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vw rule

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vw rule last won the day on December 21 2013

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About vw rule

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  • Birthday 08/09/1976


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  1. As Fendervg has mentioned regarding the crank sensor, if this sensor fails it can result in no spark. The crank sensor I think as Fendervg has said is attached to engine block, it's on the front side behind or under the oil filter area, think it pulsates off the toothed ring which is moulded/made to crankshaft, close to flywheel end of crank. Regarding the distributor the safest way to remove it is to set your engine to TDC, once engine is timed up the rotor arm should be pointing to number 1 HT lead on dizzy cap, plus ideally rotor arm to be inline with the small notch cut out mark on the top side edge of distributor. Also you can use tipex or small chisel to make an in-line mark where the dizzy sits against cylinder head, just so you know then what position your dizzy was in (mark the dizzy and cylinder head where they both meet) Yes your coil should have the one HT lead coming from it (The King Lead) which goes to centre terminal socket of dizzy cap. So just to clarify you don't have any spark at all from your coil ? Si
  2. Oh ok mate I presumed the later type VR6 with the full coil pack only has the crank sensor, I didn't think the early type with distributor had one. Si 👍
  3. Hello there, as your VR6 has a distributor it won't have a crank sensor, so the ECU needs a signal to tell it that the engine is rotating, plus confirmation of ignition spark which it gets partly from the Hall sensor I think, which is inside distributor it's what the 3 pin plug is connected to on the side of dizzy, plus it's semi connected to the ignition coil. If the Hall sensor has burnt out then the engine possibly may not start up, as no signal to ECU. If the ignition coil has gone then engine definitely won't start up. According to the Corrado Bentley manual, it says with ignition switched off remove the 3 pin connector plug from distributor, using a multimeter set at 20volts connect the leads to the outer terminals i.e (pin 1 and pin 3) switch ignition on you should see a minimum reading of 4.5volts or higher, if no voltage then could be wiring fault or a fuse blown or a problem with ECU ? Hall sensor terminals: (has 3 pins) Pin 1 = Earth (-) brown/black wire goes to terminal/pin 33 of the main 42 terminal/pin round engine harness plug. Pin 2 = Signal/pulse wire to ECU goes to terminal/pin 21 of the main 42 terminal/pin round engine harness plug, then from main round harness plug goes to terminal 44 of ECU white/red wire Pin 3 = Power (+) black/yellow wire *********************************** The other thing to check is your ignition coil, if that has died then your Corrado 100% won't start up. Looks like the coil has a 3 pin connector plug, and is partly connected to ECU. Pin 1 = Earth (-) brown wire this goes to terminal 6 of the 42 terminal round main engine harness plug, Pin 2 = signal/pulse wire black/red wire goes to terminal 8 of ECU Pin 3 = power (+) black wire only powered when ignition is on or cranking engine over. Also is partly connected to terminal 38 of ECU You should have battery voltage between pins 1 & 3 of the 3 pin connector plug for coil with ignition switched on. (Multimeter set at 20 volts) Also on the coil there should be two contacts marked as (1) and (15) (1) and (15) = Primary. (15) and king lead round socket (4) = Secondary. Measuring between (1) and (15) you should have primary residence of 0.5 to 0.7 ohms. Measuring between (15) and king lead socket (4) you should have secondary resistance of 3000 to 4000 ohms. The Bentley manual says if above readings are not within range or not obtained, to disconnect the battery earth lead, and remove coil and repeat test. Regarding the coil you should have continuity between the terminals something like 7 to 8 ohms, or your multimeter should bleep to confirm you have continuity. Also I think you can possibly check the signal/pulse operation is working, by measuring between pin 1 (-) and pin 2 (pulse) you should see pulses on your multimeter in volts, or I think you can use an LED pulse tester to check operation. hope this helps si
  4. Thanks Chris much appreciated 👍 Si
  5. In the past I've had cheap rotor arms that didn't last long at all, I was told they came from the same faulty batch, not saying your distributor cap is from a faulty batch but could be a possibility. Did you replace it with the same brand as the old one ? Or is it OEM ? I'd check your ignition timing is within correct specification using a timing gun, because if it's out it can cause the engine to ping if the ignition timing is too advanced, which can cause other issues. As already mentioned if the distributor shaft is lose it can cause problems with the cap sometimes. The other thing is your coil and HT leads, if you have problems/faults with them it can sometimes cause issues with distributor cap, but not always. If the coil is faulty or the ignition amplifier module, it can sometimes result in the spark damaging the distributor cap prematurely. Or like I say could be a cheapish cap that just can't last as long as OEM ? Hope this helps Si
  6. Yeah I've just had a quick look also, it does look like a decent Corrado, there's not many around now with under 100k miles on the clock, the mileage is 74,274 with full service history. According to the site there's been 12 bids on it, current bid is £4350 on 25 February at 10:28pm with 6 days to go until action ends. Si
  7. Great looking Corrado's there in the photo's 👍 Si
  8. I spoke to Julian or Chris I think in sales at VW Heritage back in 2018, made enquiries about the left side one as it was listed on VW Classic Parts site, also asked regarding the right side one which wasn't and possibly still isn't listed on their site, was told that it is available and looked like Classic had remade them back in 2017/18, also was told there's early and late type air guides, as they had them listed for G60 including the air duct guide tube/s. Might still be worth giving Heritage a call just in case, other than that it's like what Keyo has said could be obsolete again. Hope this helps Si
  9. Fuel accumulator bracket like I say has since been moved back in a more central position that fits much better. I'll upload new photos of how it looks now. I was so busy with work last year just didn't have the time to complete it. Si
  10. This is what I got made, this is a photo from late 2018 but the fuel accumulator bracket was too far forward, so has since been moved back as it was too close to rear axle bush bracket. Si
  11. Yeah I know they're not cheap. Si
  12. Hello mate, yes I managed to get one made by a fabricator I know who made it out of alloy. Cheers for the link I'll have a look at their website 👍 Si
  13. The above is a photo of my old plastic fuel swirl pot that has seen better days really. Thanks to Toby we can upload photos again 👍 Si
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