replacing heater matrix...

[-Neil- 0]

i know how to do it, read the corrado canada club guide and also another one bout doing it without removing the dash.

 

Im stuck tho, i cant undo this bolt....

 

 

 

it's just above the exhaust downpipe, the whole nut and thread turns, ive tried WD40, and holding the thread with grips, but it just keeps turning, what can i do?

 

I've got the fan part out, after trying to remove the relays above it, had to break them off :( I just cant get the actual matrix bit out, please help!

[corradophil 3]

Just replaced mine and had the same problem.

 

Had to clamp some small mole grips on the end of the stud to hold it whilst undoing the nut. The other end of it has a coarse thread which screws into the plastic housing for the matrix.

[Henny 0]

it's either the method above, or just pull the heater box out inside the car... The housing for the bolt head inside the heater box has rounded out meaning that it's hardly holding anything in anymore... 8)

[bruny 0]

Which replacement marix you guys used, dealers want £117, motor factors want for Valeo £50, GFS want 36+vat for Hella , I've been informed Valeo is OE, but avoid the chinese ones :shrug: Did you replace gaskets as well??? On with mine now, what a ballache of a job :bad-words:

[jimmyvwjunkie 0]

well i have used o blow torch o quickly heat bolts then use a freezing spray (buy it from halfords) should break the seal.

[corradophil 3]

it's either the method above, or just pull the heater box out inside the car... The housing for the bolt head inside the heater box has rounded out meaning that it's hardly holding anything in anymore... 8)

 

Once out I stuck mine all 3 into their holes, so they're nice and solid now.

[Henny 0]

the matrix I put in mine was a Valeo part on J-Dub (back in 2003 I think it was... :? ) and a Hella part in H-YYU (Valeo part wasn't available from GSF anymore when I did the one on H-YYU)... Both seemed to be very good quality...

[-Neil- 0]

ive done mine today, the biggest problem araprt from my hands being cut up too fook is that i cant get the direction dial to move freely, its really sticky, i replaced my controls while back coz of this problem, can it be the cables?

 

I got my matrix from gsf, £47 in total.

 

another question tho, when i start my car back up, do i need to flush the system, as at the mo it'll have an air bubble where there is no water in the martix, or do i just start the car and then fill the water bottle up?

[bruny 0]

Neil, it could be the cable but I suspect its the perished foam on the direction flaps which will have put strain on the actuating lever and cogs. These can be modified by replacing the foam [allow for air passage through the flap holes though or moving position with the fan on will be difficult] The cogs and lever mechanism can be strenghtened with a small bolt and washer through the centre to clamp it in position. I dont know how successful this will be in the long term but heres hoping :shrug: Will put some pics on my gallery shortly.

I've used the veleo matrix from motor factors, identical to the dealers but half the price :shock:

Have not refilled the system yet but thought about priming it up first or I'm sure it will airlock!

[-Neil- 0]

what will happen if i just start the car with no water in the martix? will it push the air around and then end up in the water bottle?

[bruny 0]

Ideally thats what should happen, could try not coupling up the return until you have flow to be sure its not airlocking, alternatively sqeeze the feed pipe. :shrug:

[-Neil- 0]

well i started it, and ran it for a bit, i got some very dodgy sounds from the engine, kinda farting rummbling sounds (air through water pump?) but soon there was hot air blowing through the matrix.

[Slimg60 0]

When I changed mine I left it running for a while and still no hot air, til I reved it slightly and then it was fine.

Good effort though changing the martix, I know how your knuckles feel :salute:

[-Neil- 0]

i look emo! i have cuts and scraps all over my hands! and now my alarm doesnt work, ive dislodged something with the dash out, so altho my heaters now work and my heated seats are now wired up, i cant go anywhere in it!

[bruny 0]

Got mine together again, still truamatised, hope I'll not have to revisit that area again.

My radio isnt working, having upset some wiring somewhere, but just now I dont think that is a priority. Have not refilled the cooling system yet as I am still waiting for replacement core plugs to be refitted. It all had to be done, :shrug: but sometimes you just think is it all worth it :cuckoo:

[-Neil- 0]

Got mine together again, still truamatised, hope I'll not have to revisit that area again.

My radio isnt working, having upset some wiring somewhere

 

welcome to my world, my dash out cost me a £30 call out charge to plug in a wire i had dislodged by mistake.

 

but least now i can lock it.

[VR6 0]

Did you decide on the best way to fill the system back up again? I was thinking a funnel and coolant into the matrix via the pipes running through the bulk head and then filling the rest of the system in the usual way.

[storm_warning 0]

I have to replace mine now after having a mobile sauna on the way into work. But what is all this about replacing it without removing the dash? Can someone link me to a 'how to'?

[-Neil- 0]

there is a guide somewhere, cant rmember where, i tried it, but it was easier to take the dash out.

[corradophil 3]

I had a look at doing it with the dash in, but ended up pulling it out.

[VR6 0]

Did you decide on the best way to fill the system back up again? I was thinking a funnel and coolant into the matrix via the pipes running through the bulk head and then filling the rest of the system in the usual way.

 

??

[storm_warning 0]

Okay, thanks for those replies - looks like it's a dash out for me, too!

 

My biggest problem there is resisting the urge to change to a TT dash and the world of trouble I will cause myself... :gag:

[corradophil 3]

Did you decide on the best way to fill the system back up again? I was thinking a funnel and coolant into the matrix via the pipes running through the bulk head and then filling the rest of the system in the usual way.

 

Once I had reassembled everything, I filled mine via the header tank, untill it was full, then ran the engine with the cap off, and every time the level dropped, topped it up, untill it stopped dropping. Then I ran the car as usual, but keeping an eye on the coolent level. It only needed a tiny bit extra, after being used.

 

This is the way I have always re-filled coolent to a fulkly drained engine, and I have never had any airlock issues.

 

Obviously make sure the engine is cold when topping up with cold water to save risking damage, by the sudden cooling the cold water would cause. Also it saves trying to safely remove the cap from a pressurised system.

[VR6 0]

Excellent, cheers Phil! :salute:

[-Neil- 0]

Did you decide on the best way to fill the system back up again? I was thinking a funnel and coolant into the matrix via the pipes running through the bulk head and then filling the rest of the system in the usual way.

 

Once I had reassembled everything, I filled mine via the header tank, untill it was full, then ran the engine with the cap off, and every time the level dropped, topped it up, untill it stopped dropping. Then I ran the car as usual, but keeping an eye on the coolent level. It only needed a tiny bit extra, after being used.

 

This is the way I have always re-filled coolent to a fulkly drained engine, and I have never had any airlock issues.

 

Obviously make sure the engine is cold when topping up with cold water to save risking damage, by the sudden cooling the cold water would cause. Also it saves trying to safely remove the cap from a pressurised system.

 

 

i second this.