anyone used an electronic boost controller on 1.8t?

[corrado_sunderland 0]

anyone used these before im thinking of fitting one to get perfect boost delivery all the way through most rev range and ya can get them for pretty cheap now :)

[bcstudent 0]

With a decent remap I can't see why you'd need one.

[junkie 0]

Try fitting a Dawes device

[corrado_sunderland 0]

With a decent remap I can't see why you'd need one.

 

 

because 1.8t's always seem to have issues holding there boost so thought it would help

[corrado_sunderland 0]

Try fitting a Dawes device

 

there for increaseing boost i want something to regulate it and stop it spiking and dropping lower which is what electronic fellas are designed to do :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What engine code / ME7 version mate? The N75 valve will need disabling in the software.

 

What boost pressure are you trying hold to what rpm? KO3s can't hold much boost past 5000rpm. K04 is a bit better.

 

If you want a cheap IBC, the Gizzmo IBC-R is brilliant.

[junkie 0]

The Dawes device will increase boost but it will also help it hit the target pressure sooner by keeping the wastegate shut unlike a bleed valve which will always allow a little pressure to bleed through to the actuator which will open the wastegate slightly and then it should also help hold the boost for as long as possible.

 

The electronic does the same but you can't get round the turbo limitations of boost dropping and it's not a case of holding the boost all the way through, sometimes there is no more benefit to be had and all it's doing is creating more heat from the turbo compression and killing more power and over stressing the turbo.

[corrado_sunderland 0]

The Dawes device will increase boost but it will also help it hit the target pressure sooner by keeping the wastegate shut unlike a bleed valve which will always allow a little pressure to bleed through to the actuator which will open the wastegate slightly and then it should also help hold the boost for as long as possible.

 

The electronic does the same but you can't get round the turbo limitations of boost dropping and it's not a case of holding the boost all the way through, sometimes there is no more benefit to be had and all it's doing is creating more heat from the turbo compression and killing more power and over stressing the turbo.

 

 

well ya can get electric ones now from 80 quid, so what would you suggest out the two ya reakon m8? so in theory ditting a dawes if i set it ti say 20 would be the same as using uprated n75 as it would aid spool up time etc?

[junkie 0]

It's upto you but ultimately the electronic control type are only as good as the solenoid used so if it's cheap it's usually cheap for a reason. I only suggest it as it's cheaper, easier to fit and been mechanical it should be more reliable.

[corrado_sunderland 0]

It's upto you but ultimately the electronic control type are only as good as the solenoid used so if it's cheap it's usually cheap for a reason. I only suggest it as it's cheaper, easier to fit and been mechanical it should be more reliable.

 

 

so would the dawes gigamatron work as i said then as a regualtor also then m8?

[bcstudent 0]

I still fail to see the need.

 

Like junkie and kev say, you're not going to prevent the boost dropping off with a K03 no matter what you do. If you want more boost to the red-line then fit a larger turbo and map it accordingly.

[corrado_sunderland 0]

I still fail to see the need.

 

Like junkie and kev say, you're not going to prevent the boost dropping off with a K03 no matter what you do. If you want more boost to the red-line then fit a larger turbo and map it accordingly.

 

 

its the fact its meant to be boosting to twently but isnt thaty annyoing me

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's upto you but ultimately the electronic control type are only as good as the solenoid used so if it's cheap it's usually cheap for a reason.

 

Absolutely!

 

At minimum a valve of this quality should be used - http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=222

 

It's normally around £100, so that site is doing a good deal. And that's just for the valve!

 

So a whole EBC kit for 80 quid isn't going to be much cop. If you want proper intelligent control with closed loop etc, the Gizzmo IBC-R is the minimum I would consider.

 

But as I said, circumventing VW's boost control has to be factored in, so it's not as simple as just plugging it in and off you go.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I still fail to see the need.

 

Like junkie and kev say, you're not going to prevent the boost dropping off with a K03 no matter what you do. If you want more boost to the red-line then fit a larger turbo and map it accordingly.

 

 

its the fact its meant to be boosting to twently but isnt thaty annyoing me

 

20psi? From a K03? Hmmm, 18+ psi is beyond it's comfort zone.

