Michael'durham' 10 Posted April 25, 2013 Hi guys, This lovely Red VR6 is dead and has been well cooked, after it was hooked up to a forklift for a jump start, once the key was turned the increase power moved the left on windscreen wipes go hyper speed and 'pop' the cars electrical system wiped out the lot. The high 24volts were way more then acceptable :( The aftermath. Car now completely dead, no dash lights. What's been replaced at a local garage where it's now parked looking sad are: ECU NEW FUSE BOX FUSES COIL PACK any ideas guys? Car I found out today has been off the road for around 18mths :( we need her back out there as its a beauty. HELP,!!!!! THANKS IN ADVANCE. Michael Sorry in advance for future Bumps to find a solution. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrahamU 6 Posted April 25, 2013 Seems strange they replaced the fuse box, that should take 24v no problem. Most of the car should be ok, alot can depend onwhat was switched on when it was connected up. When you say its dead, how dead do you mean? Does it turn over, fire etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael'durham' 10 Posted April 25, 2013 It now turns over but will not fire up. guess we are now seeking a check list of things in order to check/sort and go from there.... the place it's at is a standard back street mechanic place. was a means to store it and get worked on in there spare hours. but my friend Mark hasn't seen it on the road for 18mth, I'm guessing they don't get much free time there.... Hahaha. yeah so a good check list now needed: As obvious things been replaced. Thanks for reply :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkFoster 0 Posted April 25, 2013 Immobiliser may be adding to your woes.... It's probably worth biting the bullet and getting a decent auto electrician to look at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael'durham' 10 Posted April 25, 2013 All alarm/toad crap removed at start. I agree on auto electrician too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael'durham' 10 Posted April 25, 2013 Relays? Ill text him that, wonder if old relays are still in place. Wonder which are the starting ones Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 25, 2013 ECU, Fuel pump and X relief - these are 109, 168 and 18 I think! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted April 25, 2013 Factory immobiliser doesn't cut everything off until 2s after the engine's been started, so it shouldn't be that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lewvw 10 Posted April 25, 2013 +1 for relays. If it's at a garage have they pinned it down to a specific area? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) ignition switch... they're dodgy as hell from the factory, and the extra load that lobbing 24V through the system whilst popping ECUs etc will almost certainly have cooked that too... They're about £25 from the stealers and someone helpful (*cough* :lol: ) wrote a rather good guide to how to fit them that's on here somewhere! ;) Oh, and check the injectors... I can't imagine that the solenoid coils will have liked having 24V shoved through them either! Edited April 26, 2013 by Henny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 26, 2013 The engine is turning over on the starter yes? Is fuel being injected - plugs wet after cranking? Is there a spark at the plugswhen cranking? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Right, Had a bit of a think on this whilst trying to learn how to use a Mac in a windows environment (don't ask!) and I've drawn up the following list of the electrical bits that could be damaged by doing this that'd actually stop a VR6 from starting, what (at least, what I think! :lol:) would be the likely outcome/s should that be the faulty bit, and some possible tests... Battery -> Nothing electrical works ;) -> Try another battery! Fuse box -> Various things don't work (or nothing works!), or work when they shouldn't, or give out smoke/burning smells and/or flames! -> You've already got a new fuse box, so this can be counted as tested! Wiring -> Various things don't work, or work when they shouldn't, or give out smoke/burning smells and/or flames! -> Auto electrician time, or break out the multimeter and wiring diagram to check all the wiring... :| Alarm/immobiliser -> Engine won't run. Depending on how the immobiliser has been fitted, could be no starter, no fuel or no spark, or any combination of those... -> Auto electrician time... Ignition switch -> Engine may or may not turn but won't fire, normally with no spark and no fuel. Or, may begin to run, then die when the key is released. -> Try a new switch, they're only £20 and a new one can be used to test without removing the old one ;) Relays -> Fuel pump relay will result in no fuel, you won't hear the fuel pump prime. X-Relay and ECU relay will result in no power to the ECU, so no fuel and no spark, OR may allow the engine to start but then die when the ignition key is released... -> check relay operation on all 3 relays, check for 12V at ECU and 12V at fuel pump, both when key is on ignition and when turned to start position. ECU -> Could give no spark, or no fuel, or both, or WAAAYYYY too much fuel... -> You've already swapped this, so count this as possibly tested. Coil and Distributor /coil pack and crank sensor -> no spark, or very poor spark -> You've swapped the coil pack, but you need to check the crank sensor to make sure it's signalling properly... break out the multi meter! Fuel pump -> no fuel and no sound from fuel pump at any time. -> test by bridging fuel pump relay and sending 12V straight to the pump Starter motor/solenoid -> Engine won't turn over -> test by putting 12V to the solenoid ENSURING THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR!!! Injectors -> no fuel, or not enough fuel if the coils are damaged, or just possibly waaaaaayyyy too much fuel if they've jammed open! -> Check resistance/impedance of each injector against a known good injector Other things that may have been damaged to watch out for that may make it run (or appear to run) very badly: Aux water pump, all temp and pressure sensors, dashboard instruments, idle stabilisation system (not sure how this works on a VR6 :oops: ), fan switch, Edited April 26, 2013 by Henny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 26, 2013 Crank sensor should be OK as there's no direct path onto the 12V lines. The cam sensor might be fried though as that takes 12V from the ignition circuits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted April 30, 2013 If you've swapped the ecu, did you get the chip from the keys to go with it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael'durham' 10 Posted April 30, 2013 Guys I've been busy this week, but I've just read all of your wonderful suggestions. I intend to print all of these and assist with the Owner (Mark) to the Garage where it's at and get him sorted. I shall upload a few photos of her too... Your all superstars Regards Michael :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HF TURBO 10 Posted May 9, 2013 any luck with this one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
