94 VR6 ABS light on - front left valve fault

[Dox 23]

 

Can anyone point out which is the ABS relay please, fuse 4 appears OK

 

I've spent ages searching ABS issue on here, I've tried a replacement ABS ecu, many posts point to this type of fault being electric rather than the actual pump itself.

 

All help gratefully received

[dumptyboy 0]

Arent the ABS relays behind the glove box?

[Dox 23]

Arent the ABS relays behind the glove box?

 

 

If they are it will have to wait until I can move the car for better access!

[Jon_vr6 1]

Yeah behind glovebox fella also worth giving the connectors on the abs pump a good spray with electrical contacts if the replacing of the abs relays doesnt work

[Dox 23]

Yeah behind glovebox fella also worth giving the connectors on the abs pump a good spray with electrical contacts if the replacing of the abs relays doesnt work

 

I've had both plugs off, they appear clean, as do the front abs sensors on the strut tops, this is an ex IOM car so its not seen road salt until it arrived here 2 years ago.

 

I've just read an old post by supercharged mentioning screen leaks and blown matrix soaking ECUs / relays / wiring etc

 

Thanks all

[seanl82 23]

Has it been on Vagcom? If so, whats it pointing to? If you remove the outer cover of the old ecu you took out, you will see if it had been exposed to water and causing your problems from the start, but if you've replaced it with a known good one and the problem still persists, its more likely the fault lyes somewhere else obviously. Sensors are the most common problem, even if they've not been exposed to salt. Here is a link for when I did my golf, not entirely the same system, but basic rules still apply with regard to testing the sensors.

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

[AlexDG 0]

'front left valve fault' sounds suspiciously like a vagcom fault text that points towards a failure in the ABS controller (which is as far as I can tell is caused by a failure of the PCB ribbon inside the controller). The only fix as far as I am aware is to replace the controller, but don't bother with new they are about £2k!

 

Do you have a fault code to confirm?

[Dox 23]

I think the vagcom code was 00255, I'll check again and repost, the fault remained the same with the other ecu fitted, its an ebay ecu so anything is possible.

 

I fetched the car from the IOM 2 years ago with the abs light on, replaced an OSR sensor and passed the mot - the cars first ever! The abs light bulb blew and the car has been sorn for 12 months, I've replaced the bulb on the circuit board but the light remains on even when the fault is cleared with vagcom, ignition off and restart and the code is back.

 

I'll attempt to move the car for better access later this week and remove the relays for examination.

 

Thanks for everyones comments

 

---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

 

Has it been on Vagcom? If so, whats it pointing to? If you remove the outer cover of the old ecu you took out, you will see if it had been exposed to water and causing your problems from the start, but if you've replaced it with a known good one and the problem still persists, its more likely the fault lyes somewhere else obviously. Sensors are the most common problem, even if they've not been exposed to salt. Here is a link for when I did my golf, not entirely the same system, but basic rules still apply with regard to testing the sensors.

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

 

 

I've replaced a few sensors on various cars I've owned, I agree with you, crush them and get them out in bits.

[AlexDG 0]

I think the vagcom code was 00255

 

Sounds remarkably similar to the fault code I had which was: '00275 - ABS Outlet Valve, Right Rear (N135)', this code pointed to an error with the valve in the hydraulic controller in the engine bay. As far as I can ascertain there is no easy way to fix this because it is related to the electrics inside the controller (I have one partially disassembled and there is no obvious way of accessing the electrical gubbins easily).

 

Just so that we are clear the controller I am talking about is the component in the engine bay with all the brake lines connected to it, not the ABS ECU.

 

Hope that helps?

Edited November 12, 2012 by AlexDG

[Dox 23]

Sounds remarkably similar to the fault code I had which was: '00275 - ABS Outlet Valve, Right Rear (N135)', this code pointed to an error with the valve in the hydraulic controller in the engine bay. As far as I can ascertain there is no easy way to fix this because it is related to the electrics inside the controller (I have one partially disassembled and there is no obvious way of accessing the electrical gubbins easily).

 

Just so that we are clear the controller I am talking about is the component in the engine bay with all the brake lines connected to it, not the ABS ECU.

 

Hope that helps?

 

I understand what you're saying. Did you swap the pump assy? Did that cure the fault?

[AlexDG 0]

Did you swap the pump assy?

Yes

 

Did that cure the fault?

Yes

[Dox 23]

Yes

 

 

Yes

 

Did you fit a used unit or a recon unit?

[AlexDG 0]

I fitted a used one, a gamble true, but I don't know of anywhere that does reconditioned ones and as mentioned earlier new from VW is about £2k.

Obviously if reconditioned are available it would be the way forward...

[Dox 23]

I contacted BBAreman yesterday to see how much a pump repair would be if needed, their reply (I sent the chassis number with my enquiry).

 

"This maybe something we could repair for you, but we would initially need a part number to say for definite and to quote on prices. Our initial test fee is £35 plus carriage, plus vat, with a repair price of £100-195.00 plus carriage, plus vat. Turn round time is normally 2-3 working days in our workshop and once repaired the unit is covered by our lifetime warranty"

Edited November 14, 2012 by Dox

[Jon_vr6 1]

Thats good to know let us know how you get on

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[Dox 23]

Thats good to know let us know how you get on

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

I'm currently refitting the rebuilt cylinderhead to her golf tdi, once that's finished I can move the corrado where I can work on it.

[n3p 3]

I had valve codes when my ABS packed in a while back, bought a used ABS pump from here for pretty cheap and it fixed the problem. What we found was that when we plugged the ABS pump electrical connector into the new one (not having removed the old one at all - lines still attached), there were no codes and the light operated correctly.

 

It's a bit of a squeeze getting a second pump up to the connector, but do-able!

[Dox 23]

I had valve codes when my ABS packed in a while back, bought a used ABS pump from here for pretty cheap and it fixed the problem. What we found was that when we plugged the ABS pump electrical connector into the new one (not having removed the old one at all - lines still attached), there were no codes and the light operated correctly.

 

It's a bit of a squeeze getting a second pump up to the connector, but do-able!

 

I've found the same for abs sensors, plug a new sensor in and clear codes to confirm the sensor to be at fault - open circuit. If the fault only appears when driving then this wont work obviously.

 

The problem is finding a known good pump, ebay breakers will sell any old tat untested despite what they tell you.

[Dox 23]

Bled the corrado brakes to try and rid the car of the dreaded light on the dash caused by the inlet valve fault - many have reported heavy use of the brakes after a fluid change helps clear these codes.

 

 

 

First flush on the right, second on the left :-/

 

The plan now is to wedge the pedal down to try and clear the sticky inlet valve - the car is sorn ATM