delfinis38 1 Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) read all the how too's, need a bit more help..... have changed all pipes and hoses so initially nothing in the system. got an easy bleed that works well, put a g clamp on the brake load comp. bleed all four corners / 2 on the ABS / master cylinder and clutch slave numerous times. the system has taken about 3/4 litre of dot 4. there is no air in the system but the brake pedal still feels very spongy...... with the ignition off the pedal does what I would expect it to do but with the engine running pedal goes down quite along way and very spongy..... do I need the ignition on to bleed brakes.... I read it's the case with a US spec rado. Also I assume with the rear jacked up and a foot on the brake pedal, the rear brake wont lock fully due to brake load comp (no weight on the rear)... thanks for any help and advice..... tomorrow is another day.... Edited August 21, 2013 by delfinis38 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted August 21, 2013 Yeah ignition on definitely helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted August 21, 2013 Yeah ignition on definitely helps Cheers will have a look in the morning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.ots 10 Posted August 21, 2013 The full system capacity is almost a litre, so from a fairly empty system you will still have air in there. Try bleeding again once more and it should cure it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted August 22, 2013 The full system capacity is almost a litre, so from a fairly empty system you will still have air in there. Try bleeding again once more and it should cure it. bleed the system twice again today. (think that's six times in total now). starting to get a decent brake pedal. shame I cant test it in anger as the car is Sorn, however I have a 50 metre private drive. will give the brakes a final bleed tomorrow. Assume I only got 3/4 litre of fluid in because their was still some of the orig fluid going down to the clutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted August 22, 2013 Always worth running the car out for a bit to let any air still in there work its way round and then do a final bleed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.ots 10 Posted August 25, 2013 When I replaced my hard lines and flexis I'm pretty sure I ran through over 2 litres to get all of the air out. If it's still not as firm as it should be then it will only be air unless you have a slight leak somewhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) When I replaced my hard lines and flexis I'm pretty sure I ran through over 2 litres to get all of the air out. If it's still not as firm as it should be then it will only be air unless you have a slight leak somewhere. Going to let it settle for a few days and try again. How should a vr pedal feel ? The only thing I could compare it to is my new Audi and polo. Which you only have to touch the foot brake with limited travel. The corrado pedal is lighter with more travel not as responsive but does stop. Maybe I should pump a few more litres through. Got bit involved in changing handbrake cables yest. Edited August 26, 2013 by delfinis38 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hofmiester 10 Posted August 26, 2013 I find that the VR pedal travels further than a modern car before the real stopping begins. Not very progressive. Compared to my wife's 2011 Fabia, again with factory 288s it's the same feel so I think it is normal. Compared to the Mk7 golf GT, the brakes feel terrible :( That's progress though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted August 26, 2013 I find new cars its a case they are either off or on, no inbetween slow braking Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.ots 10 Posted August 26, 2013 You can't compare the corrado to a more modern audi or vw for pedal feel. It will have more travel and require a bit more force but should still stop effectively. Can you get the fronts to lock/abs to kick in? If you are still not too sure then either take it somewhere and have it checked or find a forum member near you so you can make a comparison with their car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 26, 2013 I almost headbutt the windscreen using my dads audi brakes. Just a slight touch and you really notice the brake clamping on. Corrado does feel weird but you get usef to it. When I bled mine I went round in the order you have. I remember pumping the brake with the ezi bleed connected then bleeding again and something seemed to work alot better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted August 26, 2013 I had the same problem awhile back , I bled everything! inc abs & master cyl bleed nipples, with two different pressure bleeders, vacum and a regular pressure bleeder off a tyre {the best one imo} in the end I gave up on trying to make it feel better and just drove it, gotten used to it with the brakes working fine, I also had a noise which came from the ABS pump upon initial start up {kinda like a starter motor noise} which didn't occur if I held down the brake when starting, so every time I started up I would hold down the brake pedal, doesn't do that noise anymore, im assuming air was trapped in abs pump which has now been slowly pushed out? not sure but my brakes work fine, pedal isn't rock solid but im sure that's how these are... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted August 26, 2013 Found it working better without using the pressure bleeder, doing it the old fashioned way of one person pressing the pedal and one on the bleed nipples worked better Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fonzooorooo 10 Posted August 26, 2013 I tried an eezi-bleed years ago on my old mk3 polo... It kinda worked, but didn't do the job properly. I've always used 2 man method with the engine running since. I know it's possible for a master cylinder to die like that (using the piston in a range it doesn't normally work in, pulling in rust/dirt/nasty) but if that happens, I figure it must've been well on the way before(!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted August 26, 2013 I tried an eezi-bleed years ago on my old mk3 polo... It kinda worked, but didn't do the job properly. I've always used 2 man method with the engine running since. I know it's possible for a master cylinder to die like that (using the piston in a range it doesn't normally work in, pulling in rust/dirt/nasty) but if that happens, I figure it must've been well on the way before(!) I agree, but I use the eezi bleed for service/changing fluid every year or two and resort to other methods if needing to get pedal feel back after doing major brake component changes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatton VR6 0 Posted August 26, 2013 Agree with above two posts. I believe ezzi bleed can damage master cylinder seals if the air pressure used is too high, I always found that I got much better results with the two man method. I would have another go but with the two man method. My 12 year old will be learning this method very soon as I have a caliper to change! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites