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Aqua blue pearl VR - p.34 bonnet cable repair

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About time i put some pics up. Just gave it a quick wash, but for some reason the camera picks up dirt that i cant even see. Not the best shots but you get the idea. Wheels will be going soon, back to speedies for a while until they get the potholes sorted.

Edited by fla

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looks great and i'm sure 10 times better in the sun! liking all the matching illuminations too. i should go out in an auto one day - would be interesting to feel what the difference in feel to the engine is :)

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very nice mate, loving the interior!!! i actually really like the way the auto stick looks. looks well nice :)

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Looks great, but i think you need to take pictures in the day withoutthe flash to do it justice :)

 

How many wheels do you have? looks sweet on the 6 spokes 8)

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Looking good mate!

 

Always wondered what cream leather would look like in an Aqua car and as I was travelling down the M40 last night I was wondering what it would be like with different dials and blue illumination. So you have put my mind to rest this morning :D

 

You considering a slight lower, or keeping the ride std? My car is so much slower around the Peak District roads since I lowered mine but it does look better :? What do you do! Do miss really hustling it around the B-roads a bit though :(

 

How is the auto box? Reasonably swift to switch cogs?

 

Matt

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Thanks for the comments guys. Did the lighting myself a good few years back but using some of the guides on the wiki. I had a new gearshift template made up in reverse print and then just stuck that on in place of the old PRND321. Got some chrome edging used around the gearstick, to make it look a bit better. You're all right, it really does need to be lower. It was for a while on the dodgy Konis i bought (from here incidentally), so i will need to get them rebuilt and then refitted.

 

Zak, i've got these, the tt comps and the speedies. Just spent today cleaning and polishing the speedies ready to go on. They've got a few scratches which i need to sort out, but nothing too major. I'll be putting these up for sale shortly, once i've cleaned and polished them, plus a few areas need touching up. Then come summer the comps will be on again. Unless i get rid of them as well and get some replacements....

 

Leonard, the gearchange is now very smooth after i drained and changed the tranny fluid a couple of times, plus a fresh filter. Its nice and easy to drive and does put a few noses out of joint when they see an old m-plate show them up, all those silly type r's and boy racers. I dont normally go over 110 on a private track of course but it is very effortless up to there.

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De-rattled the dash on the weekend. Will post some pics shortly, but the major squeek was from the head unit cage. Put felt packing around all the loose wires and taped anything else loose to suitable mounting places. Duck tape has its uses! The only problem now is that you notice other rattles, the main one being the passenger door card where the lower clip is missing. Then of course the parcel shelf rumble. Will post up the camera phone pics shortly, if anyone wants to see the Corrado birds-nest.

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felt padding and sticking down loose cables in the dash. Takes time, but it is really worth it. I also filled the rear quarters with loft insulation, no pics unfortunately but this has made the single biggest difference to road noise. Plus its cheap and gives you a chance to tape down loose wires and replace broken clips.

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put some foam into the headliner to stop it hitting some of the roof gubbins. Also put some neoprene behind the rear trims, to stop some rattles. Reseated teh new aerial base seal. You really need a second person to hold this down while it is tightened up as its a bummer to refit the nut. Nice tight seal now. Hopeflly less rattles from the rear. Not much time this evening so i didnt manage to take any pics. Its surprising what lurks behind the headliner...

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Just a few pics of things reently done, replaced fuel filter, mileage at 60009 (forgot the camera at 60000, doh), mocal repiping and cutting a new slot in the slam panel.

 

Should have taken some pics of it yesterday after a good wash polish and wax, its already got covered in crap today.

 

I decided not to cut the mocal pipes down just in case i needed to relocate it. I made sure there were soft bends in the pipes, to prevent any pressure buildup, bearing in mind i have the aircon evaporator in front. Also need to fabricate a nice mounting bracket for the LHS of the cooler.

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should have mentioned the pics for the mocal install for those with aircon. Just need to cut a small square in the slam panel for the pipes.

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some shots of when Leon & Zak came over, unfortunately Zak didnt bring his superb motor.

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stripped down and hammerited the clutch master cylinder and clips, cleaned lubed and hammeritied the manual starter motor. My car will be held together with foam and hammerite at this rate. Stripping down the front tomorrow to remove the auto box...miss it already, lazy town driving, bit of kickdown when you need it :( Manual WILL be better though, especially after the 24v (next year), wife permitting :norty: Will post some pics of the job, just in case anyone else wants to go down this mad route!

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Food stuff Hasan, next year is a little far away though isn't it? ;) might be asking for your help before that!!

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cracked on with stripping the front end down, assembling the bits on the gearbox. Cleaned and painted the starter motor, lubed it up and fitted. Picked up a slave cylider from GSF this afternoon. Fitted the clutch release bearing and slotted the arm into the gearbox housing.

Struggled to get the exhaust downpipe nuts off - i'll copper grease them on reassembly. Just for anyone doing the auto to manual, remove the engine plastics and exhaust heat shield to get access to the downpipe bolts. Zaks help yesterday on undoing the pedal box nuts was invaluable. Most of the pipes now removed, rad has been flushed out - contained a fiar amount of red crap even after a flush carried out recently. Strange..

Unfortunately it looks like one of the inner CV joint boots has got a rip in it, so thats another additional task to do :(

Passenger side driveshaft flange to be opened as well as some of the coolant pipes to the dash. I'm not using an engine crane this time as the last time we hired it, it was more of a hindrance. Zak i'll try your solution of dropping the engine down onto the trolley and wheeling it out from the front.

Tomorrow i'll hopefully have the engine out. The gearshift mech needs some major refurb, which i really should have done first. By the way, can you use two heat shields in the exhaust tunnel, ie will they fit and if they do will they cause any issues? I'm trying to reduce the amount of heat in the cabin.

Some pics:

The spals do not fit absolutely centrally in the frame - cant afford crazydaves frame right now, but would love them at anothe stage as a better fitment option.

 

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stripped down the gear selector tower, degreased, cleaned and regreased. Actually i oiled it, greased it up and then sprayed some white grease on the top and on the springs.

 

Just one shot of the inside of the tower - i took the base plate off to get proper access to it. Good i had a spare tower too as the other one i had was not so good! Oiled teh shift cables too by gradually dripping oil down the front boots. Just need some clips to clip the clevis to the gearbox and some bolts to fit the bracket to the top of the gearbox, hopefully VW will oblige...

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