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vw rule

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vw rule last won the day on November 11

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About vw rule

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  1. Hello Stone, yeah I've been reading various different things online about the Walbro pumps and they do have good reviews, also I've read through an old thread off here from about 2006, and they talk about the Walbro pump and Sytec fuel pump. Link below of the thread I found, you might have already seen it ? Also watched a video on YouTube of a guy who had fitted a cheap in tank fuel pump, which had failed after only about 1 year, I think his Corrado is a VR6 but does have a Walbro pump fitted under car. Si
  2. Yeah definitely that would be a big help if you could please upload some photos of your setup, blimey possiblity of over 300bhp going through your front wheels, sounds like a rocket 🚀 Si
  3. No worries mate. For a moment I thought you'd uploaded a photo of the new Star Wars, fair play that welding helmet looks the business 👍 I'd definitely start with the thicker cut pieces of steel first, it'll be easier for you to weld longer on it, and give you more time to get familiar with the crackle sound, that'll change when you adjust the settings, but ideally you're after a good even crackle when you hit the sweet spot, plus you'll see the weld pool is flowing/melting evenly. Then when you've mastered the basics you can move onto the thinner metal's. You'll be there soon mate it's just practice practice practice 👍 Si
  4. No worries 👍 To be honest mig welding is one of the easiest to learn, so I'm sure you'll soon pick it up. I've used gas mig welders and none gas one's, definitely the gas migs are easier to learn on, as they're a bit more forgiving and tend to produce a cleaner weld. Where as the none gas migs you won't be able to stitch weld for long periods, as it'll blow holes in the car metal work, so you have to change your technique slightly by welding much shorter stitch welds, partly due to more heat being produced and only having adjustment for wire speed, well that's what my gasless mig has, whereas the gas mig you have will probably have more availability to adjust, with wire speed and wire thickness, so this will give you more finer control. The end products will look the same from either welder, but the gas mig will fully disperse or aid burning away the slag, whereas on the gasless mig you have to clean off sometimes the slag, but not always, if you prep the metal work more, i.e make sure the metal area is fully clean and virtually no surface rust, you'll get good clean contact to weld on and less chance of burning through the metal, which can happen if you haven't prepared the area enough, or you're welding too long in the same spot. The welder I have is the (Sealey Mightymig 100) this uses flux core welding wire, so it produces more heat as it has to burn melt the flux, which is why you have to change your technique slightly from welding with gas migs. Plus each welder unit performs slightly differently depending on type and age of it, so you'll have to learn the sweet spot on wire speeds for different gauged metal panels on your car, mine is somewhere close to 5 on the wire speed dial, but sometimes can be + or - Also on my mig welder I have to make sure the wire feeder tube to mig torch, is fairly straight when welding, if I have any slight bends or kinks in it, it can sometimes affect the wire delivery to mig torch, it looks like the wire feeder tube is reinforced but not fully, yours may well be fully reinforced. 1) always have your battery disconnected when welding. 2a) prepare the area best you can, cut out any rust and have good clean metal to weld to, plus have a good clean earth contact for your mig earth lead. 2b) prepare the area but make sure it's safe, if welding inside your car or have a hole in the floor, make sure the carpet is lifted up and out the way, including the underlay, basically any fabric/material will catch fire. Be aware of area's where you have fuel, or oil lines including brake lines, as they're a potential fire risk. 3) have good safety weld equipment, like welding helmet, thick leather welding cloves, possibly even upper arm leather sleeves, or leather welding apron if laying down under car welding. Fire extinguisher or if you have air compressor you could use the airline with air trigger, or use a damp cloth to put out anything quickly that has started to burn. Make sure you weld in a well ventilated area, so if in your garage at home leave the door open, plus you could wear a PPE face mask due to fumes from welding or from grinding. If grinding use ear plugs also. 4) make sure you have some spare copper welding tips can be 0.8mm or 1mm, depending what size weld wire you're using. Also at least one spare weld torch flash nozzle, and at least one spare brass connection rod. Basically the connection rod screws in the end of your welding torch, this is what your copper weld tips screw into, and what your torch flash nozzle attach to. 5) when first practicing to weld try different gauges of steel, from 5mm thick down to 1mm thick, it's far easier to weld 5mm thick steel as it takes slightly longer for the heat to penetrate through it, whereas 1mm thick steel like on most car body panels, this heats up super quick so is great to manipulate into shape, but is prone to warping or burning through if your welding torch is too close or held too long in one spot, but the more you practice the more you'll understand the characteristics of steel, and the weld pool i.e that you see in green through you welding mask. My advice is to either do a mig welding course or self teach yourself from reading about it or watching YouTube video's. back in the early 1990s I was at college where I learnt to weld, did bits with brazing, Tig and mig welding, out of the three only really needed mig as that was the main one I wanted to pickup. Hope this helps Si
