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Stealth engine rebuild oil choice

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I've owned my third corrado vr6 for only three days now and remember putting 10 40 oil in my previous engines, but now I have an engine that was rebuilt by stealth racing back in 2005, it's done 75,000 miles and uses the mahle 82.5 overbore pistons. So what oil should I be using in this engine? Should i be using a fully synthetic oil or should I just put the synta vw stuff in there?

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I'd put in what vw intended, it's still the same engine with the same tolerances, but any quality branded oil of the right spec should be fine.

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Stealth would probably recommend 5-40 fully synth but at 75k it's getting on a bit... I'd only use it if it's been run on it since the rebuild... You could maybe try it first as it's cold and see if it uses much then change to 10-40 in the summer if consumption is high... as David says above, it's a good oil and cheap so you can change regularly.

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Cheers for the replies guys, could I expect the engine to burn a bit of oil at 75,000? The last vr I had (4 yrs ago)had 140,000 on the clock went like stink but used a litre every 800 miles! And am I best changing the oil at 5k intervals as I'm getting a bit paranoid about prolonging the life of the engine, they do run hot dont they!

Also on another note I used to remember my old vr used to have quite a pronounced kick at 4000 rpm where it would take off, but the one I have now with the stealth build seems to pick up a bit higher up the rev range at 5000, it still goes really well but just a different power delivery?

I have a rolling road print out of 198bhp and 192lbft from 2005 when the engine had 2500 miles on the clock so I might get it on a rolling road again, but then I have been driving a diesel with 245bhp/370lbft for the last three years?? I've forgotten how you drive a petrol car now!

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Hi, have also had a stealth rebuild and am using synta silver - prob done about 8k on it and it still burns a little bit of oil but I think that's pretty normal for a vr, think the manual says up to 1l per 1000 miles! Wouldn't have thought it would be that high at 75k though.

 

Have to say the power on mine still kicks in around 4000 rpm - will dig out the rr print out if you like from about 5k after the rebuild...

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Hi, have also had a stealth rebuild and am using synta silver - prob done about 8k on it and it still burns a little bit of oil but I think that's pretty normal for a vr, think the manual says up to 1l per 1000 miles! Wouldn't have thought it would be that high at 75k though.

 

Have to say the power on mine still kicks in around 4000 rpm - will dig out the rr print out if you like from about 5k after the rebuild...

 

How much would you say yours uses every 1000 miles then fella?

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Hmm interesting, it almost feels like my engine is still really tight, but it does go really well, will be interested to see your rolling road printout pbradley, ill post mine up for comparison.

And I think ill just stick to the synta silver stuff too:-)

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I knew someone would ask that! Not sure off the top off my head but may have it in my folder of receipts - at a guess maybe a litre every 3000?

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I knew someone would ask that! Not sure off the top off my head but may have it in my folder of receipts - at a guess maybe a litre every 3000?

 

Ah thats alright just wanted to know for reference fella cheers

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Here's my dyno printout, would the fact that I have a bhp and tourqe figures quite evenly matched that I don't get the kick at 4000rpm? looking at the power graph it looks like I have a very linear smooth power delivery and it is quite torquey low down?

image_zpsaff28cbd.jpg

image_zps6c3b922b.jpg

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It was always run on the 10w40 synta silver or the equivalent from gsf Matt. (They stopped stocking it). Hope you are enjoying it mate.

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It was always run on the 10w40 synta silver or the equivalent from gsf Matt. (They stopped stocking it). Hope you are enjoying it mate.

 

Ahh well done edd, top man i'll get some ordered;-) and cheers also dox i'll check that out too

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Btw Matt there is someone selling an lc6v green bonnet on eBay at the moment, may be worth asking them if they have a drivers side wing.

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Sorry for slow response - have now got the torque and power graphs below from two runs.

 

You can see why you feel the kick at 4000 rpm! If you're getting it more round 5, might be worth getting it redone although unsure as to if / why peak torque speed would have changed - would be interesting to see if there is much difference if the cars still in the same spec as the original...

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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Interesting phil, tbh I've been driving a diesel for so long now there is probably nothing wrong with my power delivery! it does pull harder at 4000 but its been a good five years since I've driven/owned a vr6! and this is my third (well forth but I've just sold one)

When was the rolling road done on your engine? just after you had run it in? or after a few thousand miles under its belt? And is it standard?

All mine has from standard are the overbored 82.5 pistons and a Bmc induction kit and my rolling road was done after the engine had done 3000 miles from a full rebuild so was probably quite tight.

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Yep was done 6000 miles after the rebuild - Vince reckoned it was still a little tight as the higher power result was after we'd let the engine cool down for a bit so might well do it again in the summer by which time it should have covered 12 - 15k.

 

Engine is standard except for jetex stainless exhaust and vibratechnics front engine mounting.

 

 

Know exactly what you mean about driving a diesel versus a vr - I'm rubbish at driving my other half's TDI!!!

Edited by pbradley98

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