fla 9 Posted October 18, 2013 15" just look too small to me on a Corrado Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeVR6 0 Posted October 18, 2013 15" just look too small to me on a Corrado Yup. And 17's are too hard. So 16's it has to be. Anyway. The big end bearing thing is solved. So we should move this to another thread. I had one in the Gallery section somewhere. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 18, 2013 The hunting is more than likely casued by you not having a straight inlet track to your MAF. The Charger causes turbulence and this makes the idle choppy and prone to stalling. I ran an 80mm tube from the charger to the passenger side (along the cross member) and mounted my MAF by the front engine mount and an airfilter in the corner of the passenger side bumper. My idle is now smoother than a standard VR6 and I have poly mounts......that is smooth! Yeah that's the way to do it and also make sure the MAF still has it's air straightener on it. If I had the kept the charger on mine, I would have relocated the battery to the boot and run the pipe up into a proper air box where the battery used to sit. Open cones under the car where it's filthy and wet half of the year, hmmmmm, not great. I lost a few MAFs because of that! 288s are a lot better than 280s although I also did my hoses (steel braided) and upgraded the pads too. Pedal still travels a fair bit before they really bite. Some folks on here have said that is how they like them as the braking is progressive. Althought I drive a MK7 golf as my daily and when I get in the Corrado I always crap myself as it feels like the pedal drops 2" before any braking happens in comparisson ;) Yeah 288s have bigger pistons which displace more fluid, which then requires more pedal movement! To keep the OEM pedal feel as well as adding more power, you need the MK4's 24mm MC as well, but VW in their infinite wisdom decided to give the Corrado's brake servo a unique 45 degree stud axis for the Master Cylinder, when all other VWs have a horizontal stud axis. Yeah, cheers for that VW. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeVR6 0 Posted October 21, 2013 Yeah that's the way to do it and also make sure the MAF still has it's air straightener on it. If I had the kept the charger on mine, I would have relocated the battery to the boot and run the pipe up into a proper air box where the battery used to sit. Open cones under the car where it's filthy and wet half of the year, hmmmmm, not great. I lost a few MAFs because of that! Sounds the ticket. Do you reckon Vince could take care of that. And what parts do I need to order from where? I have all the original breathing apparatus for the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hofmiester 10 Posted October 21, 2013 I used a double skin 80mm neoprene hose, about £60 on ebay. Dont buy the single skin as the pipe is sitting pretty close to the road. You dont want to get a hole in the intake pipe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 21, 2013 Sounds the ticket. Do you reckon Vince could take care of that. And what parts do I need to order from where? I have all the original breathing apparatus for the car. Absolutely he could do it, but if it's the full works (I.e. relocate battery to the boot), I have no idea how long he'd take or how much he'd charge! Something else worth considering is this type of arrangement, designed and built by Canadian VR6 turbo specialists, HPA Motorsports :- http://www.hpamotorsports.com/vr6-typhoon.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 31, 2016 I was just searching internet about my new engine build spinning the bearings and i reckon this is the time Vince is referring to. Not sure if Mike is still in here but wonder how the latest engine is? I'm waiting for Vince to strip my engine to investigate. I find it strange that longer valves caused Mikes bearing problems. How does that work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeVR6 0 Posted July 31, 2016 Still here. :cheers: The engine's had circa 7k miles now since the rebuild and still going strong. I'm no engine expert but iirc Vince said the longer valves (we're talking fractions of mm here) were colliding with the pistons, stopping them going to full stroke and feeding back to the conrods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 31, 2016 Hi Mike. Thanks for the update. Mine did 3000miles and then went. Which i find weird, Vince reckons the block is twisted. I'm just trying to understand it as it was a new unused block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted August 1, 2016 Surely if the block was twisted you wouldn't have even been able to turn the crankshaft? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
