongue" injector on a 2 valve head, but again, I could be wrong!

 

If you look at the Bosch EV6 used in the 1.8T and 24v VR6, they have twin cone atomiser plates.

 

Some good vid clips of single and dual spray cones here - http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... Path=10_44

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rite got the number of fthe turbo so here goes

 

Garett model 1803 CUSTYB0207 L494588-1 PD0434A

 

any of them usefull? and as regards the injectors they dont work due to the power supply they use, will they work on an 1.8t :confused4:

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anyone? i now haev it in front of me

 

TBo3

 

PD 0434A

 

YB0207

 

these mean anything

 

regards mick

 

well from a little bit of google wacking I found that this is a T3 family turbo (duh) and was also used on the Lotus Esprit turbo and produced 12.4psi and I am guessing this is the car type you got it from : - sierra cowsorth 2.0L P TB0361 G 466962-1 YB0207?

 

I haven't found anything about the turbo in the way of spec for the turbo it self though

 

but this looks like a good place to start reading up on garrett turbos http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/turbo_page.htm

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anyone? i now haev it in front of me

 

TBo3

 

PD 0434A

 

YB0207

 

these mean anything

 

regards mick

 

well from a little bit of google wacking I found that this is a T3 family turbo (duh) and was also used on the Lotus Esprit turbo and produced 12.4psi and I am guessing this is the car type you got it from : - sierra cowsorth 2.0L P TB0361 G 466962-1 YB0207?

 

I haven't found anything about the turbo in the way of spec for the turbo it self though

 

but this looks like a good place to start reading up on garrett turbos http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/turbo_page.htm

 

 

i tried looking all over on google and only found jiberish really :? thanks for the help ill hav a good read now :D

 

some tw*t has just reversed into me car and done off aswell and sxcratched the front bymper and killed the reg plate :( oh joy

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Oh it begins, charger sold, nice big front mount core 540 x 180 x 65 on the :D way turbo manifold and some rather snazy 2.5" piping for intercooler etc, :clap: its like christmas but without the manky pudding :lol: :lol: :lol:

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SOME INTERESTING READING FOR ALL ON TURBO EXHAUSTS afte reading this im definetly opting for the 3" home made system now

 

 

The following excerpts are from Jay Kavanaugh, a turbosystems engineer at Garrett.

 

FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems.

 

N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.

 

For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.

 

Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.

 

Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.

 

As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.

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How hard is it to stick an Eaton charger onto a G60 lump?

 

it is quite a lot of work for not much gain, i prefer the screw style chargers or stick with a g-ladder

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Boost Return Delete????

 

Hi, Just a quickie, Im sure many peeps have Deleted theit Boost Return, but in the kits i have seen they have the Little Breather Filters fot the Cam Cover Breather, and the ISV, But what happens to the Pipe that comes out the Inlet? Is there something that goes on there?

 

Pics would be ace!

 

Cheers, Adam.

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Hi Adam,

 

Most kits come with a K&N filter on the throttle body outlet, which makes a nice noise whilst thrashing the car, but for daily driving it is a bit much. I have ordered a foam filter to see what difference to the noise it makes, will keep you posted and try and get some pics whilst I'm at it!

 

Cheers

 

Steve

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