 

If you want to hold 20psi, you need a K04-001 which will bolt onto your K03 manifold.

 

Big turbo. It's the only way :D

[corrado_sunderland 0]

I still fail to see the need.

 

Like junkie and kev say, you're not going to prevent the boost dropping off with a K03 no matter what you do. If you want more boost to the red-line then fit a larger turbo and map it accordingly.

 

 

its the fact its meant to be boosting to twently but isnt thaty annyoing me

 

20psi? From a K03? Hmmm, 18+ psi is beyond it's comfort zone.

 

If you want to hold 20psi, you need a K04-001 which will bolt onto your K03 manifold.

 

Big turbo. It's the only way :D

 

 

ill be happy if it just holds the boost its meant to :lol: had another work in with it on weekend and car is pulling all the way througt revs much better however its still completely destroying fuel, when you go round a roundabout it pops and bangs as if its not getting enough fuel and still will hold no more than 10psi after it spikes so i would of expected it to hold at least 16 if its mapped to 20

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What map is it? Revo?

 

They tend to dial in a big boost spike to give you that sensation of thrust and then pull it back. What rpm are you seeing 10psi? Is it a regular K03 engine?

 

What fuel pump are you using? Could you be getting fuel surge round corners? Right handers by any chance? :D

[corrado_sunderland 0]

What map is it? Revo?

 

They tend to dial in a big boost spike to give you that sensation of thrust and then pull it back. What rpm are you seeing 10psi? Is it a regular K03 engine?

 

What fuel pump are you using? Could you be getting fuel surge round corners? Right handers by any chance? :D

 

 

its been mapped by andy at big fish, its getting its final map soon once it running a ok as he just used a generic chip for now. and yeah it is on right corners (usuall roundabouts) it just starts coughing like mad and popping and banging.The lad who looked at it the other day thinks my pump is duff and that why its loosing boost, It running the standard g60 in tank pump (the set-up that uses only one), does this mean i need a new one to get it running right? the turbo is no a ko3 its the slighty uprated ko3s from the 180 bhp engines which i took off an octavia vrs, All i know is arround the current map is its meant to be boosting around 20 psi and it never goes about 15 so not even spiking high, i was expecting it to peak at 22psi (which is has done once in the past) and then hold 16-18 like i said as it will not hold over 10 at the minute which surely cant be right as i think the vrs does that as standard anyway.

 

Ive swapped the dv valve round now as seems better since putting it this way but when it did boost right once it was the night when it kept juddering and dropping to 5psi, as if dropping into limp mode

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Ah right, you've got a 180 spec 1.8T, gotcha :D

 

Are you sure the G60 fuel pump is standard? Did the previous owner fit an uprated one maybe? It sounds to me like it either has an aftermarket walbro in the stock pump housing, in which case fuel surging can happen at 1/4 tank and lower. Actually, I didn't ask that. This popping etc only happens when you're low on fuel I take it? If so then it's defo your pump that needs looking at.

 

With your boost targets I would be fitting an uprated pump anyway tbh.

 

yeah the K03S should hit 20psi. I have no idea who big fish are but it could be the generic map not opening the N75 valve enough, assuming there are no other issues such as boost leaks etc etc

 

You could also try a forge 007P diverter valve with a stiffer spring in it, which sometimes helps.

[corrado_sunderland 0]

Ah right, you've got a 180 spec 1.8T, gotcha :D

 

Are you sure the G60 fuel pump is standard? Did the previous owner fit an uprated one maybe? It sounds to me like it either has an aftermarket walbro in the stock pump housing, in which case fuel surging can happen at 1/4 tank and lower. Actually, I didn't ask that. This popping etc only happens when you're low on fuel I take it? If so then it's defo your pump that needs looking at.

 

With your boost targets I would be fitting an uprated pump anyway tbh.

 

yeah the K03S should hit 20psi. I have no idea who big fish are but it could be the generic map not opening the N75 valve enough, assuming there are no other issues such as boost leaks etc etc

 

You could also try a forge 007P diverter valve with a stiffer spring in it, which sometimes helps.

 

yup its an agu with ko3s, and it does only cough when low, (not as if it ever goes over a 1/4 these days it so pricey :lol: )

 

i was just planning to fit a 4bar fpr when its gets its final mapping, im thinking of removing the front bumper and checking all boost pipes properly and changeing all vacuum pipes to make sure one last time there is no other leaks at all. The car has already got a 007 with yellow uprated spring fitted (think its worth adding some 2p's as shims and seeing if it helps?). It has hit high boost once before which makes me wonder why its doesnt now.

 

Will there be any distinct differences in the pumps to show if its uprated? the lad off ed38 who looked at it for me the other day seemed to think standard injectors and pump could fuel up to 300bhp easy :confused4:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

300hp sounds a bit too close to the edge for a standard pump but I'm not sure what flow rate the G60 pump has compared to a VR6 one. It's academical anyway as the K03S can't make anywhere near 300hp anyway :D

 

Yeah I would check your pump. If you take the pump housing out via the hatch in the boot (it just twists and unclips from the tank floor) you can dismantle it and see what the score is with the actual pump inside it, which is just a grey metal pump. if it's OE, it'll have bosch stamped on it. If it's an uprated one it will be a Walbro most likely.

 

At the bottom of the pump housing you'll notice a small stainless mesh and a little nozzle. The nozzle is the inlet to the pump from the swirl pot, which stops surging. Aftermarket drop in pumps don't have a pick up for the swirl pot return, which cause the popping and misfiring on right handers as all the full sloshes away from the pump. If your pump is standard, someone's messed with it because stock systems don't surge!

 

I think the red spring is stiffest, you could try that with a couple of shims!

[corrado_sunderland 0]

well looks like ill have to pull the pump out over weekend :( god this engine is annyoing :lol: i was just going to buy a replacement and fit it anyway to make sure as apparently there cheap enough. so does the pick up pipe clip directly onto the pump itself?

 

and i thought the yellow spring was best suited for this from what i saw on the internet but it does seems to dump constantly, should it only dump at a certain psi? as it dumps pretty much every gear change

[bcstudent 0]

If you're expecting a K03s to hold 18 psi then prepare to be disappointed. Even 16 is a little high. My Leon is down to 14 or 15 by the redline and at 240+ bhp I figure I've squeezed all I can out of it.

 

I see your point though, you should easily see a peak of 20 psi providing the map allows it. All this talk of electronic boost-controllers seems unnecessary though. There's clearly a bigger issue here somewhere. Once the car is running properly the VW boost-control system is more than adequate for the engine and turbo combination you're using.

 

I'm also using a yellow spring in the Forge 007P. The K03s produces usable boost from 1500rpm so you'll hear a dump in pretty much every gear change if you've got an open filter. That's quite normal.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I would check all your boost pipework if you can, and also make sure you have no pre-turbo exhaust leaks too. Both affect spool up and boost pressure. You can actually get cheap pressure testers to fill your engine with air and then watch the pressure guage and see if the pressure drops. It's a bit easier than ripping the bumper off if you don't need to :D

 

Yeah you'll see what I mean with the pick up pipe when you dismantle the pump assembly!

 

Yellow could be stiffer. I bought a pack of springs and I'm sure i remember the red one being stiffest, I'll check tonight.

 

The only time the valve should dump is when you lift off the throttle. If it's venting at any other time, you need a stiffer spring :D

 

Yep, boosted engines can be annoying when you've got a running problem, but bloody good fun when running right. Defo worth the pain :D

[Rob_B 0]

A genuine g60 pump is about £130 from TPS and you will more than likely need the new sender to go with it so that's another £80.

I'll try and remember to look at what my turbo holds tonight. It peaks at 20 but drops to about 13 at max rpm I think.

[corrado_sunderland 0]

A genuine g60 pump is about £130 from TPS and you will more than likely need the new sender to go with it so that's another £80.

I'll try and remember to look at what my turbo holds tonight. It peaks at 20 but drops to about 13 at max rpm I think.

 

 

cool i appreciate it bud