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DIY g-lader rebuild

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My G-lader is at the point where it's blowing more oil than it should through the seals, so I'm going to rebuild it when I'm on spring break next week. Unfortunately I'm doing it myself because I can't afford to have it out for several weeks while I wait for it to get rebuilt.

 

I've heard there are small springs in it. The big thing I'm worried about with those is if they're going to jump out and me and if I have to re-tension them when I put it back together. Does anybody have any experience with this?

 

For reference, this is the guide I'm using: link

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Nothing jumps at you when you seperate it. Im sure g-werks can do it in a few days rather than several weeks.

I took mine apart to port it further, isnt that bad but rebuild kits cost loads anyway so labour from g-werks inc isnt much more

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Nothing jumps at you when you seperate it. Im sure g-werks can do it in a few days rather than several weeks.

I took mine apart to port it further, isnt that bad but rebuild kits cost loads anyway so labour from g-werks inc isnt much more

 

Yeah but shipping to-from Ohio will add the time...

 

Trav, PM Darren on here and I'm sure he'll let you know of any pitfalls..

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I think the 'springs' are the apex springs that sit in the grooves inside the housing and scroller and hold the seal in the right place - from above they are curved to fit the spiral of the scroller, and the circle of where the two halves crack open, and from the side they have a shallow 'seesaw' shape, like this:

 

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

 

They look more fragile than anything else and are very lightweight - you could think of them as being more like flexible spacers than conventional springs.

 

I don't think you'll have any problems with them - just be gentle :wink:

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Remember to use a pair of mole grips or simileur to remove the center shaft's half moon key,can be bastids to get out.

Watch when you go to reassemble the two halfs that the strips don't fall out of their grooves,use heavy grease or Kluber grease to hold the buggers in,time the shafts carefully and note the position of the cogged wheels,especially the timing marks,go carefully when tightening the banjo bolts as they snap very easily,replace the oil line as it's bound to twist as you tighten it's fixing bolt and then leak oil.

Seal the two halves with good quality silicone sealant,don't use too much though.

Always replace the small timing belt with an uprated 12mm jobbie available from G-Werks.

Don't leave exsposed the Magneasium displacer anywere damp as it'll fur up.

Coat all the inner surfaces were the sealing strips run with either thick grease or Kluber grease,prime all bearings using clean engine oil and don't bugger around with the inner seals if they look ok and weren't leaking huge amounts of oil,the G-charger is def. a case were 'If it ain't broke,don't fix it',especially were the internal bearings/seals are concerned...

HTH.

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when i re-ported my charger i cleaned it all up inside but when i put back togethe i only used charger lube.

Do you think i should take it apart and wack a load of grease in there?

What grease should i use as i dont have kluber?

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I've never used the Kluber grease myself 'cos over here in Italy it's hard enuff trying to find a charger,let alone special grease...

I used thick multi purpose bearing stuff,i don't see the need for the Kluber stuff as after a few months the grease gets thrown out by centrafugal force anyway,never had anybody complain off the forum were i've sold three chargers,buyers were always chuffed.

The oil return is most important though,especially on a G-charged valver if,like i did you remove/modify the boost return.

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