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jimhoughton

Wheel bearing help!

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Hi Guys - I've got a noise that makes my 16v 2.0 sounds a bit like a jet engine coming from nearside rear. I'm fairly sure it's a wheel bearing (the wheels were submerged when a river near me flooded just before xmas). I've been quoted £17 for one from a local garage (make 'q-edge'?) and £5 - £10 for one from GSK and AVS. My mechanic reckons it'll take him 90mins ish. Does this all sounds reasonable? Any advice on which bearings? Should I do both rear wheels or just the one?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

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They are more expensive to have done than you think. VW charge £30 plus per bearing.

 

Whomever you take it to make sure that they have the right presses to fit them.

 

Matt

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VW bearings are £15 each for the kit (SKF bearings) - I wouldn't use anything else at the back as pattern ones don't last and can be dangerous!

 

Yes i'd change both if original along with brake discs, pads and ABS cages.

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2nd vote here for using genuine VW bearing kits. Pattern ones suck - had to have new front bearings on mine less than a year after having GSF ones fitted!

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I guess being lowered and sticking heavy alloys on them doesn't help.. I'd imagine a totally unmodded one doesn't eat bearings as quickly!

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I guess being lowered and sticking heavy alloys on them doesn't help.. I'd imagine a totally unmodded one doesn't eat bearings as quickly!

 

You trying to say my cars to low and my wheels are heavy Jim? :mad2:

 

No you are probably right, sure when my car was std though it used to still get through them circa 10k mile intervals. :confused4:

 

Matt

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I guess being lowered and sticking heavy alloys on them doesn't help.. I'd imagine a totally unmodded one doesn't eat bearings as quickly!

 

You trying to say my cars to low and my wheels are heavy Jim? :mad2:

 

Self concious much?! :) I meant that LOTS of Corrado's are lowered with aftermarket wheels (myself included) - hence why many folks end up going through wheel bearings quickly, especially the cheapy ones.

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There are some very specific procedure for fitting bearings depending on model and age of some models too. The other issue is that few garages will do a decent job of cleaning the bearing mounting faces on the hub, resulting in poor fitting bearings to start with.

 

Oh and the cheapo ones are truly crud.

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10k miles is insane - should last at least 60-80k if not twice that...

 

Are those rear ones? - if no it will be due to poor quality bearings, incorrect fitment or a worn stub axle.

 

As Yan says, fitment is critical, taper style bearings need grease working into them before fitment which is where most people go wrong, I've also need people pack the dust cover with grease which makes the rear seal pop out.

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Self concious much?! :) I meant that LOTS of Corrado's are lowered with aftermarket wheels (myself included) - hence why many folks end up going through wheel bearings quickly, especially the cheapy ones.

 

Was only messing :grin:

 

Just noticed today my right rear bearing is 'whistling'. That will be two years and 7,000 miles since the last change :cuckoo: :(

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just done my front bearings at 165,000 and 18 years, which didn't seem too bad :)

 

neither had to be done, they had no play in them but with the hubs off the car they were a little noisy, the new ones were genuine VAG (needless to say) and about 21 quid each with 10% or so trade discount.

 

Oh, and for the last at least 14 years it's been on eibach springs, so lowered, and harder dampers.

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just done my front bearings at 165,000 and 18 years, which didn't seem too bad :)

 

neither had to be done, they had no play in them but with the hubs off the car they were a little noisy, the new ones were genuine VAG (needless to say) and about 21 quid each with 10% or so trade discount.

 

Oh, and for the last at least 14 years it's been on eibach springs, so lowered, and harder dampers.

 

I hate you, you must drive like a fairy :wink: LOL

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Just noticed today my right rear bearing is 'whistling'. That will be two years and 7,000 miles since the last change

 

Do you know what bearings were used?? surely still under warranty???

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I hate you, you must drive like a fairy :wink: LOL

 

yeah pretty much :lol:

it does get thrown about sometimes :)

 

I reckon rear bearings are some of the worst fitted VW bits, very few mechanics let alone DIYers fit them carefully or properly, myself probably included, particularly the tightening up. They seem to need tightening and slackening a few times before finally setting the nut, perhaps I've been lucky with the pattern ones supplied from GSF but I've had no problems with their rear bearings, they always seem to last the life of the disks, but I do check them from time to time to make sure there's not too much or too little play.

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Just noticed today my right rear bearing is 'whistling'. That will be two years and 7,000 miles since the last change

 

Do you know what bearings were used?? surely still under warranty???

 

I have had the car 8 years (done 40k) and I have had VW do my bearings twice and an independant whom i now use do them once. And now at least one is due to be done again...

 

The first two times were obviously VW parts and the latter I am assuming were VW as Im sure I asked for genuine parts (but who knows). They have only lasted as long as the VW ones anyhow.

 

My car doesnt get a hammering but to be fair the roads where i live in the Peak District arent exactly smooth and I have Koni/Eibach suspension and a front anti roll bar.

 

Matt

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I hate you, you must drive like a fairy :wink: LOL

 

yeah pretty much :lol:

it does get thrown about sometimes :)

 

Im only jealous anyway :lol:

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I'm just about in need - again - of replacement rear wheel bearings.

 

Are there any alternatives to the VW taper-style bearings ?

 

Why taper bearings anyway ? Are ALL rear wheel bearings taper-style ??

 

Edited: Just read other threads covering this. Will fit genuine VW bearings and research 280/Mk4 mods for next time !

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Soooo were any conclusions made on wether there were any possible upgrade bearings available?

 

Or is an upgrade just not possible due to the small size of them?

 

My rear ones have started to go again and I have done 4,000 miles over 18 months :cuckoo:

 

Matt

:(

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I can't see you could use a different bearing without having a different type of stub axle on the back?

All mk2's and mk3 golfs have this type of (mk2 golf style) bearing, I don't think a mk4 stub axle would fit onto a mk2/3/Corrado rear beam, but they certainly have a different design of bearing.

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I can't see you could use a different bearing without having a different type of stub axle on the back?

All mk2's and mk3 golfs have this type of (mk2 golf style) bearing, I don't think a mk4 stub axle would fit onto a mk2/3/Corrado rear beam, but they certainly have a different design of bearing.

 

Yeah that is kind of what I thought. Bummer LOL

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I have only ever had to fit replacement bearings when replacing discs (on mk2s, mk3, & corrados) and have always used whatever bearings come to hand from ECP or G&S (& other motor factors). I have only insisted that they are german. I think a lot of it is in the fitting and not over tightening the bearings (the large washer beneith the big nut should be able to be moved about with the use of a screw driver and afterwards the wheel should have a tiny bit of side movement). I was shown by an old retired mechanic years ago and at the time he said that if you over tighten them they will last no time at all. Also he spotlessly clean the axel first and would work grease right into the bearings before fitting them. There must be something in this as none I have ever fitted have failed (yet) - impending drive home has had fate tempted towards it now!

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I have only ever had to fit replacement bearings when replacing discs (on mk2s, mk3, & corrados) and have always used whatever bearings come to hand from ECP or G&S (& other motor factors). I have only insisted that they are german. I think a lot of it is in the fitting and not over tightening the bearings (the large washer beneith the big nut should be able to be moved about with the use of a screw driver and afterwards the wheel should have a tiny bit of side movement). I was shown by an old retired mechanic years ago and at the time he said that if you over tighten them they will last no time at all. Also he spotlessly clean the axel first and would work grease right into the bearings before fitting them. There must be something in this as none I have ever fitted have failed (yet) - impending drive home has had fate tempted towards it now!

 

Well hopefully without upsetting my mechanic I will pass your wise words on :grin:

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I have only ever had to fit replacement bearings when replacing discs (on mk2s, mk3, & corrados) and have always used whatever bearings come to hand from ECP or G&S (& other motor factors). I have only insisted that they are german. I think a lot of it is in the fitting and not over tightening the bearings (the large washer beneith the big nut should be able to be moved about with the use of a screw driver and afterwards the wheel should have a tiny bit of side movement). I was shown by an old retired mechanic years ago and at the time he said that if you over tighten them they will last no time at all. Also he spotlessly clean the axel first and would work grease right into the bearings before fitting them. There must be something in this as none I have ever fitted have failed (yet) - impending drive home has had fate tempted towards it now!

 

Well hopefully without upsetting my mechanic I will pass your wise words on :grin:

 

I completely agree with all of the above, exactly what I've done and my GSF supplied bearings have always lasted fine, I ask for the Best Quality ones and not the cheapest they have too.

I fit and adjust as descibed above, but find that if you tighten them a bit too much and slacken a few times that helps to settle them in, otherwise you can end up with them too loose.

It's always a good idea to check them again for adjustment after a few miles are on them too.

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Vince @ Stealth said that if your car eats through rear wheel bearings, it can be a sign that the stub axle(s) are shot.. might be worth looking into?

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