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bigrichi

Change Blue temp sensor, now heaters wont blow hot?

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I recently changed the blue temp sensor on my VR6 recently.

Was the first time I'd done it and being an amateur I dropped all the coolent.

 

So I changed the sensor and refilled the coolent but now the interior blowers wont blow hot.

 

What have I done guys???

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You have put an air lock in it mate, not sure how easy it is on the vr6 but should be easy enough.

Try running it with the coolant cap off, and its best topped up from the top rad hose i think, generally a bit of squeezing the pipes might help :norty:

I'm sure someone of proper knowledge will be along soon enough :lol:

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Have used the search and think I may well have an airlock.

 

Have tried running it with the cap off until up to temp but hasnt made any difference.

 

I am cosidering draining all the coolent and refilling but when you refill, do you refill with the engine running??

 

If anybody wants to post up a quick dumb dumb's guide I'd be over the moon :nuts:

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Have used the search and think I may well have an airlock.

 

Have tried running it with the cap off until up to temp but hasnt made any difference.

 

I am cosidering draining all the coolent and refilling but when you refill, do you refill with the engine running??

 

If anybody wants to post up a quick dumb dumb's guide I'd be over the moon :nuts:

 

The only tip that really works is: take your time - pour in the coolant at a slow pace and in a steady stream.

 

Oh, and make sure your heater is set to maximum before you start filling.

 

Once up to the MAX mark, start the engine but leave the cap off. Let it warm up a little, switch off the engine and top back up to max.

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and squeeze as many hoses as you can (the top rad is the one you really want tho) once up to temp (so the stat is open) with the cap off. wear gloves if you don't have asbestos hands.

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Yeah as mentioned really, it'll be an air lock. Run the car with the heaters on full blast whilst squeezing pipes, let it get to temperature and when the stat opens (about 90 degrees) the level should drop, keep it topped up. Keep squeezing pipes (as said they'll get pretty hot so wear gloves or use something to squeeze them!) and air should gradually work its way out, you'll know if you have a big air lock as eventually it will come out and the water level will drop again.

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Drain coolant.

Set heater to hot.

Remove cap on expansion tank.

Remove top rad hose and fill slowly from there - whilst sqeezing hoses, when you cannot get any more in re-connect hose, top up expansion tank and run engine, keep squeezing hoses and top up as required. As mentioned above when stat opens the level should drop - top up then turn off engine and allow to cool.

 

Always done it this way and have never had an air lock.

 

HTH

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Cheers guys,

Had a go at this last night but still the same.

Still icy cold air, actually seems colder than when i have it set to cold :lol:

 

Dunno if i ran it up to proper temp tho?? you say run it until the stat opens, do you mean until the fans kick in??

 

are the 2 pipes that run into/out of the matrix located in the middle, to the back of the bay, if you are standing in front of the engine?? One has a silver heat sleeve on mines.

if so these are both hot when the car is running so could my problem be something else??

 

I HATE CARS :help:

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The thermostat opens when the temperature gauge on the dashboard reaches about 80. By this time the heater matrix will already be hot, so you should *already* have hot air.

You don't need the thermostat "on full" when you're doing the filling up, btw, that was advice for very old cars where the heater matrix didn't get any water from the engine unless you twiddled the knob on the dashboard - all modern cars give the heater matrix a constant supply and redirect the AIR instead of the water.

I might be inclined to think your heater matrix bypass valve has kicked in ... or your heater adjusters on the dashboard are no longer connected to the air guides..

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I might be inclined to think your heater matrix bypass valve has kicked in ... or your heater adjusters on the dashboard are no longer connected to the air guides..

 

Not sure its the adjusters, everything worked perfect until i changed the temp sensor and dropped all the coolent. they havent blown hot since i refilled it/

 

can i check the bypass valve myself??

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The thermostat opens when the temperature gauge on the dashboard reaches about 80. By this time the heater matrix will already be hot, so you should *already* have hot air.

You don't need the thermostat "on full" when you're doing the filling up, btw, that was advice for very old cars where the heater matrix didn't get any water from the engine unless you twiddled the knob on the dashboard - all modern cars give the heater matrix a constant supply and redirect the AIR instead of the water.

I might be inclined to think your heater matrix bypass valve has kicked in ... or your heater adjusters on the dashboard are no longer connected to the air guides..

 

100 brucey bonus points to you....stripped out the heater controls last night and something isnt quite right, the hot/cold one will only adjust it to cold,it will turn towards hot but doesnt actually move the arm on the inside.

 

Have adjusted the arm manually and now i have hot air :clap:

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