Benjevw 10 Posted March 27, 2013 Got round to removing the cylinder head yesterday. Here's what it looks like... [ATTACH]73181[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]73182[/ATTACH] What would people suggest I clean it up with? There is some corrosion in one of the cylinders! I don't think there's any damage to the walls so would cleaning all pistons/cylinder walls be ok to do? Or should you not touch them? I was thinking of removing the crankshaft and pistons and soaking/cleaning properly! If I did would it be ok to just build it back up with the same parts? If not, what else should I make sure I do? Here's some pics of the pistons. The piston with the corrosion/rust is the back row, nearest to the right (looking at the car from front) [ATTACH]73183[/ATTACH] The shatty piston ^ [ATTACH]73184[/ATTACH] All other pistons are like this ^ I didn't get chance to turn the engine over as I got called away but ill be doing that ASAP ! Sorry if pics are huge or don't show up, my tapatalk a trying to charge me more money to load pics!! Cheers Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted March 27, 2013 Also any tips on removing and cleaning up the valves? Can you re-seat the valves yourself or is this a job for the machine shop? Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 27, 2013 looks like water got into that cylinder. Are you getting it rebored? You can remove the valves with a valve compression tool which basically looks like a huge G-clamp that goes over the head to compress the valve. I think you can reseat them if you remove each one, put it in an upright drill and clean each valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted March 27, 2013 Is that what it is? How can this happen? The head gasket was in quite a bad way!! Nah I'm not re boring it mate. It's sort of just being built so I can learn how it all works. Was hoping to swap it with my 2.9 when I do the chains, just so I can still use it! I might just do my chains over a weekend now though. Ill look into the valve work later on cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted March 27, 2013 Sounds similar to what i want to do, still making my mind up what i should do. Nice pics, always useful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 9, 2013 So I had the engine out again today as the weather was nice! Realised that the reason the engine isn't turning is because of the corrosion/build up of sh!t on the cylinder wall is stopping it rising. Tryed wire brushing some of it off but didnt budge it. I'm not planning on getting any serious work done on it so am I right in thinking its had it? Here's a pic of it [ATTACH]73448[/ATTACH] Compared to the rest [ATTACH]73449[/ATTACH] Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted April 10, 2013 I'm afraid that that is un-useable. Even a 20thou' (0.5mm) rebore is unlikely to get through that deep corrosion. But look on the bright side- you had a lot of fun taking it to bits, you met some nice people along the way and you now have a very unusual boat anchor sitting in your garage.......... or you could turn it into a Top Gear coffee table. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 10, 2013 I'm afraid that that is un-useable. Even a 20thou' (0.5mm) rebore is unlikely to get through that deep corrosion. But look on the bright side- you had a lot of fun taking it to bits, you met some nice people along the way and you now have a very unusual boat anchor sitting in your garage.......... or you could turn it into a Top Gear coffee table. Best wishes RB Booo :( ! Lol yea Good idea! My girlfriends dad has a boat so might dump it on his drive!! Lol I think I'm going to grind out all of the rust to free the piston and use it as a practise block ! Ill practise doing chains on it so when I come to do mine ill have the knowledge :) Thanks for all your help roger! And anyone else who's given advice/tips. Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted April 10, 2013 turn it into a coffee table!! have you not seen the vr6 coffee table made by the company that does them? it was awesome!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 10, 2013 turn it into a coffee table!! have you not seen the vr6 coffee table made by the company that does them? it was awesome!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 10, 2013 That looks awesome :D May have to be done!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted April 10, 2013 luv it!! i was considering doing it to my old ABV but thats still a good motor so i didnt.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 20, 2013 Had a go at timing yesterday. Followed the timing chain wiki guide from here but have a few questions. I'm thinking because I'm re-using the chains they may have stretched a little? When fitting the crank/intermediate chain I found the mark to be out a couple of mm I got the chain as tight as possible on the front side and left all the slack on the tensioner side, tried this a few times on both intermediate sprocket marks (12 and 6 o'clock) but couldn't get it any closer. I set the cam timing with some funky coasters and re-fitted the head. Fitted top chain with no slack on the front side and as little slack as possible between the two cam sprockets. Fitted top timing cover and top tensioner hand tight just to check the timing was ok. Turned the engine over 2 full revolutions and tried to re-fit the cam lock but don't seem to line up that well! I can just about get the coasters in when forced in but seem to have gone a bit too far clockwise? So is this just because the chains may be stretched a little? Don't see how I can get the marks any closer! Cheers Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted April 22, 2013 You could put red wine glasses on each of the coasters (having first drunk the red wine, of course). Then, your concerns would melt away as if by magic........ But seriously, the position of the intermediate shaft doesn't really matter much as all it does is to drive the oil pump, and to provide a home for the reduction gears which are there to reduce the cam sprocket sizes to manageable proportions. How thick are your (very innovative) cam locks? They just about fit in, they are certainly not a whole sprocket-tooth out. I think that a slightly stretched chain is probably the explanation. Remember that the top tensioner doesn't work to its fullest extent until there is oil pressure. How have you got the engine to turn over with that corroded bore? Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 22, 2013 You could put red wine glasses on each of the coasters (having first drunk the red wine, of course). Then, your concerns would melt away as if by magic........ But seriously, the position of the intermediate shaft doesn't really matter much as all it does is to drive the oil pump, and to provide a home for the reduction gears which are there to reduce the cam sprocket sizes to manageable proportions. How thick are your (very innovative) cam locks? They just about fit in, they are certainly not a whole sprocket-tooth out. I think that a slightly stretched chain is probably the explanation. Remember that the top tensioner doesn't work to its fullest extent until there is oil pressure. How have you got the engine to turn over with that corroded bore? Best wishes RB Haha so if I balance two glasses of red wine on them when I do my Corrado it'll go down without a problem !! Lol They were a pretty tight fit to begin with because of the anti slip felt on the bottom ! I can just about get them in but have to slightly bend the wood! I used a drill with sandpaper attachment thing on it and just ground away the corrosion. Turns over lovely now! With the tensioner, would leaving it in oil overnight give it more tension or does that happen after it's been started and oils pumped around the engine? Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted April 22, 2013 The tensioner takes full pumped oil pressure (you'll see a little rubber o-ring somewhere on the top casing where it seals to the block, not to be forgotten during final reassembly !! ) so just soaking the tensioner in oil won't do it. There is a spring in there as well so that the chain doesn't go completely slack with the engine turned off. I'm sure that that bore has more than enough clearance now, but probably a bit low on compression....... RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted April 22, 2013 Seem to recall the guide in our Wiki saying to fully submerge the tensioner bolt in oil while manually compressing it, then holding it compressed until it was reinstalled? My votes on going to 83.5mm pistons but Ben's not convinced :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 22, 2013 To compress it you need to carefully use a wire in the small side hole Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted April 22, 2013 That's the one, to push in the plastic ratcheting bit. It's all coming flooding back..! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted April 23, 2013 Gents, The plastic ratchet thing is the bottom chain tensioner. The top one is hydraulic, the purpose of immersing/depressing the plunger in oil is to bleed out air but it will still need pumped oil pressure to exert its full influence on the top tensioner pad. Yours in pedantry (nothing to do with J. Savile) RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Benjevw 10 Posted April 23, 2013 Yeah the bottom ratchet 1 is fitted. Cheers for that roger, I can see what you mean about the tiny o ring in the timing case! Doubt I would've spotted that if you wouldn't of said! Cheers Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