  5. Regarding the rivnut idea you mentioned, that could work, but if they're too long then you'll have too much of the rivnut protruding up into carpet, unless you have one fitted under front seat, or under the rear seat, but that's only if one had rusted in those area's, if yours has rusted in the rear foot well area, you won't be able to fit one as it'll probably protrude up into the carpet too much ? Unless you fit the rivnut the other way round protruding out facing down to the ground, but then you'll have to modify the white plastic fuel pipe clip, to enable you to screw a bolt up through and into the rivnut. VW I think were doing the original threaded pop rivets or welded floor threaded pins a few years ago, I think they were selling in bags of 100 ? N90 261 401 = pop rivet for exhaust heat shield under car. N90 169 301 = welded floor pin threaded. N90 231 601 = welded floor pin threaded. Or it's to weld in a small bolt from inside of car, so only the small head of bolt is seen from inside, if the carpet or underlay is ever lifted. You'll then have the thread on bolt to screw into your original white plastic fuel clip. Bolt size you'll need that fits the white plastic fuel clip. Hex head 8mm, bolt stem M5, thread pitch 0.8mm. Hope this helps Si
  6. Yeah I've had a similar issue on mine, first was my original fuel pipe clips underneath same as in your photo, were splitting and disintegrating due to being 20+ years old. Not sure if you'll need the white plastic fuel clip but just in case part numbers listed below. I think there's at least 3 listed on Etka. Most Corrado's have option (A) fitted I think, but the VR6 can also have option (C) fitted also. (A) Part number of fuel clip is 1H0 201 449 (clip can hold x4 = 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes) 1988 onwards, fitted to MK2/3/4/5/6 Golfs, Corrado's (B) Part number of fuel clip is 191 201 449 (clip can hold = x2 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes and x2 3/16 brake pipe. 1985 to roughly 1992 mainly for MK2 Golf. (C) Part number 1H0 201 449A (clip can hold up to = X3 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes. From 1992 onwards. Si
  7. No worries. According to the Bentley manual the torque setting for the oil pressure switches is 25 Nm (18 ft Ib) Photo image from the Bentley manual attached below. Si
  8. Hello there, I think it's number (1)** in the attached Etka photo image, also you could use the first number (2)** that's listed, BUT YOU'LL HAVE TO DOUBLE CHECK THE PRESSURE RATING BEFORE PURCHASING, as they can sometimes range from 0.25, 0.3 and 0.4 Bar. Yours I think is the 0.3 Bar one BROWN, but you can get them in colours white or red, but like I say you'll have to double check the pressure before purchasing one. Also I've listed below all the oil pressure and temperature sensors, that are used on the 4 cyl Corrado engine's on the cylinder head and engine block areas. (1) ** Low oil pressure switch set at 0.25 or can be 0.4 Bar (blue) or set at 0.3 Bar (brown) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 028 919 081H (2) ** Low oil pressure switch set at 0.3 Bar (white) or can be (red) sometimes. Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 056 919 081 (2) High oil pressure switch set at 1.6 to 2.0 Bar (white) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 056 919 081C (2) Oil pressure switch set at 1.2 to 1.6 Bar (black) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 068 919 081D (2) Oil pressure switch set at 0.75 to 1.0 Bar (grey) Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 068 919 081C (8) Coolant temperature sender (mainly for KR and 9A engines) Part number 049 919 501 All the above oil pressure switches and the coolant temp use the same sealing washer (9) Part number N0138115 (21) Oil pressure switch for oil gauge (large cylindrical type) Set at 1.8 bar (black) Double spade/nut contacts. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 035 919 561A Normally fitted to oil filter housing. (21) Oil pressure switch for oil gauge (large cylindrical type) range from 0 bar up to 10 bar. Single spade contact. Thread 10mm X 1mm Part number 535 919 561B Normally fitted to oil filter housing. (22) Oil temperature sensor Part number 049 919 563A (22) Oil temperature sensor Part number 1H0 919 563 Hope this helps Si
  9. If that Golf isn't the holy grail then I don't know what is 🏆 I bet the person who purchases that will be down the pub in the next few months, and say to their mates, "guys I've found a superb barn find" Oh yeah don't tell me it's only done 50K "no only done 738 miles " WHAT 😱 I would love to be a fly on the wall for that one 😂😆 Si
  10. The link that Jim kindly loaded up in his above post doesn't work, so I've managed to find it. Please find Jim's link below just in case anyone needs the info from it. Si
  11. Hi Toby, thanks for sorting this it's much appreciated 👍 Si
  12. Hi Hasan, as the other guys have said if it could be made out of stainless, that would be amazing 👍 Si
  13. Thanks took me a while to make the new piece the right shape, as it's curved underneath the sill which was also corroded on the back, so wanted it to be one piece rather then welded together in small bits. I suppose I could have patched it but I decided to cut all the rust out that I could see, and weld in fresh clean metal. Good to hear you've found a place to work on your car and close to where it is 👍 Si
  14. I've just found these photos online that may be of help, but it's pretty much what Fendervg has mentioned above, your best bet is to remove the seat, rather then trying to do it in situ. First photo shows the seat completely removed, and highlighted in yellow writing, regarding the anchor bolt to remove. Second photo is from VW Etka look at item 5, that I think is the bracket that the seat belt stalk is bolted to. Hope this helps Si
  15. Yeah it's pretty much as Keyo has mentioned. Plus the sill is a box section same as the main chassis, so any rust hole in this is considered dangerous, including rear axle beam, front subframe, front cross member support beam, Plus any rust hole within 30cm of any main body structure, or suspension mount / seat mount, seat belt mount, engine/gearbox mounts will all fail the MOT. To be honest I'm in the same boat as you PFNSHT, my rear sill lower arch has gone on both sides of my Corrado, I've rebuilt the left side, but still got the right side to do. First photo is the left side rear sill lower arch I rebuilt/repaired. Second photo is the right side that is corroded through that I'll sort out soon. This will fail the MOT as it's within 30cm of the rear axle beam suspension bush/mount, plus the corroded area is part of the sill box section. Si 👍
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