How should i sort out this rust? (pics)

[-Neil- 0]

I have these rust issues which keep getting worse, i wanted to get them sorted proffesionaly but i just cant afford it.

How could i tackle them myself for the mean time?

 

A little step by step guide would be good please!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

Neil

[davidwort 0]

rear sill nr arch looks nasty, more than surface rust there, that really needs welding, the other bits you really need to grind back to clean metal, acid etch prime and touch up with a spray can.

with the tailgate, you can pull the outer seal out, then you've got better access to the rust at the edge of the glass, it just pushes back in.

[-Neil- 0]

well i pulled the rubber out round the rear window, got a nice 2" hole under it, plugged it up with bathroom sealant for now, but im guessing new tailgate :(

[davidwort 0]

at least tailgates are one of the cheaper 2nd hand bits to source as they rarely get damaged in smashes, they don't seem to sell well on e-bay, although finding the right colour is the main problem.

[Guest]

The guy a bought a subframe from off ebay last month had loads of parts from a breaking white VR. Was a late one.

 

I've got his details of you wanted to contact him to see if he's still got it.

He is south of Leeds, just off the M62, J27, the Ikea junction.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Go to B&Q and get a rust / paint removing wheel to put in a drill (needs to be a powerful drill if you've got one) and just dig all the rust out. Keep grinding until you find shiney metal.

 

Once ground out, treat any pitted areas with a decent rust converter. Kurust I don't really recommend tbh, but as you're on a budget it will do. The main objective at this stage is stop the rust spreading until such a time you can afford professional rectification work, so don't worry too much about getting a perfect finish.

 

Once the Kurust has gone off, flat it back with a scotch pad (or a scouring pad from the kitchen) and then prime. Good quality primer is essential and I recommend U-Pol Acid etch (red can), which Halfords sell. Once primed you need to build up the layers to match the unaffected paint. You can do this with high build filler primer, davids isopon or a stone chip protection compound.

 

Once you're happy you're not going to be left with a very obvious 'step' in the repair, simply mask off and top coat.

 

A tip with top coating is to move the masking tape along a few mm before laquering, and flat back the colour coat where the masking line is. This will avoid an obvious line / step in the finished repair.

 

It sounds simple, and it is tbh, but you'll see what needs doing as you go long. The end result is 95% down to surface preperation. Spraying the top coat on is the quickest and easiest bit, so take your time and take advantage of the time of year whilst you can - paints and primers dry a LOT quicker over summer and there's less humidity in the air.

[herisites 0]

...This will avoid an obvious line / step in the finished repair.

 

Unless you get the wrong colour match hey Kev :lol:

[Anton Sobriquet 0]

treat any pitted areas with a decent rust converter. Kurust I don't really recommend tbh, but as you're on a budget it will do

 

What would be best to use if you're on a less restricted budget?

[Kempy 0]

I got some bad rust on my side repeater. I want to remove and fill tbh, Is this something that I can do or will welding be required?

[Pat_McCrotch 0]

Kev is the man for rust repair. He's now got two Corrado's to worry about rust-wise :lol: :wink:

 

As has been said; it's all about the preperation before painting and catching it as early as you can :salute: Make sure you've got decent sandpaper, primer, paint, wet n' dry Sandpaper etc etc. I thought I would have a go at doing my sills and didn't have half the things I needed so although it's watertight it looks jank. I'm a little bit more prepared now :grin:

[mrbeige 0]

POR 15 do a rust 'killer', that's supposed to be very good.

[coullstar 0]

Giving this a go in the next couple of weeks. Supposed to be pretty good.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What would be best to use if you're on a less restricted budget?

 

TBPH, none of them are ideal. New Metal is the only permanent solution, but the best rust converters are FE-123 and Dinitrol RC800. There's a few others around too. The best you can expect from a rust converter is to stop the rot spreading and infecting clean metal, but it should buy you some time until A) yet get bored of the car and sell it, or B) can afford a full professional derust and repaint :D

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/rust-converters.cfm

[Jay2 0]

Just finished a temporary repair to the top of my rear wheel arch and the main thing you need is PATIENCE and it will still stick out like a sore thumb! :(

 

Will hopefully last untill funds are available for a trip to bodyshop. :clap:

[krnau 0]

rear sill nr arch looks nasty, more than surface rust there, that really needs welding, the other bits you really need to grind back to clean metal, acid etch prime and touch up with a spray can.

with the tailgate, you can pull the outer seal out, then you've got better access to the rust at the edge of the glass, it just pushes back in.

won't it break?

is it as easy as "pull it out" and "push back in"?

 

sorry for hijacking but I thought that starting a new thread on this wasn't needed

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

Put her in a good bodyshop which u trust ;) lol

[g60greeny 0]

the cars now bein broken for bits :(