Save a VR6 from the for sale section? (overheating)

[Rinse 0]

Bought a VR6 on Saturday with the intention of having it as my new toy but had a couple trips planned I had to take it on.

 

Was offered one from here, but the day before I collected it the radiator started leaking and was attempted to be patched up with Radweld, This blocked the radiator so whenever the car got up to temp it would boil over and loose all coolant. Since I'm full on with work I couldn't get enough time off to get down and collect so I went down and drove back up to scotland, obviously keeping an eye on oil and water temps, the journey took over 4 times as long with ALOT of re-fills.

 

Got it up the road, no major issues. Got a new radiator and filled it up with 1.5l G12 from the header tank (Heater matrix is bypassed and one hose looks like it will split trying to take it off so didn't use the 3l). Drove the car up to tesco's with a big grin on my face, just to have it wiped off after coming back to the car. Coolant everywhere. Again.

 

Filled it up with the water I still had left and took it a route home on the motorway, water temp was okay but oil temp reached 108 by the time i could pull over.

 

Let it cool down and topped it back up with water. Drove home to walk away from it boiling over, not caring.

 

Looking for the most likely causes of why this is going to be boiling over constantly and dumping the entire contents of the header tank. I'm at the point where I'm about to give up on the car and sell it at a healthy loss, I just don't care about it after the hassle its caused me already and I wish I hadn't bought it.

 

I've also got to drive from Edinburgh to Inverness tomorrow night, which is looking likely to be in a borrowed car. Hence why I'm loosing faith in this car drastically.

Edited August 9, 2012 by Rinse

[emu 0]

To be honest it's only minor issue. Just locate where the coolant leaking from and fix it.

[KIPVW 0]

Could be an airlock mate as had similar issues on my 8v, took a while to sort it but persistence is the key.

[Jim 1]

Could be an airlock.. could also the thermostat being stuck cause similar problems to this?

[vr6storm v2 10]

could also be a water pump or head gasket issue too

[Rinse 0]

could also be a water pump or head gasket issue too

 

Oh dear. This is not what I want to hear after just buying a car.

 

First things first, How do I find out if theres an air lock and how to I fix it? I literally put all the piping back on then filled up from the header tank, started the car then giving the car a few revs afterwards which got it circulating.

 

Would it be worth draining whats in there, then putting back in the correct 3 litres of coolant with the water to see if that makes a difference.

 

---------- Post added at 9:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:14 AM ----------

 

Also, will putting the heater matrix back in action help at all or will it just be at risk of popping?

 

---------- Post added at 9:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:15 AM ----------

 

Suspecting the fan not be kicking in too? I doubt thats causing it since it happened at 70 but it wont be helping.

[fla 9]

dont worry about the HG - you would see white steam/smoke from the exhaust if it were bad, i'm assuming there is none.

Do this:

Drain the cooling system

Fill with water and circulate for around 5 mins with the header cap off

Drain and refill

Add one bottle of rad flush (you can get this from GSF, only about £5)

Run the car up to temp, keep the header cap off.

When it starts boiling over, stop the car, put the cap on and start the car again

Leave it running for another 10-15 mins and see what happens to the water temp and the level in the header tank.

Check your upper and lower heater hoses to see they're both warm. If the lower one is cold and flexible your stat is not opening. Get a genuine VW one plus the triangular gasket for this.

If both are getting warm, go for a short drive.

If ok, drain the system when it cools down, refill with water and add another couple of bottles of rad cleaner. LEave it in there for around 30-40 miles.

Drain, refill with deionised water and coolant.

 

Always fill from the top hose to avoid airlocks, and massage the pipes when teh header tank cap is off.

 

Let us know how you get on.

[Rinse 0]

dont worry about the HG - you would see white steam/smoke from the exhaust if it were bad, i'm assuming there is none.

Do this:

Drain the cooling system

Fill with water and circulate for around 5 mins with the header cap off

Drain and refill

Add one bottle of rad flush (you can get this from GSF, only about £5)

Run the car up to temp, keep the header cap off.

When it starts boiling over, stop the car, put the cap on and start the car again

Leave it running for another 10-15 mins and see what happens to the water temp and the level in the header tank.

Check your upper and lower heater hoses to see they're both warm. If the lower one is cold and flexible your stat is not opening. Get a genuine VW one plus the triangular gasket for this.

If both are getting warm, go for a short drive.

If ok, drain the system when it cools down, refill with water and add another couple of bottles of rad cleaner. LEave it in there for around 30-40 miles.

Drain, refill with deionised water and coolant.

 

Always fill from the top hose to avoid airlocks, and massage the pipes when teh header tank cap is off.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Cool, assuming any Rad flush will do the trick? Going to try and get the day off work to get this sorted. will no doubt be regular updates haha.

Fan wasn't coming on with the ignition and then bridging the sensors with a spoon, going to check the fuse for that as well as flush and re-fill the coolant etc.

 

---------- Post added at 11:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------

 

Also by top hose, have I been doing it wrong at the header? Is the top hose the one that goes to the top of the rad?

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

yo, dont worry and dont get p1553d off with it, every used car of this age will have its problems, aslong as your willing to get involved you can fix them at minimal cost with your time, just think how good its gona be once its sorted!

 

have a good look through this, http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide,

 

first thing i would check is the bottom rad hose that still cold when its up to temp ?

if so your thermostat will be stuck closed blocking the water flow through the rad, the thermostat should open up at around 80 degrees so make sure your car is at 85 before you check the bottom rad hose, if your thermostat needs replaceing you might have to remove the front end to gain access, its an easy job though so dont be put off by it.

[Rinse 0]

yo, dont worry and dont get p1553d off with it, every used car of this age will have its problems, aslong as your willing to get involved you can fix them at minimal cost with your time, just think how good its gona be once its sorted!

 

have a good look through this, http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide,

 

first thing i would check is the bottom rad hose that still cold when its up to temp ?

if so your thermostat will be stuck closed blocking the water flow through the rad, the thermostat should open up at around 80 degrees so make sure your car is at 85 before you check the bottom rad hose, if your thermostat needs replaceing you might have to remove the front end to gain access, its an easy job though so dont be put off by it.

 

Yeah, I'm just really ****ed since I needed this to be sorted for tonight which is a shame. More than capable of getting it sorted, just time's not on my side.

 

I had a read through the VR6 cooling guide, thats how I found my fan was bust. - The bottom rad hose is hot when its up to temp, previous owner swapped out thermostat not too long ago.

[fla 9]

i would use the gsf ones and then finish off with the orange one from VW. Its about £23 but put the whole lot in there and it will really clean the system out thoroughly. Make sure you rinse through well afterwards. I just put the hosepipe in the header tank with the drain open and maintained the level with the engine running. Just means that the water temp keeps the stat open so you are also flushing the rad through ie its not getting too cold to keep the stat shut but not so hot it boils out. Flowrate is quite slow so you can just leave it in there for a while.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

oh forgot to add, i remember seeing an over heating issue once, it turned out the header tank cap needed replaceing, may or may not be your problem though..

[GlosterOx 0]

oh forgot to add, i remember seeing an over heating issue once, it turned out the header tank cap needed replaceing, may or may not be your problem though..

 

I've heard of that as well, perhaps get a new "blue" cap if the original black one is still on it?

 

Ian.

[Rinse 0]

Fan is starting with a paperclip, I was doing it wrong. Surely it wouldn't be overheating on the motorway if the issue was down to the fan though? I'm just about to go buy some more coolant and some flush. Will report back after clearing that. I've got a mate with a donor VR6 so I could steal headercap and switch off him til i sort the problem.

[Rinse 0]

dont worry about the HG - you would see white steam/smoke from the exhaust if it were bad, i'm assuming there is none.

Do this:

Drain the cooling system

Fill with water and circulate for around 5 mins with the header cap off

Drain and refill

Add one bottle of rad flush (you can get this from GSF, only about £5)

Run the car up to temp, keep the header cap off.

When it starts boiling over, stop the car, put the cap on and start the car again

Leave it running for another 10-15 mins and see what happens to the water temp and the level in the header tank.

Check your upper and lower heater hoses to see they're both warm. If the lower one is cold and flexible your stat is not opening. Get a genuine VW one plus the triangular gasket for this.

If both are getting warm, go for a short drive.

 

Just done up to here. I was in at VW today too so was asking about the other header caps. £8 but not in stock. Luckily my flatmate has a Mk2 driver with the Blue cap, so I threw that on as well just to test what was going on.

 

Reconnected the heater matrix too, Filled with water and the rad flush. Took it up to temp and the fans were kicking in as they should. Everything was okay, the level in expansion tank went up, but leveled out after the fans kicked in. Then I took it for a drive around the block and gave it a little beans in 2nd a couple times. Pulled up outside the flat. No dripping coolant, no steam. Stopped the car. No steam or boiling. Level in header tank went down a couple inches or so but wasn't boiling over. :D

 

STUPIDLY I went to take the expansion cap off, to look inside (No idea why) and obviously as soon as I took it off. it boiled over. BUT there was still water left in the expansion tank, before it would leave it dry.

 

Fingers crossed, this has solved the issue. Currently waiting on the car to cool down, then i'm going to put in the De-ionised water and G12. Which is hopefully going to lead to a happy Keeve!

 

I think this is pointing to the header cap, tbh. whats your thoughts on the situ? Also. Is it normal for a VR's oil to reach over 100 degree's? I know G60's run hot, but when i shut it off I was at 104 degrees oil temp!

[lilfuzzer 1]

In my experience the vrs that I have owned have ranged widely in oil temperature the blackberry regulary runs around 104/106 so I would say thats fine.

 

Was the linked heater matrix pipes kinked or where they allowing water free flow?

[fla 9]

yes, 100 is just a psychological figure. I believe that the optimum oil temp is 104/106C to balance moisture removal and lubricity, i'm sure someone can confirm or advise further. I have a mocal fitted to mine and whilst i also have aircon the oil can still get up to 106C after a thrashing.

If you are concerned then you could do an oil flush and filter change. Oil flush - drain the old oil, leave the filter in. Fill with new oil, drive for around 10 miles, drain, replace oil filter, refill again with fresh oil.

[Rinse 0]

Was the linked heater matrix pipes kinked or where they allowing water free flow?

 

Nah they weren't kinked or anything. Now they're fitted they're a bit stretched but nothing too concerning. seem okay too.

Still waiting for it to cool down. Convinced it was the cap!

[Rinse 0]

Okay, thats the deionised water and coolant in. Just took it out on a quick run to get it up to temp and its held its water after I shut the car off! YASSSSS.

 

Must have been the cap. But I have noticed at one point a wee splash of water came up to the inside of the windscreen when i gave it a bit of throttle at one point. Also the windscreen started misting up when i turned off speed 4. then took ages to clear when i put it back on.... Heater matrix?

 

CHEERS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS. I owe you all pints haha.

[anne t 10]

Okay, thats the deionised water and coolant in. Just took it out on a quick run to get it up to temp and its held its water after I shut the car off! YASSSSS.

 

Must have been the cap. But I have noticed at one point a wee splash of water came up to the inside of the windscreen when i gave it a bit of throttle at one point. Also the windscreen started misting up when i turned off speed 4. then took ages to clear when i put it back on.... Heater matrix?

 

CHEERS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS. I owe you all pints haha.

 

Thought a was gonnae get this cheap lol:thumbleft:

[Rinse 0]

yep, heater matrix has blown.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

damn unlucky m8, if i was you i would just bypass it for a week or 2 and enjoy your car for abit, otherwise all this work in one go might just p155 you off ,