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sheppeydave

Timing belt change on 16v corrado 1990??

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Hello so could anyone tell me how to tension the belt up without the bottom crank pulley moving slightly??ligned it all up top dead centre with the flywheel and cam pulley is aligned just having trouble tensioning the belt up without the crank pulley moving 1 tooth??

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line it up..put car in gear

 

does take a bit of practice first time round , wind it round clockwise several times,recheck it and so on

 

dont start it until youre double sure its 100% right

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Ok all ligned up I think put the cam pulley to the mark on rocker cover and got the crank to top dead centre by rotating the flywheel and put the belt on tensioned it up crank pulley moves slightly once you tension the belt but I think you have 3mm of tolerance is that right and rotated manually 3 to 4 times and nothing hitting white mark on crank is lining up with arrow on timing cover and cam pulley is lining up with the rocker cover so good to go :-) how tight should the belt be I tightend it up first and while turning it over the tensioner cam loose do you have to nip the nut up really tight??

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no the tensioner nut is not that tight, if it's the early type, which it should be on a 1990 then it's about 45 Nm from memory (I'll check later from the book), the later 2.0 16v has a different tensioner and is not done up as tight, about half that IIRC, if you use a regular spanner you can do it pretty much spot on by hand (15mm I think), that's all I do, no need for a torque wrench. belt should be twistable with finger and thumb about 90 degrees between cam and intermediate shaft pulley, too tight and it will whine.

Edited by davidwort
changed incorrect stuff

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Hello there,

 

yeah basically as what DAVIDWORT has said above.

 

I take it you spun the tensioner to hear if the bearing with in it was warn,

or if the tensioner felt notchy to turn by hand back & fourth,

or if there was any play in the bearing (excess free play movement)

 

When I replace a cam belt I always replace the tensioner / idlers at the same time.

 

You should always torque up the tensioner bolt,

the correct torque is 33 ft-Ib (45Nm) for the 16v engine.

 

Once you've done that just double check the tension of the cam belt between the cam sprocket & intermediate sprocket,

then turn the engine over by hand via the crank sprocket bolt,

until the timing marks are realigned correctly and check again the tension on the belt.

The tension on the cam belt should be around 4mm, you should be able to twist the belt,

between 45 & 90 degree any more then this and the belt will be too lose,

the same if the belt can twist the full 90 degree it'll be on the lose side,

because the new belt will stretch over time,

it really needs to be between 45 and 90 degree.

(4mm max movement) if checking belts play back and fourth.

 

Tensioner torque setting is 33 ft-Ib (45Nm)

 

Water pump / power steering pump pulley's,

and the crankshaft pulley bolts to torque setting 15ft Ib (20Nm)

these are the 6mm Allen key bolts.

3 fitted to water pump pulley.

3 fitted to power steering pump pulley.

4 fitted to crankshaft vibration damper.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

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if you cant make it any closer by moving it a tooth then yeah it must be right , slightly off the mark is acceptable as the head may have been skimmed

 

tightness wise should be able to turn it 90 degs with your fingers on the straight side of the belt...but some people are stronger than others lol...it will howl if its too tight

 

the nut..im sure someone will along with a torque setting , but yeah good n tight with a normal size spanner , no need to go mental at it

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Hello there,

 

yes clockwise is the correct direction to rotate the tensioner round,

to tension the cam belt.

As the tensioner should lift up slightly as it tensions the belt,

this is due to the bolt hole through the tensioner being slightly off set,

so as to give it a oblong effect.

The centre of the tensioner should compress up against the block,

once the nut has been done up to the correct torque.

The centre of the tensioner then shouldn't move,

only the outer pulley part that the cam belt slides / runs in will spin only.

 

If the tensioner nut still won't do up enough to keep the centre part held,

then the threads could have gone in the nut,

or the stud threads may have gone.

Was there a washer in front of the nut,

or is it a serrated flange nut.

 

It's just that on some of these tensioners,

they're held in place with a spring washer and plain nut,

or it's a serrated flange nut that inter locks onto the serrated shoulder on the tensioner to keep it held tight in place.

 

You could always apply some lock tight to the stud / nut threads,

but only if their threads are in good condition.

 

This is what I mean by serrated flange nut

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Flange-Nuts-To-Fit-Our-Stainless-Bolts-and-Screws-/150792649468?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item231bf13afc

 

This is a plain nut

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-HEX-FULL-PLAIN-NUT-TO-FIT-OUR-A2-STAINLESS-BOLTS-AND-SCREWS-/290745065923?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item43b1c1a1c3

 

This is a nylon lock nut

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Nyloc-Nuts-To-Fit-Our-Stainless-Bolts-and-Screws-/150869240033?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item232081e8e1

 

 

There is a thread on this forum somewhere that DAVIDWORT mentions the difference in length,

of the 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v tensioner stud.

 

I'll see if I can find it.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

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