daleyboy 0 Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) How did you get on Harrier in changing them ?, why not give us your top tips.... I was thinking about it and thought can i just unscrew the tensioner on the chain a tad then unscrew the cam bolts and just change the cams without taking the chain off the cam wheels ? Surely there must be a quick way of doing it ? Edited August 6, 2012 by daleyboy Grammatical errors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harrier 1 Posted August 7, 2012 Daleboy,You wouldnt be able to it without removing pulley cover plate as pulley bolts come out that end & cover plate houses tensioner.Main tip would be when installing cams,back off crank 1/4 turn & make sure no pistons are at top of stroke.Cams cant be bolted down in there timing set up position.Dont mix up cam caps! Its not a bad job but then this is my day job too ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted August 7, 2012 I used this guide when I did mine. Never been in about the guts of a VR before but it was all relatively straight forward , just double check timing and make sure everything goes back where it should. Oh and try and get a spare cam wheel as the one on the rear bank is really tight. http://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=559&hilit=replace+chains Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 7, 2012 Don't just get cyl 1 on TDC and assume that's it. You need to check the intermediate sprocket's timing mark, which is buried under the timing cover. You can get a dental mirror down there and shine a torch down and see the mark. Once the intermediate sprocket arrow points to a line on the block and Cyl 1 is still at TDC, crank it round 4 times and recheck it aligns. If it does, proceed with the cam fitment. Once fitted, turn it round another 4 times as a triple check before firing it up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daleyboy 0 Posted August 7, 2012 Ok all received, i knew i had to take the side plate off i just thought i could do it without disturbing anything, i shall try this in the next couple of weeks, i have done numerous cam belts but this is a bit different, i suppose i can always post up a question if needs be......thanks chaps....:salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 11, 2012 Well, am I the first with everything fitted and running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeVR6 0 Posted August 11, 2012 Mine have been fitted but that was only a small part of the work Stealth are doing for me. What's the verdict? Worthy upgrade? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 11, 2012 Useful extra oomph, yes. Plus my schrick is now working properly, so it's a bit of a torque monster. It seems the 263s provided about 10-15 lbft of torque across the whole rev band, and don't tail off so fast at the top of the rev range. Combined with the Schrick manifold the car is feeling about a hundred kilos lighter .. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
captainredeye 0 Posted August 12, 2012 Dr_Mat have you had yours mapped to match the cams yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harrier 1 Posted August 12, 2012 Well, am I the first with everything fitted and running? Had mine in for over a week now,a nice boost in power & sounds 'crisper' & more willing to rev,lost some of the top end 'roar' though.Going to get re mapped in September Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted August 12, 2012 The SP263's do seem to make the VR lose a bit of it's roar.. but is worth it for the increased oomph :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 12, 2012 Yes, Vince remapped when they were fitted. Looks like the remap liberated the remaining potential 8-10 lbft and resulted in a much smoother power delivery. Think he's also increased the idle speed slightly too (750 instead of about 650) .. don't know if this was deliberate or not, will have a chat at some point.. ! Yes, I agree that this changes the tone of the VR slightly - unfortunately the evil, gutteral, off-beat growl at 2-3k rpm is somewhat reduced.. The top end I'm not so sure on. The standard cams have a bit of a turbine-like whistle when it starts to sing, but I've not noticed if that's changed or not. ---------- Post added at 10:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ---------- I'll post up some rolling road graphs at some point, if people are interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
captainredeye 0 Posted August 12, 2012 Yes please, I have a schrick manifold and very interested to see the improvements when combined with the cams. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 12, 2012 (edited) These are the graphs .. FWIW the car with just the schrick and a remap was developing 199bhp and 199lbft. The standard car, we have to assume, was around 199bhp and 185lbft. The two curves on these graphs are Schrick + 263s with and without a custom remap. The car was already mapped for the Schrick, but didn't cope well with the extra airflow from the cams so needed tweakage which liberated another 7-10lbft across the range (in fact nearly 15-20 lbft across the 4k-6k range, but my guess is the map was just a bit too lean in that range). Edited August 12, 2012 by dr_mat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
captainredeye 0 Posted August 12, 2012 Nice one, the bhp graph is quite a smooth line with a slight step at 4000rpm im guessing thats the manifold opening up??? id be happy with those figures though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted August 12, 2012 I find mine does have the same sort of turbine whistle you refer to dr_mat - usually as you're sailing past the 5k mark... so it shouldn't be lost on yours! Those are some great figures by the way. It is funny what lengths naturally aspirated engine owners have to go to, to get even close to the sorts of improvements you can get our of a simple remap on a modern petrol turbo engine though!! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 12, 2012 TBH the power graph isn't that interesting, it doesn't tell you much about how the car feels on the road. It's really all about that headline number. The torque graph on the other hand reflects *exactly* how the car feels on the road, and that's why I spent the money on the Schrick those years ago, and that's why I went for the 263s not the 268s.. The important thing is the nice smooth torque graph, it used to be quite jerky before. Something to do with pinking I think.. It feels really nice to drive now, very responsive and spritely, and sooo smooth. That turbine whistle is the best bit of the VR6.. It's why I hit the rev limiter two days after I got the car.. it sounded so unstressed and smooth I just didn't realise I ought to change up! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 12, 2012 And, yeah Jim, quite a lot of money for a 10% performance improvement, versus two hundred quid to change the boost number and get 50% more performance .. Not fair, really.. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wesleyvr6 10 Posted April 14, 2013 Did anyone who bought a set of these not fit them and is willing to sell on?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites