stevef182 0 Posted June 25, 2012 Have used the search but cant find the answer. My miltek knocks on the rear beam of my VR and it is starting to drive me mad! Took it to a garage who cut up a rubber exhust mount and wedged it between the beam and the pipe (worked for about 20 minutes!) Any other ideas? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P3rks 11 Posted June 25, 2012 Uprated exhaust mounts to stop flex? Or shorter ones to raise it? A good trick I used on my old Polo's was to put a hose clip around the outside of the existing rubber exhaust mounts. This way you still have some small flex but will avoid any stretch or bouncing around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VWVW 1 Posted June 25, 2012 Cant believe they did that temporay fix ! Is all your other exhaust rubber in pretty good shape. If they are old they may be sagging and not holding the exhaust up properly. Take it to another garage and have it aligned again maybe? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stereoflaver 0 Posted June 25, 2012 Mine did this under acceleration, I changed the front mount and it stopped the engine pitching backward and pushing the exhaust onto the rear beam. 2.0 16v tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Human Joist 10 Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Check rubbers as above then get the exhaust rubber as you first mentioned and use a couple of jubilee clips to tie it very tight on the rear beam. I know it's a bit of a bodge but as soon as you lower the car the beam moves closer to the exhaust. It's a very common problem on these cars as well as mk2 golfs. I did this on my vr 12 months ago and it has not been a problem since. It's either that or you can higher the car or take a mallet to the exhaust and tap the section in to stop it banging. As far as the rubbers go I would get some Audi ones as they have a metal reinforcement in them to stop the sagging. I think they were like that on the S3 I believe. But that's another way to elimenate the sagging. Edited June 25, 2012 by Human Joist Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted June 25, 2012 Rubbers seem fine..I changed the one closest to the rear recently but it wasnt easy..I had to unpick a weld with a small chisel as the bar that the rubber hangs from to was welded at each end to the unit that bolts onto the bottom of the car, so I presume you need to change the whole hanger with rubber already attached? Maybe jubilee clip to the rear beam might work!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redfox 10 Posted June 25, 2012 I have the same problem on my new Simons 2½" stainless system. In the package are some new hangers that needs to be installed to make the hanging points work. More or less, as they don't sit correctly anyway, especially the single hanger for the rear of the rear silencer. How about cutting the hangers on the exhaust system, and weld them lower, so they may raise the system, as it sits way too low under the car? Or something else? Cheers, Redfox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Human Joist 10 Posted June 25, 2012 I went through all off these ideas on my golfs years ago and the amount of work required does not merit it. I did not like the idea of messing with original hangers. It's not the exhaust it's the ride height. Trust me it will work and it's also the easiest way. Get a rubber with holes in so you can put the clip through so it can't fall off. Mine rests against the rubber most of the time and as its designed to be on the exhaust it takes the heat without melting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted June 25, 2012 Take it to a Powerflow or Longlife exhaust place- they should be able to adjust it for you pretty easily. New hangars are one- piece- metal hangar with rubber attached. Think they're around £12 from VW. To save cash you can rmove the metal bracket and saw off the old 'bar' the rubber is attached to and replace it with a thick bolt/nut combo, with a new rubber fitted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) Take it to a Powerflow or Longlife exhaust place- they should be able to adjust it for you pretty easily. New hangars are one- piece- metal hangar with rubber attached. Think they're around £12 from VW. To save cash you can rmove the metal bracket and saw off the old 'bar' the rubber is attached to and replace it with a thick bolt/nut combo, with a new rubber fitted. Cheers mate, I only realised this once I'd removed the whole hanger. Ended up beating the two ends with a chisel and unpicking the weld to release the bar and fit the new rubber. Didnt fix the problem though. I'm pretty sure Jim is right re ride height vs exhaust alignment though. Jim, will go with your advice - is clearly what the garage thought best (easiest), although they just executed it poorly. Jubilee clip sounds like the best way to secure it to the rear beam and im pretty sure Halfords sell rubbers for about £1. Edited June 26, 2012 by stevef182 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr lobitos 0 Posted June 26, 2012 mine did this , middle section was not far enough on the intermediate pipe, so trimmed a inch or so off the inter pipe to pull the system forward, spot on now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 26, 2012 Yup /\. It's a fitting issue. The trick with Corrados is to mount the over axle pipe so that it's about 10mm from the floor. A lot of people fit exhausts with the wheels off the ground and forget the axle moves back up (a lot) when it's back on the ground. And as above, the arc of over axle pipe needs to be directly above the axle. This bit is usually crimped for extra clearance. For a more permanent clunking prevention, I use a peice of old silicon hose clamped round the axle for the odd occasion when the rear is heavily loaded or if I go over unusually large bumps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted June 26, 2012 Yep. Start with the position of the over beam section and then mod everything else to suit, you might need to trim a bit of the cat to silencer pipe to move it forward a bit to clear the beam when it swings up as Kev said. I have a Miltek and it fits absolutely perfectly, never knocks or bangs unless I hit a massive bump mid corner and it hits the bumper. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted June 26, 2012 Yup /\. It's a fitting issue. The trick with Corrados is to mount the over axle pipe so that it's about 10mm from the floor. A lot of people fit exhausts with the wheels off the ground and forget the axle moves back up (a lot) when it's back on the ground. And as above, the arc of over axle pipe needs to be directly above the axle. This bit is usually crimped for extra clearance. For a more permanent clunking prevention, I use a peice of old silicon hose clamped round the axle for the odd occasion when the rear is heavily loaded or if I go over unusually large bumps. Im pretty sure mine is aligned correctly..but I will check. What do you use to clamp the silicone hose to the axle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carrots 1 Posted June 26, 2012 mine did this , middle section was not far enough on the intermediate pipe, so trimmed a inch or so off the inter pipe to pull the system forward, spot on now i had to cut a bit off mine,i need to get some heavy duty exhaust clamps next tho as i cant get it to seal proper as the clamp starts to bend when i realy tighten it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 26, 2012 Im pretty sure mine is aligned correctly..but I will check. What do you use to clamp the silicone hose to the axle? Cable ties :D I just make sure the silicon section is wide enough so that the exhaust doesn't touch the ties, but you can use big jubilee clamps instead. Airflow under the car keeps temperatures in check and silicon just seems a bit more robust than plain rubber. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted June 26, 2012 Putting bits Inbetween the two faces that knock just worsens the problem though, ok the thud will be more dull, but it's more likely to happen.... Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 26, 2012 I know what you mean but my 5mm thick peice of silicon is only there as a last resort for the conditions we spoke of earlier. It never knocks during normal day to day driving with just me in the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted June 26, 2012 Putting bits Inbetween the two faces that knock just worsens the problem though, ok the thud will be more dull, but it's more likely to happen.... Jay Unless you use something thick enough to effectively wedge between the two faces? Which in my case wouldnt be thick at all as there is very little room! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted June 26, 2012 If there is very little room then it's not fitted quite right. It should be very very close to the body, not the beam. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted June 27, 2012 If there is very little room then it's not fitted quite right. It should be very very close to the body, not the beam. Jay Ok - cheers bud, I will have a good look this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites