borarob 0 Posted August 10, 2009 guys, having done some reading (searching on this very forum), I've decided that in addition to my drilled airbox I'd like to try removing the snorkel to see what difference that makes. as i say I have searched but couldn't find answers to all my questions 1. how exactly do you remove the snorkel, can anyone provide a step by step for me on this? I've had a quick go but it doesn't easily want to move in any of the directions I've wiggled it! 2. I guess I'll know if i get the above info, but is this mod reversible? cheers all oh its a 1.8 valver btw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted August 10, 2009 it's quite tightly wedged in but it does just slide out I've found it does (when removed) very slightly improve the pull from about 5,000rpm to the red line at 7,200 on an engine with a 2L bottom end (flowed head and 1.8 cams) and no holes in the airbox, but if you've already drilled the airbox there's little point in removing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borarob 0 Posted August 10, 2009 so i guess that is slide out from the front. in which case i suppose you need to be able to remove the bottom half of the airbox from the engine bay.. or can it be done whilst still 'connected' but with bungees undone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted August 10, 2009 You need to take the lower half of the airbox out, then tap the snorkel out with a hammer. However, as David says, there's little point as you've already drilled the box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted August 11, 2009 :dorky: To give the snorkel its proper name, the helmholtz resonator, it's primary job is to reduce induction noise. :dorky: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abdul 0 Posted August 11, 2009 it's quite tightly wedged in but it does just slide out I've found it does (when removed) very slightly improve the pull from about 5,000rpm to the red line at 7,200 on an engine with a 2L bottom end (flowed head and 1.8 cams) and no holes in the airbox, but if you've already drilled the airbox there's little point in removing it. Bit random but is the KR head better than the 9a head then?? Would a flowed kr head go straigh on a 9a bottom? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted August 11, 2009 Bit random but is the KR head better than the 9a head then?? Would a flowed kr head go straigh on a 9a bottom? a KR head flowed or not will go on a 9A block, some say the slight casting differences of some of the 1.8 heads (they don't have some of the water channels around the ports the 9A heads do) make them a little better at the top end as standard, but KR or 9A heads are all much the same when ported/flowed. An ABF head is the better standard head, again not major differences but as they are the last development of the 16v head by VW and designed for a higher revving 2L engine than the 9A, they are about the best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abdul 0 Posted August 12, 2009 Bit random but is the KR head better than the 9a head then?? Would a flowed kr head go straigh on a 9a bottom? a KR head flowed or not will go on a 9A block, some say the slight casting differences of some of the 1.8 heads (they don't have some of the water channels around the ports the 9A heads do) make them a little better at the top end as standard, but KR or 9A heads are all much the same when ported/flowed. An ABF head is the better standard head, again not major differences but as they are the last development of the 16v head by VW and designed for a higher revving 2L engine than the 9A, they are about the best. Ah cheers for clearing that up dude. Ive been thinking about dropping an Abf into my rado but they have alluminium sumps so that pretty much rules them out along with 1.8T's etc. If only Vw carried on developin the valvers and didnt go turbo crazy :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Swompy 0 Posted August 12, 2009 Im planning on removing my snorkel or the helmholtz resonator if you prefer :dorky: and was just wondering weither removing it will cause the engine to suck in warm air from the engine bay? Also were is the best place to get a cold air feed from, in a valver? Sorry for the high jack :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abdul 0 Posted August 13, 2009 Im planning on removing my snorkel or the helmholtz resonator if you prefer :dorky: and was just wondering weither removing it will cause the engine to suck in warm air from the engine bay? Also were is the best place to get a cold air feed from, in a valver? Sorry for the high jack :D I dont think it makes a difference. My airbox is drilled to fuck and the snorkel is removed and tbh the car performs the same, just sounds alot more crazy. Nice colour u got btw. :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted August 13, 2009 there's been a few discussions about this and I think the general consensus seems to be that on a standard (and non-forced induction) car, especially one with a smaller engine and more space in the engine bay, like the 16v, there's little need for a cold air pickup. Once you get moving the flow of air is so great under the bonnet heat isn't going to be a problem. My 1.6 16v mk4 actually has the standard inlet to the air box under the bonnet near the top of the radiator! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Swompy 0 Posted August 13, 2009 Im planning on removing my snorkel or the helmholtz resonator if you prefer :dorky: and was just wondering weither removing it will cause the engine to suck in warm air from the engine bay? Also were is the best place to get a cold air feed from, in a valver? Sorry for the high jack :D I dont think it makes a difference. My airbox is drilled to **** and the snorkel is removed and tbh the car performs the same, just sounds alot more crazy. Nice colour u got btw. :lol: there's been a few discussions about this and I think the general consensus seems to be that on a standard (and non-forced induction) car, especially one with a smaller engine and more space in the engine bay, like the 16v, there's little need for a cold air pickup. Once you get moving the flow of air is so great under the bonnet heat isn't going to be a problem. My 1.6 16v mk4 actually has the standard inlet to the air box under the bonnet near the top of the radiator! Ahh right ok was just wondering thats all. Thanks Abdul, same to you to :grin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites