aide 0 Posted May 7, 2009 Hi, fairly simple one i hope! Just dismantled a 9a engine which i intend to rebuild as a fairly high spec valver, 11-12:1 compression ration, uprated head springs etc.... thing is one of the water channells seems to be eating away towards one cylinder! It's thinnest at the block surface and then tapers away, see pic, at thinnest the wall is maybe just over 3mm BUT i intend to overbore by 1mm so the wall would maybe be down to 2.5mm :scratch: I'm guessing this will still be ok, but looking for confirmation? If not, can an engine shop do anything about it? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 7, 2009 oh, that looks a bit dodgy to me, especially if you're boring it out further, I'd show the actual bottom end to an engine builder if you can, I wouldn't want to invest a lot in a block that's suspect :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dukest 0 Posted May 7, 2009 I'm guessing this will still be ok, but looking for confirmation? spare blocks cant be that expensive and if you're doing a high spec rebuild then do you really want to risk it going bang by using one that is obviously suffering at the moment?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted May 7, 2009 That looks horribly corroded to me... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 7, 2009 frig! complete engine was 300 plus 150 pallet to Belfast so they're not cheap, nor easy to come by, especially over here in NI! the ring you can see is the actual cylinder bore so it's corroded to that point and stopped, the bore also bells towards the block surface before thinning down again for the rest of the bore, maybe that photo makes it looks worse than it is! defo don't want to throw time/ money for it to fail, i'll get it the shop and see what they say, cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richardshoes 0 Posted May 7, 2009 Hi. I have a good clean degreased G60 bottom end sitting in my garage. Yours for £250 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 8, 2009 spoke to an engine shop locally and will be dropping it in next week, he says it's possible to weld, grind and then skim it flat.... but will need to see it to be sure, plus a skim will bring the compression higher without using a special gasket! will post back once i have decision in case others have this issue Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 12, 2009 brief update. took it too machine shop, guy referred me to specialist welder who i've just left it with, says it will be no problem to clean it and build it back up - does it a lot on subaru's apparently - will cost £20 to fix! machine shop will then plane block surface to absolute minimum, bore out by a mil, hone and replace intermediate shaft bearings for £109 quid :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted June 3, 2009 got block back today from engine shop, welded and skimmed as photo, just gotta grind the opening to it's original shape and jobs a good un :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 3, 2009 interesting to see that done, I guess most things can be repaired if you know how and have the tools and skill I'd have been worried it would affect the heat transfer from the bore or something wierd happeneing with the original metal and the new metal, but it sounds like the guy knows his stuff and it's safe to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted June 3, 2009 yeh was relieved it could be sorted, the guy who welded it didn't seem surprised to do it at all - made me feel better, or maybe everyone over here are misers who don't want to shell out dosh for new stuff :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
