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jimbobbalooba

VR6 Engine Removal

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Hi All,

 

I've spent some time searching the forum(s) for any advice on engine removal. This will be taking place for me on the 24th April and it's the first time I've taken out an engine. Andi has thankfully offered to assist in exchange for curry and beer but I was wondering if anybody else had any advice.

 

I'm open to all advice really; general pitfalls, things to look out for... "don't forget to undo this nut first" for example.

 

FYI I'll be using an engine hoist with chain and will then transfer to 450KG Engine frame that my wife has bought me for my birthday (Thanks baby!!xx)

 

The front of the car is off and I'm in the midst of draining all fluids. http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/04 ... e-removal/

 

Please feel free to mention anything that you think will be useful!!!

 

Thanks

 

Jim

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Just thought I would mention that I think you website is really good......nice one mate, I'm sure it will help a lot of people in the future - more power to you :salute:

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its not too difficult tbh. Just take your time and go around teh engine making sure nothing remains connected. Driveshaft bolts can be a pain, so be careful not to strip heads - might be worth getting a new set just in case. I would remove the cooling pipe for the power steering and then refit it once youve removed the rad support panel. The exhasut downpipe nuts are tricky - you'll need to be flexible! Take your time on that, they may be easier to attack from underneath with a wobble attacment on teh extensions.

Apart from that, there's nothing major to be overly concerned about. Best of luck and have fun!

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I have to swap VR engines in a couple of weeks too and I'm in the same position, having never swapped an engine before!

 

I don't currently have an engine lift, but as I'm taking the whole front end off anyway, can I just wheel engines in and out on a bottle jack? Is it ok to support an engine with all the weight on the sump? I guess you'd put a wooden board between the jack and sump?

 

Also, can you just undo the bolts joining the downpipe to the cat instead of the manifold bolts? I would of thought they'd be easier to get to?

 

Thanks,

Andy

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Just thought I would mention that I think you website is really good......nice one mate, I'm sure it will help a lot of people in the future - more power to you :salute:

 

Thanks Danny, I thought I should try and contribute a bit really. I'm quite good at coming up with new fixes etc so thought I should share these with the happy folk on here.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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I have to swap VR engines in a couple of weeks too and I'm in the same position, having never swapped an engine before!

 

I don't currently have an engine lift, but as I'm taking the whole front end off anyway, can I just wheel engines in and out on a bottle jack? Is it ok to support an engine with all the weight on the sump? I guess you'd put a wooden board between the jack and sump?

 

Also, can you just undo the bolts joining the downpipe to the cat instead of the manifold bolts? I would of thought they'd be easier to get to?

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

You can walk the old engine out of the bay on a jack (using a block of wood to spread the weight) easily enough but you're gunna want a lift to put the new one back in as you have to line up the mounts etc properly and it soooooo easy with a lift. I just hired one for a weekend, cost me about £30 and was worth it!

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Lable everything and take lots of photos, before, during and after.

 

 

Good luck.

 

Ooops, label everything... erm, not something I've been doing but I have been taking lots of photos!!

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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Lable everything and take lots of photos, before, during and after.

 

 

Good luck.

 

Good suggestion :wink: I also got a load of those small clear plastic bags, but you can also just use freezer bags. Use them to keep related bolts together and just write on the bags as to what they are and where they go. Should mean something to you as when you come to reassemble, you do tend to forget where some went and always end up with few 'spares'

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This is good timing for me, I'm going to be looking at taking my engine out soon to change the head and do the timing chains. Have you thought about doing the timing chains on yours? Go on, it would be very handy for me to have a photographic sequence to follow :norty:

 

Best of luck with everything you're doing and I'll keep checking your website for updates :salute:

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This is good timing for me, I'm going to be looking at taking my engine out soon to change the head and do the timing chains. Have you thought about doing the timing chains on yours? Go on, it would be very handy for me to have a photographic sequence to follow :norty:

 

Best of luck with everything you're doing and I'll keep checking your website for updates :salute:

 

 

How do you like these apples!? :D

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/category_engine_bay.html

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This is good timing for me, I'm going to be looking at taking my engine out soon to change the head and do the timing chains. Have you thought about doing the timing chains on yours? Go on, it would be very handy for me to have a photographic sequence to follow :norty:

 

Best of luck with everything you're doing and I'll keep checking your website for updates :salute:

 

 

How do you like these apples!? :D

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/category_engine_bay.html

 

Wow :notworthy: Very tasty there sir. Thanks for getting the link.

 

Oh, not too involved a job then :pale: Holy crap man :pukeright:

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I have to swap VR engines in a couple of weeks too and I'm in the same position, having never swapped an engine before!

 

I don't currently have an engine lift, but as I'm taking the whole front end off anyway, can I just wheel engines in and out on a bottle jack? Is it ok to support an engine with all the weight on the sump? I guess you'd put a wooden board between the jack and sump?

