G60 tuning... your thoughts!!!!

[robsgti 0]

Ok - i have a G60 Corrado (91) which till now has been a completely standard car!

 

I have just removed the original exhaust as it was falling apart and put a full miltek inc cat bypass system on and a jabbasport induction although i am now of the opinion of changing it back to the standard baffled airbox but without the snorkel!

 

The next step is a 68mm pulley and a chip to match running std injectors! This i have ready to fit!

The charger was overhauled at GWerks 4000 miles ago and this equates to about 2yrs in time since done!

I am intending to run it temporarily and then have a stage 4 rebuild either GWerks or Jabba - anyone have opinion on this??

 

In March 09 i am off to the states for a few weeks and intending to get to BBM - fancy one of their intercooler pipe kits - has anyone had any experience of these or do you think its a waste of time and money???? Should i look to a Rallye U Bend and a FMIC (Vito?).....

 

I would really appreciate thoughts on the following areas too....

 

1. Modified throttle body (ported and polished) - any good......?

2. BBM Intercooler Pipe kit?

3. Boost recirc deletion...?

4. SWG OE Airbox kit?

5. Carbon canister filter removal

 

Is there anything else worth doing......?

 

At the moment on testing the charger its reading 1700-1760 in 3rd and i have to say theres not too much low down but then builds well higher up the rev range but for stock - feels good!

 

Look forward to your thoughts and help!

 

:)

[JMC 0]

Welcome to the huge area of G60 tuning Rob :D

 

Best start is a 68mm pulley and chip from G-werks. The SNS chips are very good. You'll be more than fine with that on standard injectors.

 

Next thing would be to save for a FMIC. Ideally a Golf G60 one, but if not, whatever you can fit. The standard Corrado G60 IC is pitiful. You should also start looking at a Mocal oil cooler if you're putting extra power through the system. Definately get rid of the carbon canister plumbing - tidies up the bay, and gets rid of many potential leaks. No experience with the BBM pipework or SWG airbox, although to be honest the standard airbox and VW paper filter is sufficient for a mildly tuned car. Boost recric is fine, but noisy, and you need to make sure the charger gets lubed every now and then, plus ideally you want an oil catch tank. I tried it, and then went back to standard.

 

G-werks stage 4 for the charger rebuild (as you're asking for opinions).

 

Big thing to start saving for is a flowed head and cam. On a standard bottom end, with flowed head and cam, and Golf G60 FMIC with standard injectors I made around 212bhp.

[junkie 0]

My thoughts are expensive and exactly what Jonathon says.

[g60karmann 0]

The next step is a 68mm pulley and a chip to match running std injectors! This i have ready to fit!

The charger was overhauled at GWerks 4000 miles ago and this equates to about 2yrs in time since done!

I am intending to run it temporarily and then have a stage 4 rebuild either GWerks or Jabba - anyone have opinion on this??

 

As your charger was done at GWerks only 4000 miles ago I wouldn't bother with porting until the next re-build in another 36000 miles and the money / power gain isn't that great but obviously if the charger needs re-building then it is worth doing. As mentioned above the biggest gain will be with a big valve flowed head, decent cam and charger cooling system of some kind.

 

I have done the boost return re-route and the noise does pi$$ me off on daily driving and the smell of oil isn't worth it. Saying that I am getting hold of some thicker cotton filters that should cut down the noise and an oil catch tank to sort out the burning oil smell so that might make it easier to live with.

 

First step when you buy any corrado should be to get a decent set of coilovers, ARBs, better brakes and replace as many bushes and bearings as you can. Then you will have a fast and smooth driving car without evening getting more power out of it.

 

P.S. Oh and look into gearing as well as the standard G60 box is a little sort for a force induction engine, I use the VR 1st, 2nd and 5th with a VR clutch and that seems to work very well.

[Neil VR6 0]

What they all said! :lol:

 

I'd definitely get a small oil cooler - G60s run hot when they're boggo standard let alone when you breathe on them.

 

Another few things I'd add which are purely my personal thoughts based on a couple years of G60 ownership:

 

Make sure the engine is in good health to begin with before you start stressing it more. Run a diagnostic check through it and check for boost leaks (smear Fairy round the joins and look for bubbles)

 

Don't pay too much attention to boost pressure - boost pressure is only unused air queuing up in the inlet manifold because the engine can't use it. Think of the engine as an air pump, the more efficient it is the less boost pressure you'll see (see recommendations on porting etc)

 

I wouldn't bother with boost return. It's noisy, can cover your engine in oil mist and means you have to manually lube the charger

 

Don't bother with any kind of open air filter and bear in mind that the best filtration (for your fragile and old blower which costs £800 to replace) is the OE paper filter. Read into that what you will!

 

There's a tuning guide here too:

 

http://fastpurple.com/wiki/g60_tuning_guide.html

[robsgti 0]

Guys, Thanks for your replies!

 

I cant help but think that the basics seem to work after the chip/pulley change - ie head/cam work!

Definately going to run the std airbox and filter and delete the carbon filter!

 

Have looked for the rallye intercooler/ubend kit but its so expensive used and can be hit and missed due to its origins! ie crashed etc...

Is the Merc Sprinter IC worth it with the BBM rsr outlet???? any suggestions?

 

Looked at the 65mm pulley/red top injectors and an sns chip but i get mixed opinions ref this set up and was told by Jabba to run 68mm/chip and std injectors???

 

Boost recirc deletion appears really mixed on opinion! I'm dubious because of this and cant help but think that if VW did it in this manner it must be there for a reason!

 

Chassis of the car is not bad - KW Konigsports coilovers, std anti roll bar setup, brakes have braided lines, decent crossdrilled/grroved discs all round and matching pads and all in all appears fine especially has its just had an MOT! phew!!

 

What i dont want to do is to spend money for the sake of it - I'm hoping to get to a few of the shows this coming year and thought i might show the car so my plans were to get the car to a good drivable std at a reasonable cost! Been out of the scene for a while and want to get back into it!

 

I think i am going to concentrate on the intercooler setup first and then head and cam i guess - any prefs on whos who and whos best etc??

[JMC 0]

I cant help but think that the basics seem to work after the chip/pulley change - ie head/cam work!

Definately going to run the std airbox and filter and delete the carbon filter!

 

Have looked for the rallye intercooler/ubend kit but its so expensive used and can be hit and missed due to its origins! ie crashed etc...

Is the Merc Sprinter IC worth it with the BBM rsr outlet???? any suggestions?

 

Looked at the 65mm pulley/red top injectors and an sns chip but i get mixed opinions ref this set up and was told by Jabba to run 68mm/chip and std injectors???

 

Boost recirc deletion appears really mixed on opinion! I'm dubious because of this and cant help but think that if VW did it in this manner it must be there for a reason!

 

What i dont want to do is to spend money for the sake of it - I'm hoping to get to a few of the shows this coming year and thought i might show the car so my plans were to get the car to a good drivable std at a reasonable cost! Been out of the scene for a while and want to get back into it!

 

I think i am going to concentrate on the intercooler setup first and then head and cam i guess - any prefs on whos who and whos best etc??

 

First round I would recommend i) 68mm pulley with SNS chip, ii) Mocal oil cooler and iii) FMIC of some description. ii) should really be done the sme time as i) but iii) can wait until you source the right one (if that makes sense :lol:). After that then think about head, cam, bigger injectors, 4 branch manifold, exhaust, etc etc.

 

Even the 68mm pulley and SNS chip will make a noticable difference over standard. Do things in stages, and see what differences they cause, otherwise it's too easy to make lots of chnags at once and not know what any of them have done.

[junkie 0]

Although you will see less boost pressure with head work boost pressure is still important, yes the pressure seen on a gauge is the pressurised air waiting to get into the engine due to restriction, when it is going in its going in at that pressure also, so lets say 0.5bar or pressure or 1.0 bar of pressure going in, which 1 will produce more power?

[Neil VR6 0]

Although you will see less boost pressure with head work boost pressure is still important, yes the pressure seen on a gauge is the pressurised air waiting to get into the engine due to restriction, when it is going in its going in at that pressure also, so lets say 0.5bar or pressure or 1.0 bar of pressure going in, which 1 will produce more power?

 

Well the 1 bar obviously - all things being equal. But I'd rather have a set up with a more efficient engine that consumes more boost and shows less on the gauge.

[junkie 0]

Yes i agree with you on that part, have the efficient engine with the boost as well.

[drewiee99 0]

So is head work worth it then, ive thought about it but i took mine on the rollers with just a 70mm pulley it made 194hp & 193lbfts another guy had a 68mm pulley g-werks cnc head and only made 170 ish?

[JMC 0]

A huge amount depends on the mapping too....

[Neil VR6 0]

Absolutely, and so many other variables. That's why it's so important to make sure your engine's in good health to begin with

[peteTDI 0]

So is head work worth it then, ive thought about it but i took mine on the rollers with just a 70mm pulley it made 194hp & 193lbfts another guy had a 68mm pulley g-werks cnc head and only made 170 ish?

 

A huge amount depends on the mapping too....

 

 

i think you might be right about the mapping, i'll let you know after my next remap

[Rustynuts 0]

So is head work worth it then, ive thought about it but i took mine on the rollers with just a 70mm pulley it made 194hp & 193lbfts another guy had a 68mm pulley g-werks cnc head and only made 170 ish?

 

Head work is well worth it, especially if you have enlarged valves and it flowed well. The other guy you talk of has a few issues to sort I would guess. A close look at his torque curve would prob show up the answer, or he just has a boost leak

[drewiee99 0]

ok ive decided to get my head done from andy at http://www.cylinderheaddevelopments.co.uk he quoted me a really good price i couldnt refuse. Ive ordered a 3.5 fpr, but is it worth getting the green injectors cleaned@£90 or going to red tops at £150 i supose i will need to update the sns chip as well?