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Rosso

20vT conversion

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alright peeps, im lookin to put a 1.8 20vT in my rado, just a quick question

 

what would be the best engine to use for most power, easy(ish) to fit and most cost effective(i.e. cheap :lol:)

 

im hoping to get something around 270 bhp

 

converting from a 1.8 16v.

 

all my mates are tellin me not to do it cos im gonna have to have a LOT of things custon made which is gonna cos the earth, just wanted to get a few more views on this from some less narrow-minded people who dont think with their wallets.

 

cheers, Ross

xxx

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For 270bhp without a load of other expensive mods look towards the 210/225 engines, such as the BAM. As a rule of thumb, any 1.8T with a K04 turbo will map close to 270bhp without much extra work.

 

Be under no illusion, it's not going to be a five-minute job and it's not going to be cheap. It should be rewarding though, if you go through with it.

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i know for that sort of power id be needing something a k04s turbo and a remap, thinking about an AGU engine with a k04s but id need manifold and injectors to go with that, only thinking about an AGU because aparently theyre easier to fit (and im no professinoal with a spanner.lol) and i wouldnt have to piss about with changing pedal box and all that jazz.

just basically looking for some advise as what would be the best engine for me to go for to get that sort of power for the least amount of cash and custom parts made up (im not a cheap bastard im just not that rich, haha)

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My opinion is still that you should go for a complete package, such as the BAM. Either way you're going to have to mess around with turbos, etc. or the pedal box. There's such a lot of work involved anyway I think you'd be better off fitting the stronger engine in the first place. It's not going to be cheap whatever way you decide to do it, so you might as well make the best job of it you can.

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just by crookseys 16vt rado mate :)

u not sort the head gasket out yet?

 

alright greeny, nah not gonna bother doin headgasket, just gonna whack a 1.8t in it instead, keep the valver engine n add a few trick mods n maybe stick it in a golf when the rado's done, my uncles given me his garage so ive got somewhere to work on it n im buyin a mk2 golf driver later this week (11 months test and a few months tax of £150 :grin: ) just to plod about in till this is done.

 

i would buy crookseys but he want £7500 for it, i know its had a lot more than that spent on it but ive got nowhere near that amount of cash.lol.

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Depends how you mean stronger engine, the AGU block casting is the strongest with the best head for ultimate power, the BAM internals are only stronger on the pistons been forged.

 

I would go with the BAM in your case mate.

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My reasoning is simply that one engine is built for more power than the other from the factory, so would be my choice. I believe the BAM engine had larger, 20mm, wrist pins fitted (to the earlier engines at least; rumour has it that the later ones had 19mm pins but I have no idea if there's any truth in it). The 210bhp AMK engine is widely accepted as being among the stronger-built also.

 

To be honest, I don't think you can go far wrong with any AGU, BAM or AMK engine. All of them will get you where you want to be with a certain amount of fabrication for the conversion and/or tuning.

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I agree the BAM would be best in his situation, looking for his target power as there is no need to upgrade too much for the target power aim, intercooler and re map would suffice.

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf20V codes.jpg[/attachment:1ag324fq]

20V codes 2.jpg[/attachment:1ag324fq]

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only use a 20vt from a mk4 golf, octavia, tt, seat. not a passat or audi (much easier to fit)

you need to use a rear engine mount and front engine mount from you 16v engine.

you can use your 16v gearbox and its mount for the 3rd mount.

you can use a g60 rad or something similar size.

you need an intercooler of some sort with the associated piping

how are you planning to wire the engine up? stand alone or oe managment?

the engine bolts in piece of pee. the wiring can be difficult.

you dont need to do anything with the pedal box if you use stand alone engine managment, you use a throttle cable.

the conversion can be easy if you are prepared to spend the money on stand alone managment. i did mine in a couple of weeks in the evenings and weekends

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All i can say...is see what you can get your hands on, i remeber when i was sourcing a bam engine it was a mission and a half and i didnt get oppurtunity to see it running took a risk but lukily enginge was fine. I had mine converted at Midland Vw known them for a while so kinda sorted me a good price i would say shop around. The bam is the one to go for, not sure on how much they are now tho.

 

Other than that bowy is it worth every penny when its running write!! eveyrone has there own opinion but i went for custom code ecu and it pulls like crazy and still cant get over how smooth it is.

 

Keep us posted on what you get

 

TAKE IT eASY!!

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cheers for the advise people, much appreciated, just got keys to my uncles garage so now i can start lookin for an engine. figured its gonna take a fair few months to do including saving for engine, sourcing engine, gettin it all fitted n wired up then trying to pay for a remap (anyone know any other places that do good remaps? i know custom code is good but i cant stand half the nobs that work at JBS, all think theyve got some sort of god complex about em). as soon as everything starts to come together ill start a build thread up on here.

 

much love

xx

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I've just aquired I pearl grey 1.8 16v rado. The bottom is knocking so am looking towards the 1.8T conversion. I've sourced a low mileage AGU engine, pretty new to the 1.8t conversions habing been used to g40's and g60 16v's.

 

Determined to have a go though, very useful website.

 

ben

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