Rob_B 0 Posted January 3, 2008 the QPE pipe is 2.5 inch. think its the same for the K03 and K04 i think. it was 200 quid plus vat for the K03 pipe which i got. well made, but the lambda probe is a whore to get in in situe! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 10, 2008 can anyone say what throttle cable there using,im doing an apx using qpeng so iv changed to a cable throttle just wondering what cable to use myn looks too short. im goin with the standard pump have you kept the accumulator or ditched that and just gone pump and filter.cheers. iv just got a ko4 down pipe from qpeng and i must say its a nice bit of pipe if your still looking for one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted January 10, 2008 my throtle body is on the left hand side, so i used a thottle cable from a 1.6 carb mk 2 golf. dont know if it would work for the throttle body on the right, i imagine it would. im using the standard G60 pump, which is the huge in tank pump Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 17, 2008 what radiator are you guys using my 16v one is gonna be a real tight fit to get the top pipe on also anyone whos done a tt engine whats this bit here? im using qpeng so theres alot of bits i arnt using its in now and nearly ready to try firing it up :) what did you do with the brake servo pipe,and how did you connect the fuel lines to the corrado ones. i could sort these but wondered if there was an easy way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted January 18, 2008 that is part of the secondary air ayatem i think. dont need it. for the fuel lines i just made some new lines up from rubber hose down to the plastic fuel lines. i used a passet servo hose, as it travels across the back of the engine bay, then joined it to the existing 20V brake servo pipe let us know how you get on, its great starting for th 1st time!! did you buy a complete loom or the DIY kit? oh yeah, using g60 rad, but im going to upgrade the fan as the 20V cooling system runs quite hot i find, even with my oil cooler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 19, 2008 cheers rob il get another servo hose and try that the mk2 cables gonna be fine,my fuel hoses have a crimped on end so im gonna try a few hydraulic places to see if they can make them. if you look at the car from the front are the g60 rad inlet and outlet on the left? or right. cheers stuck now waiting for an intercooler :( its using the full qpeng i sent him the tt loom and he modded it and added 2 stage boost switch&down pipe not cheap but it all just fits and i wanted to keep the clocks and dash as it is and even if i had had my ecu sorted id have still wanted a remap after so i just decided to do it all at once and use qpeng. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted January 19, 2008 the g60 rad inlet and outlet are on the right, near the battery, the top hose comes out on top of the rad though, not the back. if you are going to use the g60 rad, i would allow to get an aftermarket fan as the cooling system on the 20v does run quite hot and the g60 fan struggles i find. you could go with vr6 rad and twin fan set up which seems to work better though. i moved my expansion tank to the left hand side aswell, to allow the cooling system to follow the original skoda layout (i used an octavia engine) what do you mean about the fuel hoses being crimped? ive gone from a g60 to 20v, so i just removed the old rubber fuel hoses and made new ones, attached with jubilee clips. i found ben at qpeng incredibly helpful. even at 10pm when i had a couple of issues he was happy to help me out. that engine will be quick in that car, mine is and im running 230bhp! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 20, 2008 im gonna go with spal fan or fans i wont fit any fans or housings in over 50-60mm,the 16v rad means the hose will be hard against the engine there both on the left looking from the front, i looked at some in gsf but they didnt have a g60 or vr one it says on qpeng they used a 1300 rad but i would have said that would be small i think il need a g60 or vr rad, the fuel hoses where they meet the plastic kjet pipes are crimped onto the fittings on so id have to have new hoses with them fittings on to meet the plastics think the g60 must be different i can just join the 16v and tt ones with a straight conection il try that,i could get through all this no bother but any info or problems i put on here may help others cheers tim :) all been easy so far,its been worse changing the rotty brake lines behind the engine when it was out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1873 0 Posted January 20, 2008 Right Timmy heres the autodata wiring info...sorry it took so long but i had to write it down 1st then type it out.... PLEASE NOTE I CANNOT VERIFY THIS TO BE 100% ACCURATE TO YOUR CAR!!! THIS IS TAKEN STRAIGHT FROM AUTODATA & IVE NOT CONFIRMED IT WITH MY OWN CAR YET.... anyway here it is.. CORRADO 2.0 16V 9A ECU PIN OUTS PIN ] WIRE COLOUR(s) [ ROUTED TO ] 1 ] GREY/WHITE [ DATA LINK CONNECTOR ] 2 ] BLUE/WHITE [ SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR ] 3 ] VIOLET/BLACK [ ENG.COOLANT TEMP SENSOR ] 4 ] RED/WHITE [ DIFF.PRESS.REGULATOR ] 5 ] BROWN/BLUE [ DIFF.PRESS.REGULATOR ] 6 ] GREY [ KNOCK SENSOR 2 ] 7 ] VIOLET [ 02 SENSOR ] 8 ] YELLOW [ KNOCK SENSOR 1 ] 9 ] -------------------[ -------------------------] 10 ] VIOLET/WHITE [ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ] 11 ] GREEN [ IGNITION AMPLIFIER ] 12 ] RED/YELLOW [ FUEL PUMP RELAY ] 13 ] -------------------[ -------------------------] 14 ] BLACK [ IGNITION SWITCH(fuelpump)] 15 ] GREEN/YELLOW [ EVAP.CANNISTER VALVE ] 16 ] BLACK/RED [ COLD START INJECTOR ] 17 ] WHITE [ IDLE AIR VALVE ] 18 ] BROWN/YELLOW [ EARTH ] 19 ] RED [ BATTERY + ] 20 ] BROWN BLACK(AUTO) [ EARTH ] 21 ] RED/WHITE/RED/BLACK[ CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENS.] 22 ] YELLOW [ DATA LINK CONNECTOR ] 23 ] GREY/GREEN [ VOLUME AIRFLOW SENSOR ] 24 ] WHITE [ KNOCK SENSOR #1 ] 25 ] GREEN/BLUE [ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ] 26 ] GREY/RED [ VOLUME AIRFLOW SENSOR ] 27 ] GREEN [ CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ] 28 ] WHITE/RED [ CLOSED TPS SWITCH ] 29 ] RED [ CAMSHAFT POSTION SENSOR ] 30 ] GREEN/WHITE [ CRANK POSITION SENSOR ] 31 ] YELLOW/RED [ TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR ] 32 ] YELLOW/VIOLET [ W.O.T. SWITCH ] 33 ] GREEN/RED(green) [ AIR CON. ] 34 ] BROWN/RED [ TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR ] 35 ] BROWN [ EARTH ] ----------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------- Hope its of some help to you.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 20, 2008 top man thanks alot! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mistrall 0 Posted January 21, 2008 just a quick one , what angine oil would u recomend foe when i have my oil change tomorow , (somthing thats easy to get ) , many thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rado-steve 0 Posted January 23, 2008 Can't Go wrong with Synta Silver Semi-Synthetic from the Stealers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted January 24, 2008 Anyone have any ideas what a rotrex would be like on a 20v engine, thinking about it as a future project for my c. I know storm developments did one but theres no info on their site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mistrall 0 Posted January 26, 2008 i was wondering this too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam16v 0 Posted January 26, 2008 having problems with my conversion wonder if anyone could shed any light on it? Ive fitted a AUQ 20v lump into my corrado and have used q pengs DIY kit. Bascially my car starts and idles fine but as soon as i open the throttle i get quite a nasty miss and occasionally a backfire can be heard through the inlet. I have no problems with the loom have checked all wiring about 3 times and have checked that the TPS and MAP sensor are working correctly which they are. all i have discoverd is that if i disconnect the tps when the engine is running that the car will rev freely as the ecu is fooled into thinking it has wide open throttle? Although running like this does cause it to overfuel and foul the plugs. Well bascially i am totally stumped as to what it could be? any ideas? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted January 26, 2008 call Ben, but i would say its the TPS wiring. which throttle body are you using? make sure you have wired for the correct throttle body. the next thing to give you a misfire is the coil packs. if you can rev the car with the throttle switch unplugged, its prob not these. i would def go down the throttle body route Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam16v 0 Posted January 26, 2008 cheers Rob, yeah will re check my wiring again tomorrow have checked a few times but worth one more look. Will recheck my cam timing also hopefully will get it sorted soon as starting to loose faith! Have called ben a few times and hes ben very helpful really cant fault his service. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam16v 0 Posted January 26, 2008 Throttle body is taken from a scrap Pasat 2l 8v Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 29, 2008 just a few questions to finish my pipes off the problem is im not over sure what to put where as i never saw the engine in the tt, so the pipes im not sure of are 1)first one comes from the turbo and then goes to the front of the engine its bound to another pipe that comes out of the coolant tank around the side of the cam belt cover did this go to the tts rad? 2)on the other side of the engine you have a junction in the hose a black fitting theres a little out let on it what would go on there shud i pipe the coolant tank to thi 3)and on the dv where does the small vacume hose go that goes out of the top of the valve. 4)theres a grey one way valve on the turbo inlet hose where did that go shud i just blank that off thanks alot all the photos of tt engines have there covers on any help would be great :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1873 0 Posted January 30, 2008 I could do with seeing a few converted engine bay pics myself just to get my head round the plumbing side of things....cyber pints for anyone who sticks some up 8) heres a couple of mine so far.......... What box are you using timmmy? what p.s. pump & does your p.s.pipes banjo fitting sit incredibly close to the front crossmember? Does your timing belt cover touch the brake master cyl.? mines is touching but only just no actual pressure not sure i want to chop the timing cover up to stop it though :shock: cheers Lee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 30, 2008 if you havnt got an intercooler or rad,im gonna try an audi 80 rad il let u know how that goes tmrw when it comes my intercoolers in and iv sorted the pipes il do ya a diagram of how im doing the coolant,there was a pump apparently to prevent heatsoak i dont have so il look at that after i try running it, thats what the turbo return went to i think. il post you some pics so far shud be running next week i hope. the power steering pump is my 16v the banjo is a tight one and i think your master cylinder shud be ok like that im leaving mine like that. il have a look at the banjo mite ata take a bit out of the crossmember.. what corrado are you putting that in? im using the 16v box and clutch for the mo. i still need to sort the vac hoses there just loose is it the coolant you want to know how to pipe? i can also say the wiring in that diagram of the pins for the ecu plug isnt for my 1995 9a the wires are different iv still to find the tacho wire if your using qpeng no one seems to have a 9a wiring diagram shud be easy to sort tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1873 0 Posted January 30, 2008 Quality mate cheers 8) Im putting it in this car "N reg valver" same as yours....... :lol: im using the ibiza box etc complete...im lucky i had the whole salvaged donor car 8) i had to change the shift tower on the box but the box bolted straight in after that......i wasnt sure the driveshafts would bolt straight up to the box but ive tested the ibiza shafts on the valver box & they fit so all good 8) i have the standard side mount intercooler here from the ibiza too so im not really sure if its worth me splashing out for for a fmic....anybody know could i maybe just use the standard intercooler & mount it @ the front ? im only looking @ 200bhp for now..... cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted January 30, 2008 is that a pump hanging on that pipe down below ya alternator? wouldnt put a pic of that pump on would ya. are you using qpenq? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1873 0 Posted January 30, 2008 No bother mate gimme 10 mins, :D Yep only just cut up the ibiza loom today to send to Qpeng, everything ive seen about em seems fairly positive with the customer service being 1st class by all accounts along with the ease of installing edited for me being a thick **** :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rado-steve 0 Posted January 30, 2008 No bother mate gimme 10 mins, :D Yep only just cut up the ibiza loom today to send to Qpeng, everything ive seen about em seems fairly positive with the customer service being 1st class by all accounts along with the ease of installing edited for me being a thick **** :) I could have sorted you a Plug and Play loom for 1/2 the price of Qpeng! Anyway, ditch the crappy Std Cooler as they are pants! I'm running a custom FMIC and on awesome's rollers it produced 195bhp!!!! Not bad for a Filter and Cooler :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
