G60 ignition timing

[dubkicks 10]

Hi

Would any of you know the correct way to set the G60 ignition timing. does the blue water sensor need to be disconnected and raised to a certain RPM? or is it a case of pointing the timing gun at the crank pully without doing anything else? I have got a Bently manual but cant get the bloody disc to load up because i dont have windows 5 and i am not the best with computers any how. cheers.

[owen g60 10]

I've got a Bentley you can borrow if you need.

[davidwort 0]

Not sure on the g60 but all other digifants you pull the water temp plug, rev at a steady 2,500 and take the base timing reading (6 deg +/-1), yes.

[wormy 0]

Not sure on the g60 but all other digifants you pull the water temp plug, rev at a steady 2,500 and take the base timing reading (6 deg +/-1), yes.

 

This :-)

According to the Bentley the cooling fans should've been on atleast once, and the engine should then be rev'ed to over 3'000 three times iirc, so you're certain it comes into warm mode.

I usually set it at approx. 8-9, for a bit more "umph".. Depends on your chip/setup though!

Just be careful, as you turn the distributor the revs can suddenly increase alot if the timing was out, so tell the one keeping the throttle steady to be aware!

 

I'd also recommend you find the " | " mark on the flywheel (not the "0") through the inspection-hole before you start doing the timing work. And put some white tipex(?) or something on the " | " mark, so you can easier find it.

[Supercharged 2]

Always best to set to 6 BTDC first and check it runs ok, mark that point with tippex on the dizzy and then maybe try a couple more degrees but make sure you have a decent tank of 98/99 RON and bare in mind you'll always need to use this.

 

Marking it's useful so you can go back to 6 if you get any pinking as it gets warmer or you get a sh1t tank of fuel etc.

[dubkicks 10]

Cheers all much appreciated. many thanks Kev.

[STU175 0]

i found this extremely usefull when i done mine

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38512-Definitive-G60-Timing-Belt-Setting&highlight=definitive+g60+timing

[welshlad73 10]

if you have access to an old crypton tuner, you can do a proper job with ignition advance. Set basic timing first then adjust the ignition advance on the timing gun gauge.

Edited March 3, 2013 by welshlad73

[jaxone 10]

hello and sorry for hijacking this :)

 

I am a bit lost here because there are some differences on the guides I have seen on the net regarding ignition timing.

 

This is what I could gather :

 

1. have the engine at working temperature. Let it idle.

2. Pull the connector on the blue coolant temp sensor

3. Rev the engine 3 times over 3000 rpm so the Digifant goes into programming mode.

4. Let engine Idle then bring it up to 2250-2500 rpm and set the timing with a timing light.

5. let engine idle.

6. rev engine 3 times over 3000rpm

7. LEt engine idle and put connector on the blue temp sensor.

 

Now some guides will say after timing you need to rev it only once over 3000 , others say rev it 3 times over 4000.

Then some guides say to put the blue temp connector AFTER you rev it , some say put it on before you rev it ?

 

Which one is it ?

 

I have tried today to adjust the timing on my G60 and while I was doing it I could see the exhaust manifold started smoking and looking at it I could see it started glowing RED !! Heating !

 

Is this normal ? Looks like unburned fuel to me ?

 

Thank you in advance.

[Yandards 0]

Jaxone, all timing adjustments and checking are done with the BTS disconnected.

 

Rev requirement comes from the digifant workshop manual video which states over 3k 3 times to put digi into setting mode. However, there is no mention of this in the G60 workshop manual or in the G60 workshop manual video.

 

You do have to set the timing dynamically (ie engine running) at a rev range of 2-2.5k, at that point the timing needs to be 6 deg BTDC, so I usually aim for 2250 RPM at 6 deg BTDC as that is bang in the middle.

 

As for your hot manifold, there is a chance you timing is 180 degrees out if that is happening, use the link mentioned above and read the entire thread about G60 timing.

[jaxone 10]

Thanks for the answer but I don't understand how could my ignition be 180 dgrees out ? What do you mean by that.

When I put the car at TDC all marks fit 100%.

 

So how can my ignition timing be 180 degrees out ? Please elaborate a bit on this.

 

Thank you again.

 

---------- Post added at 7:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:31 PM ----------

 

Hmmm, I think I forgot something from all this ... the intermediate shaft .... I totally forgot about it.

 

So I adjusted that also and now it's spot on.

 

What is the role of the intermediary shaft other than to spin the dizzy head ?

Does it really matter on what position it is placed as long as the Ignition "|" mark it's spot on on the piston one ?

 

I did not adjusted the ignition timing again as its pretty late here and the Hartmann pot makes quite some noise.

 

Will try to adjust ignition again and see what gives but still interested to know the role of the intermediate shaft and the 180 degrees ignition thing.

 

Thank you in advance.

Edited March 4, 2013 by jaxone

[Yandards 0]

It is possible to set up the car at 180 degrees out if you don't use the 0 deg timing mark on the flywheel, you can get all the dots aligned at the cambelt end but not have the flywheel at 0 deg BTDC as the bottom end of the engine requires 2 full rotations to every single rotation of the cam.

 

The intermediate shaft on a G60 drives both the oil pump and the dizzy.

 

The dizzy timing is only a rough set as you need to set it dynamically (engine running) at 4-8 BTDC at 2-2.5k RPM so aim for 4 deg BTDC at 2250 RPM, as such as long as the car starts and warms up the dizzy timing is ok on a 'static' timing setup until then. It is very difficult to correctly set the intermediate shaft pulley alignment as the inner wing gets in the way.

 

Hope that clears that up.

[jaxone 10]

Thanks I understand what you mean now but I aligned everything as per your instructions.

ALL dots are now in place, including the flywheel.

On the flywheel I have to marks, an "0" which should be the TDC and an "|" which should be the ignition.

 

I took out the tooth belt yesterday and aligned everything again.

Now the flywheel sits on "0" , the intermediate shaft is spot on the "V" and the camshaft is with the two markings on spot (used your screwdriver technique ) as per your guide.

 

I took out the dizzy and aligned it.

Then turned the engine with hand 4 times and the dots match still.

 

I did not tried to start it up today as I had no time but I think it will start up just fine.

Will adjust timing when warm with the timing light and come again with the results but I am still afraid it will run rich on idle although the AFR gauge never goes over 14.6 or something like this, I still can smell fuel when idle and the consumption on MFA shows average 18L/100km !!! Insane.

[Yandards 0]

Keep in mind that it is during the warm up process that the most modification is made to the G60s fuelling, engine temperature can add up ot 25% extra fuel at this point.

 

It is worth checking the blue temp sensor is working correctly and the idle switch on the throttle body also works as required.

 

If your AFR is working ok at low temperature then I would not worry too much, also keep in mind that the engine does not go onto lambda loop control until 70 deg C is reached.