mrbeige 0 Posted August 20, 2007 who is that handsome helper you've got there?!!! :lol: We got loads done, really impressed that it all come out without a hitch. Shows its been looked after by you and the previous owners. Can't wait to see the next stage of the project now! Not sure about being looked after by me?? Not done much with the engine bay myself prior to this, so maybe the previous owners were sympathetic to her! The next stage is sorting the wiring out....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 20, 2007 looks like a fun filled weekend, well done lads! To be fair, I've not had as much fun doing car stuff before and its very satisfying to say you'd done it yourself, with a little help from Michael, of course :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nocrap 0 Posted August 20, 2007 Well done guys! I hope your keeping a picture diary of this! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 20, 2007 Well done guys! I hope your keeping a picture diary of this! Of course! Gonna keep this thread updated, and also gonna do a website I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 29, 2007 Made some more progress on stripping down the 9a..... Seem to have quite a few nuts and bolts :lol: When I took the oil pump off, it rattled and this fell out.... :shock: Do you reckon that could be the cause of my sheite oil pressure when giving it beans? (10mm spanner there for a bit of scale) Anyway, managed to get this bugger out.... Was struggling to keep the pulley still whilst trying to get the central bolt out, so cunningly wrapped the cam belt around that and the crank pulley, turned it until it locked then managed to undo the bolt! using a bar with a 24mm crankedring spanner on the end of it! How bloody tight was that! Took the intermediate shaft out, and noticed this just behind the pulley...looks like the bearing shell has disintegrated?? Also wanted to know whether this lower front panel is beyond repair, it looks bloody terrible :shock: Close up... Clutch looked in pretty good shape... How the hell do you get these bolts out to get the flywheel off? Can't seem to keep the flywheel stationary to do it. Should I have done this when the engine was in less pieces? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted August 30, 2007 Wow, good progress there mate. Looks like you've been working hard to get it sorted. For the flywheel bolts you need to lock it in position, you can get a tool specifically for the job but I'm sure someone will tell you an ''on the fly'' way of doing it! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dec 1 Posted August 30, 2007 Nice work! That front panel should be repairable, as most of it isn't structural anyway! Mine looked something similar. I just used a wire brush + sandpaper to strip it all back to bare metal. Gave it a few coats of rust proofing, and then three coats of black hammerite. One question though!......Is that a coolant pipe that runs through the front panel? I don't have one there on my early valver, so was just curious! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 30, 2007 Nice work! That front panel should be repairable, as most of it isn't structural anyway! Mine looked something similar. I just used a wire brush + sandpaper to strip it all back to bare metal. Gave it a few coats of rust proofing, and then three coats of black hammerite. One question though!......Is that a coolant pipe that runs through the front panel? I don't have one there on my early valver, so was just curious! :lol: Cheers dude, I'm glad that the front panel is rescuable(sp?)! That pipe comes from the power steering pump, and I'm guessing it is a means to cool the fluid down, although, I can't see it having much effect! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted August 30, 2007 Just been reading your thread, quite a bit of work done!!! :shock: How was the motor running before you took it apart? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted August 30, 2007 To get the flywheel bolts out it would be good to have soe compression, but, I'd put a couple of the hex bolts int he bottom crank pulley and put a bar through them, then undo the bolts. they shouldn't be stupidly tight... The bearing doesn't look too special! whink thats a rather bad sign along with the random chunk! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 30, 2007 Just been reading your thread, quite a bit of work done!!! :shock: How was the motor running before you took it apart? I try not to hang about when doing stuff, although running out of money will be my main reason for slow progress.... As far as how the engine was running....schitt! Very rattly top end, although that could have been the buggered bearing shell?? Also the oil pressure kept dropping after giving it some 'beans' and when I turn the oil pump drive by hand, it is pretty noisy, so I reckon that was buggered too. It also seemed to go down on power if giving it beans for a reasonable amount of time, but that might be the knock sensors retarding the timing, as the wiring for one of the sensors seemed be very brittle and cracked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 30, 2007 To get the flywheel bolts out it would be good to have soe compression, but, I'd put a couple of the hex bolts int he bottom crank pulley and put a bar through them, then undo the bolts. they shouldn't be stupidly tight... I'll give that a whirl, otherwise is there a special flywheel locking tool? VW special? The bearing doesn't look too special! whink thats a rather bad sign along with the random chunk! Yeah as I said above the oil pump seems noisy and the engine seemed quite 'rattly', before I pulled it apart :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted August 30, 2007 What you need is an air-powered impact gun. That'd make short work of those bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 30, 2007 What you need is an air-powered impact gun. That'd make short work of those bolts. That's very true, but unfortunately I don't have one :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted August 31, 2007 I try not to hang about when doing stuff, although running out of money will be my main reason for slow progress.... As far as how the engine was running....schitt! Very rattly top end, although that could have been the buggered bearing shell?? Also the oil pressure kept dropping after giving it some 'beans' and when I turn the oil pump drive by hand, it is pretty noisy, so I reckon that was buggered too. It also seemed to go down on power if giving it beans for a reasonable amount of time, but that might be the knock sensors retarding the timing, as the wiring for one of the sensors seemed be very brittle and cracked. I know the feeling of being broke well.... :( Missing Ed38 as I need evey penny to finish of the C. What mileage was your car showing? I was planning to rebuild my 9a and stick a turbo on as well, in two minds tho, heart says yes but wallet says just get a 20v turbo lump.... :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted August 31, 2007 What you need is an air-powered impact gun. That'd make short work of those bolts. That's very true, but unfortunately I don't have one :( Dunno if they are any good, but netto are doing an electric 800w impact gun for £19.99 LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 31, 2007 What you need is an air-powered impact gun. That'd make short work of those bolts. That's very true, but unfortunately I don't have one :( Dunno if they are any good, but netto are doing an electric 800w impact gun for £19.99 LOL Ooooh, for 19.99, it might be worth a punt! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted August 31, 2007 Asked my mate, he said its only worth it if the impact force is above 180Nm, might take a look at lunch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted September 3, 2007 Picked up my 2e off the Toad-meister at Edition 38, so should start building up the engine as soon as I can lay my hands on a cheap engine stand.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted September 5, 2007 Made a little more progress tonight..... Engine number two.....stripped block down, just need to get the pulleys off, but leaving them to soak in WD40 over night.. Bores look in good nick too :D Pretty sure you can still see the honing marks Hmmm loads of 2e parts.... And loads of 9a parts.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted September 6, 2007 I offered the 16v head up to the 2e block and drops on, no problem the two locator pins are even in the right place!. The only thing I need to check is; the 2e pistons don't have any cutouts to clear the inlet valves. Are the valves likely to hit the pistons? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted September 6, 2007 They should be fine. The 2e pistons are slightly shorter as the combustion chamber is in the block rather than in the head as seen on the 16v. You should notice that at tdc the 2e pistons are slighty lower than those on the 9a. Admittedly I just made that up in my head, from things I may or may not have heard, so you might want to test it. :oops: Glad it's all looking good mate. have been really impressed with the engines I've stripped. VW certainly made the 4 cylinder units well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted September 6, 2007 They should be fine. The 2e pistons are slightly shorter as the combustion chamber is in the block rather than in the head as seen on the 16v. You should notice that at tdc the 2e pistons are slighty lower than those on the 9a. Admittedly I just made that up in my head, from things I may or may not have heard, so you might want to test it. :oops: Glad it's all looking good mate. have been really impressed with the engines I've stripped. VW certainly made the 4 cylinder units well. I'm not too sure about the TDC between the two, I'm pretty sure they both come up to the 'deck' of the block. Is the 2e head flat, Tom? As far as the design of the 4-pot blocks, the two I've got seem pretty solid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted September 6, 2007 I will tip it over and take a poke round it tonight mate. The pistons on the 2e are quite dished aren't they? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted September 6, 2007 I will tip it over and take a poke round it tonight mate. The pistons on the 2e are quite dished aren't they? Yeah they are, but around the circumference of the piston they are quite raised. Check the pic above ^^^^ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
