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rajarella

Intermittent starting problem

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Right I am having some issues with my vr6. Started a couple of months back out of the blue and has been pretty constant since. I have done a search and am thinking it could be the starter motor but not sure if there is also something else not right.

 

Quite often when I turn the key nothing at all happens. All dash lights are on and the immobiliser is dis-armed. I can hear a buzzing but the engine doesn't even attempt to turn over. I can keep turning the key for a while and it may start but where as before it used to fire up immediately now it takes longer turning over and sounds weak.

 

Another thing that happens is the car seems to miss as I am driving. When I stick my foot down it can sometimes drop power dramatically before picking back up again.

 

I am not sure if all these problems are linked but it would be good if they were!

 

Rich

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Lots of odd symptoms there – could be a problem with more than one thing. I’d definitely run VAGCOM through it and see what errors it throws up. Starting issue could be ignition switch or ignition relay (both common problems). I was going to say fuel pump relay too but if you hear a wirring sound when you twist the key it sounds like the pump is priming so that sounds OK. In any case these 2 relays are weak points and both cheap as chips to replace. The tuning over issue and dodgy running could be ignition related or something like a crank position sensor. Rough running can be anything from a bu66ered MAF to fuelling issues. If the issues change according to whether the engine’s hot or cold it could be a temp sender – another common fault on all Corrados. If you’re not confident with engines I’d take it to someone who knows VRs

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How old is your battery? My G60 had similar problems when the battery was getting tired. If you have a multimeter check your battery voltage, should be around 12.2v after being left overnight with alarm/immobiliser set, then check voltage with engine running, it should rise to 13v -13.5v to prove alternator is ok. Batterys seem to last about 4-5 yrs in my car maybe because I do a lot of short journeys. Last time I had this problem I thought it was the starter or solenoid or electrical connections because I had the same as you, ign/oil lights on & wirring from the pump but no response when key turned to crank engine, when I checked the battery voltage it was approx 11.6v.

I didnt have any running problems once it was started but then the G60 is a very different beast to the VR6.

A new battery fixed mine, I hope yours can be fixed as easily.

Mick

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The buzzing when turning ignition on 'could' be the aux water pump - does the sound come from the front or rear of the car?

 

I've had lots of starting issues over the last few months - finally replaced fuel pump relay (67), which just about cured all of them. I still get a very occasional non-start which I suspect is the ignition switch (again!). Have a new one, but haven't got round to putting in in yet.

 

Also, don't discount the battery as said above. I've just had to replace mine, and was suprised how much livelier the car was to drive, I guess the alternator was loaded up constantly previously.

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Cheers for the info guys. I am not sure how old the battery is, I have had the car 3 years and never replaced it. Maybe it is time for a new one. The buzzing comes from the front of the car on the right hand side of the engine, is this where the cold start valve is?

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Right starting problem has now gone from intermittent to permanent. I had the battery tested and it is working fine. If the ignition switch is the problem would the fuel pump kick in ok? It seems everything is working apart from the engine turning over. I tried giving the starter a tap with a hammer and it worked once but not since.

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I don't think the issue is the immobiliser on mine because I can bump start it. I am going to change the ignition switch anyway because it is cheap!

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Has anyone got any photos relating to changing the ignition switch. I am following the wiki but because I have no idea where the ignition switch is or what it looks like I am struggling a bit.

 

Ignore me, just found a photo attached to a link on the wiki.

 

Rich

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Changing the ignition switch made no difference. I put a tester on the live lead going to the solenoid on the starter and go was getting 8v on turnover. Is that enough juice?

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I'm having exactly the same issue as you mate and im currently struggling to change my switch (to the point i have tried levering the old switch out and its now in 6 differnet parts!!) but i cant see/get access to the switch retaining screw, i have had a look on wiki and i cant see where the removal/replacement instructions are? Any help much appreciated...Cheers

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Right I have had enough!! This problem is still ongoing. So far I have;

 

Tried a new ignition switch (not fully fitted, just plugged in and turned with a screwdriver)

Changed the starter motor

Changed the battery

Changed relay 67

Changed relay 109

Cleaned up earth points behind battery and on gearbox

 

I don't know what else to try, this problem is costing me a small fortune so far and I am still none the wiser. What do I try next? :shrug:

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I've just cured a similar problem (I hope), my occasional starting issue suddenly turned into a complete non-start issue. I changed the ECU relay, ignition switch, fuel pump relay was already new. Even tried the crank sensor - got a cheap one off ebay. None made a difference.

 

Found that the ECU connector was damp, there was wet dead leaves and stuff in the scuttle area - I suspect this was causing a humid atmosphere around the ECU. Sprayed everything in WD40 pending proper clean up and 20 minutes later it started first time and has benn fine since.

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After a night of re-tracing my steps I have finally sorted it!! It was the ignition switch but ALSO two of the wires going into the connector were terminated properly! I can't believe it I am chuffed but so pi$$ed off at the same time :censored:

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