Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 6, 2008 I had exactly the same problem on one of my front KW V3 dampers. In the end I removed the strut from the car, cut the old spring perch off and fitted a new one. If you call KW, or G Werks or BalanceMotorsport, they can supply you with a new perch. Mine was free, but don't know how much they are retail. Upon cutting the old perch off, I noticed what looked like melted (?) plastic chunks stuck in the threads, which I can only assume was bits of perch. The perch was binding on these obstructions in the thread. It was just that one damper. The other 3 were perfect, even with a winter's worth of grime and crap on them. To be fair, I took all 4 of my KWs off that weekend to change spring rates and they all came up like new after 8 month's use, inc a winter. I'm very happy with the KWs, the quality is excellent and they just don't rust, which is what blighted my previous coilovers. When you reassamble your struts, here's a few tips:- 1) Use a good PTFE grease on the perchs so tha the springs are free to rotate when adjusting the height. 2) Clean the threads thoroughly with a WD40 and a brass wire brush until they are spotless. 3) Use duct tape on the exposed threads. When you come to readjust in the future, they should just turn by hand :salute: :) I do sympathise mate, but you won't ever find a completely perfect coilover kit in respect of siezing spring perches. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted June 7, 2008 Any chance of a quick review Kev on the V3's, i will be getting them at some point? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted June 8, 2008 Thanks for that Kev - I guess I'll have to whip it off then. Given that you can't relieve the spring pressure on the perch - how do you get the spring off? Remove the top spring mount and hope you don't end up with a spring embedded in your forehead? :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted June 8, 2008 Take the unit of as a complete unit then undo the top securing bolt. Drop me a line and ill send you a pearch for free. Please make sure on replacment that the threads are clean of plastic debris and you only tighten the grub scew to 2nms Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted June 9, 2008 Thanks mate - that's very generous. I'll drop you a line today :notworthy: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60karmann 0 Posted June 9, 2008 I had a little trouble adjusting mine but refering to the manual it says to clean the thread above and below then wind down a couple of turns before winding up, worked a treat for mine, but then again there was no melted plastic on my thread :? hope you get this sorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted June 10, 2008 Thanks all. Kev - How did you cut the old platform off? I've got an angle grinder and a good hacksaw but I don't want the risk damaging the fine threads on the damper body? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 10, 2008 Hey mate I put the strut in a Black & Wrecker workbench (wood easier on threads than a vice!) and hacksawed the perch off. You need to make 2 opposing cuts and it will just drop off in 2 halves :D You will then see what was in the threads to cause the perch to bind. So long as you're careful with the final cuts, you won't damage the threads mate 8) Any chance of a quick review Kev on the V3's, i will be getting them at some point? Yes mate, they're really good. The dampers have a lot of bump and rebound adjustment, which gives you a lot of tuning options. Personally I like hard springs (holds the body up round corners), and mild damping, but if you prefer, you can have softer springs with firmer damping. The V3s work equally well in both setups. Ride quality seems to remain a V3 strong point pretty much regardless of what setup you choose. It's never harsh or jarring. On the downsides, the rear V3 dampers are very noisy. You'll hear a "Phhsssshht" over every bump. Doesn't really bother me, but it might irritate some people :D The rear bump adjustment is very awkward and fiddly once the struts are fitted to the car, but the way the dampers work doesn't allow any other method of adjustment unfortunately. Other than that, can't fault them at all :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted June 10, 2008 I'd add that from a corrossion resistance point of view - I cleaned up the body and thread around where I was working on mine the other day and the surface cleaned up perfectly after a couple of winter's worth of salt. A quick spray with WD40 and a wipe with a rag and you could see your face in them! Thanks for the cutting advice Kev - all I've got to do now is find that most precious of commodities - time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Grrr, seems to be the time of year for this type of problem. Just been adjusting my Variant 1's and guess what - everything was fine until the last one which wouldn't budge :censored: Soooo frustrating, having to go back and put everything else back to how it was.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Neil, send me your address please as i have had a few of these drop through the door for stock this morning Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rixy 0 Posted June 20, 2008 how much is a set of these coilie's then? im after a good set for my vr, and want good handling, and good quality parts etc. I have heard good things about these KW V's 1, 2 and 3. Whats the difference? KW 1 are just height adjustable? 2's are damper? and 3 are damper and rebound? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 20, 2008 V1 - Factory preset Compression and Rebound V2 - Factory preset Compression, Rebound user adjustable V3 - Factory preset high speed compression, Low speed compression and Rebound user adjustable High and Low speed compression relates to damper piston speed, not vehicle speed. High speed compression is often factory preset as it's difficult to setup *properly*. But if you want it, you need 3 way adjustables, but they are ££££s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites