G60 Still trouble now testing the injectors with meter

[2_Door_fun 0]

As it sez on the tin!

 

My lovely Nugget 60 (91 on a J) just won't play.

 

past her MOT in Jan and now she won't start or rather she will but then won't again.

 

Turn the key the engine fires and away it goes, Revs climb a bit sharpish on start as high as 2K but then drop back and she ticks over fine. You can go out and rag the nuts of the engine and all is fine but turn it of and try again there is a cough and an attempt to fire but then that is it. After that all you get is the engine turning and no attempt to kick at all. Plugs are wet change the plugs and she fires up again? Why or where will the over-fueling be coming from.

 

Bits n Bobs done so far include:

 

New Starter Motor as that was needed

 

New Throttle cable VAG original

 

All 4 injectors removed and cleaned

 

New Injector loom (Original was past its best)

 

Blue temp sensor

 

ECU rely

 

New Dizzy (That was also needed) Not an original part

 

Tested with a 2nd ECU that I have spare and it is def good

 

Fuel pump relay (Fitted last night)

 

Fuel pump retardation Relay (Fitted last night)

 

Also tried a 2nd CO pot to no avail

 

Prob think of some more later on.. Sore head at moment after last nights home brew testing :nuts:

 

Cheers all

 

Rob

[Neil VR6 0]

Is there a sensor which deals with hot starting - something to do with the automatic choke? Over fuelling and wet plugs suggests the ecu thinks the engine is cold when it isn't so pours loads of fuel in for no reason.

[dirtytorque 0]

Sounds like it is for some reason...

Maybe start by changing the BTS?!

[Neil VR6 0]

Stick to OE VAG temp senders too, the patent ones have a bad rep

[Riley 0]

Check the microswitches on the throttle body are activating by listening for a click, and then check them for a change in ohms with a test meter.

Also try unplugging the lambda sensor, its only used on throttle (not tickover or full throttle) so it may be running rich and fouling the plugs for when you attempt to restart it.

 

Neil.

[Riley 0]

Also check the earth leads, behind battery, cylinder head, coil etc etc

 

Neil.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Stick to OE VAG temp senders too, the patent ones have a bad rep

 

 

hmmmm I did replace the BTS a while back and yes it was a pattern part from my local place.

 

Will set about the stealers on Monday.

 

Riley... Cheers for the pointer on the microswitch setup on the TB. I do have a spare set.. What I never actually understod about that setup is the way the tickover switch is mounted the actual armature on the Throttle cable cam can't sctually press it :shrug: The switch is ever so slightly set back on the mounting palte???? So the lever never gets to press it so it clicks.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Yandards 0]

Another vote for the blue temp sensor.

 

If you measure the resistance of the sensor it should be between 3250-4000 ohms at 10 deg C and 2300-2900 ohms at 20 deg C.

 

Otherwise it could be your fuel system is not holding pressure in the after run condition when hot, the fuel pump will run for around 2 minutes even with a leaky fuel system.

 

Both your idle and full throttle microswitches should make contact with the cams on the throttle body at idle and full throttle positions, if its not it will effect fueling and the position of the ISV at startup, so I would look to get your idle microswitch to the right place first.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Greetings to Yan of the Yards.

 

Have checked my replacement VAG BTS this morning.. Rather the technical engineers have up in service where I work. All is well so I'll swap out the pattern model I have in at the moment.

 

Also swapped out my TB Micro Switches last evening for the spare set. On the original set the first switch was missing the ball bearing so I resume the throttle cam lever was not able to press it to click levels.

 

Pulled my plugs again last night soaking they were so as soon as this problem is resolved it will have to be an oil n filter change I reckon. All had a spark though so that's one good sign.

 

My car still has all the carbon canister present.. Could this pos cause any probs?

 

Cheers all for the help it is as ever appreciated.

 

Rob

[2_Door_fun 0]

Right then..

 

New VW Blue Temp Sensor fitted car started superb but no start again... Ticked at 800 and sat there rock solid. oil at 50 and turned it off went for a re-start and nope just the same :shrug:

 

I now have a Bentley and was reading about the ISV.. It sez the on turn of the key the ISV should 'Hum and Vibrate' Also should be between 2 and 10 Ohms across the terminals with a multimeter. I have a spare ISV and during lunch I checked it with a meter its running at 4.8 so that seems OK.. No idea if it hums n vibrates but I'll try it tonight.

 

I was wondering if others are humming n stuff?

 

I noticed that the current ISV just goes click click click when I try to start the car a 2nd time. maybe this is the problem.

 

I was wondering what does the Fuel Pressure switch do?

[2_Door_fun 0]

Hi to all and thanks for the support so far.

 

My spare ISV operates fine it hums and so on so all is well there.

 

After having my kids for the week and my 7 year old son saying 'are you ever going to drive the yellow car dad' Its time to get this machine rolling again...

 

So an interesting thing happened last evening. The car wouldn't start full stop. So after a bit of engine bay prodding I realized that upon turning the key I didn't hear the fuel pump hum.. I dropped the fuse panel and checked there and all was in good order, I turn the key and listen no hum and no 2nd click of the relay.... Sp I am wondering if my pump was the problem all along and its finally died.

 

So I check at the rail there is no fuel in the rail well barley a dribble. I removed the FPR and stuff and also spun the delivery hose off the FPR and still got no fuel from the tank. I assume that its a good enough check to see if teh pump isn't working.. Considering I have a pair of new fuel relays last week.

 

My pump is in the tank under the panel in the boot... I presume I have the single pump setup on a 1991 G60.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[dirtytorque 0]

unplug the isv, and then start your car.

get it warm.

turn off and see if it will start again..

[2_Door_fun 0]

unplug the isv, and then start your car.

get it warm.

turn off and see if it will start again..

 

Huh... :scratch:

 

My car won't start........ As in my last post.. No fuel at the rail.

 

Rob

[dirtytorque 0]

unplug the isv, and then start your car.

get it warm.

turn off and see if it will start again..

 

Huh... :scratch:

 

My car won't start........ As in my last post.. No fuel at the rail.

 

Rob

 

 

sorry guilty of skim reading.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Well I'm still having terrible time with the old yellow peril.

 

Again starts perfectly first thing and runs a treat but will not start a 2nd time..

 

I have pulled my injectors and tested em with a Fluke Multimeter.. In the Bentley it sez that the injectors should be between 15 - 20 Ohms each. Upon checking all my injectors are running between 15.5 - 15.9 Ohms...

 

What do you think is that cutting things a little fine.. I'll have a loom test later tonight when I borrow the meter tonight.. Measured the injectors on the test bench at work.