 

Also, can you just undo the bolts joining the downpipe to the cat instead of the manifold bolts? I would of thought they'd be easier to get to?

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

Removal is basically not that hard and as already stated just take ya time visually checking around the engine for anything still connected. Tie back any wiring, coolant hoses and gear linkage as these may catch and fowl as you are lifting the engine out. As for leaving the manifold on and separating the exhaust at the cat....mmmmm tryed this once before and was unable to lift and pull it out as the angle of the downpipe kept catching on the steering rack.

Think it's all really down to just taking your time whatever your previous experience may be. I've always bagged or boxed every part removed so save every used butter carton, ice cream tub or coffee jar going and it'll help you in the long run and also let you easily inspect the condition of parts as well as clean them.

Also if you are using a crane of any description the most important thing is the positioning of the chain, rope or connecting rod that you are using to the engine, if it's slightly loose then you'll get it tilting which is a pain in the back side when you are refitting. VW do have their own engine brace but I've never used one before.

 

Best of luck, shame that you're not closer as you could have borrowed my engine crane, it's not the best but does the job.... similar to what my wife says about me ironically....

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This is good timing for me, I'm going to be looking at taking my engine out soon to change the head and do the timing chains. Have you thought about doing the timing chains on yours? Go on, it would be very handy for me to have a photographic sequence to follow :norty:

 

Best of luck with everything you're doing and I'll keep checking your website for updates :salute:

 

I also found this one too.... http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/03 ... ns-guides/ :)

 

Might be some different photos.

 

Jim

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Irwin bolt grip removers, worth every penny, I don't waste my time undoing Allen bolts with Allen keys anymore, they get driveshaft bolts out too if you strip them, it's best to use a crane so u can leave the front cross member on make ya life easier since there's a mount on there too, dissconect ya battery first, and cover the terminals, easy to leave spanners on top of there. If your in and around Sheffield area/south Yorkshire I'll happily come help anyone if I'm not busy and bring my irwin bolt grippers.

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allen keys are no good on engines imo .You need a proper spline socket/bit set.

That way you will hardly ever need to use irwins.

GoOd to have them as backup mind.

You'll want the proper driveshaft spline bit too.Should never really strip a driveshaft bolt using the proper tool.

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Any ideas where this Driveshaft Spline Bit canbe bought? And thanks to all for help thats been posted.

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Irwin bolt grip removers, worth every penny, I don't waste my time undoing Allen bolts with Allen keys anymore, they get driveshaft bolts out too if you strip them, it's best to use a crane so u can leave the front cross member on make ya life easier since there's a mount on there too, dissconect ya battery first, and cover the terminals, easy to leave spanners on top of there. If your in and around Sheffield area/south Yorkshire I'll happily come help anyone if I'm not busy and bring my irwin bolt grippers.

 

Do these irwins remove round head allen bolts then?? :shrug:

 

Jim

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Any ideas where this Driveshaft Spline Bit canbe bought? And thanks to all for help thats been posted.

 

Spline keys can be bought off ebay, I got my spline key for the engine cover bolts off ebay and it was only a couple of quid. :)

 

Jim

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I bought my Vw driveshaft spline key from my local auto factor.

I think they are pretty common.

And yes irwins eat rounded allen bolts for breakfast.

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I bought my Vw driveshaft spline key from my local auto factor.

I think they are pretty common.

And yes irwins eat rounded allen bolts for breakfast.

 

Awesome... hello ebay....

 

What size should I buy or will a £25 kit of various sizes be ok? They all seem to be imperial measures rather than metric will they still work?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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gsf sell the long driveshaft tool, very handy. that way you dont need to get under the car to undo them. make sure you give the tool a little tap to make sure its in the bolt properly

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Good bit of advice, dont bother to undo the union and then have to re bleed your clutch slave, undo the two bolts and remove the slave complete, you can hang it out of the way and then bolt it when you refit your engine.

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Just had a thought- Once you've taken the front end off, how do you keep the bonnet up?!!

 

Also, as the car will be in the air for a few days at least, is it better to use a couple of old alloys to support the car, or are axle stands fine?

 

Andy

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Just had a thought- Once you've taken the front end off, how do you keep the bonnet up?!!

 

Also, as the car will be in the air for a few days at least, is it better to use a couple of old alloys to support the car, or are axle stands fine?

 

Andy

 

The bonnet stay is connected to the inner wing panel, it's just a rubber grommet through a hole so it'll still be there when you remove the front end... well unless you're cutting the wings off!!!??? How much of the front end are you taking off?

 

Axle stands are good enough as long as they are half decent and not extended to far and you're on the flat, I always place an old wheel underneath in case of emergency anyway.

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